A near-perfect blend of Mediterranean, European and Middle Eastern influences, Tel Aviv is a city where the contradictions create a vibrancy and variety that keep things exciting right round the clock
Tel Aviv, the first modern Hebrew city, was founded as a garden suburb of the historical city of Jaffa in 1909, and grew so quickly that it absorbed its sister city in the 1970s. With its unique Bauhaus architecture imported by Jewish refugees from Germany in the 1930s, its wide, green boulevards and long, sandy beaches, Tel Aviv is first and foremost a city of atmosphere – the beating heart of a metropolitan area of three million people that makes up Israel’s cultural and commercial centre. But Tel Aviv is really the sum of its parts, a mosaic of small neighbourhoods where history and modernity mingle and merge.
Rothschild Boulevard
Rothschild Boulevard is the centre of the city’s outdoor social scene. With its beautiful ficus trees, wooden benches lining its middle, and the Bauhaus architecture along its sides, Rothschild is perfect for an evening stroll. Start at the northern end, by the Habimah National Theatre and the Mann Auditorium, which is home to the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra. If musical director Zubin Mehta is in town, try getting a ticket to hear one of the world’s best-known orchestras, founded in the 1940s by maestro Arturo Toscanini.
A few blocks down, at the corner of Mazeh Street, you’ll find Beit Engel (constructed in 1933), the city’s first Bauhaus building. Though part of a collection of buildings in the international style established by famed German architect Walter Gropius, this is one of a kind. In 2003 UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site (a free tour of the boulevard, called ‘Bauhaus: The White City’, leaves from Rothschild 46 every Saturday at 11am). While you’re admiring the view at the corner of Mazeh, pop over to a small brick kiosk simply called Take Away On Rothschild. Pick up a cup of coffee and take a seat on one of the benches like a real local for a good look at the passing parade of strollers.
Rothschild is also home to some of Tel Aviv’s finest culinary institutions. On a narrow pathway just off the boulevard is Dita (Rothschild 45; tel. (0)3 560 4222), a popular 24-hour magnet for Israelis. A little to the west, where Nachmani Street meets Ahad Ha’am Street, is Café Noir (43 Ahad Ha’am; tel. (0)3 566 3018), a mid-scale bistro best known for its fantastic schnitzel and mashed potatoes. A well hidden pearl nearby, parallel to Yehuda Halevi Street, is Joz v’Luz (51 Yehuda Halevi Street; tel. (0)3 560 6385). Every dish that comes out of this charming fusion kitchen has a personal touch and the vintage design, soft, jazzy soundtrack and reasonable prices will make you feel right at home.
Neve Tzedek
Founded in 1887, this is the oldest neighbourhood in Tel Aviv and one of the city’s true gems. Almost 120 years on it has become a fascinating blend of quaint surroundings, trendy boutiques and cafés, with two cultural magnets – the Suzanne Dellal Center (5 Yehieli Street; tel. (0)3 510 5656), which was founded in 1989 and is now home to the renowned Batsheva Dance Company, and the Nahum Gutman Museum (21 Rokach Street; tel. (0)3 516 1970), which contains the work of one of Israel’s most famous painters, who died in 1980.
Neve Tzedek’s main artery is Shabazi Street, where you’ll find jewellery designer Ayala Bar (36 Shabazi Street; tel. (0)3 510 0082). Bar’s handcrafted necklaces, bracelets and hairpins combine glass beads, crystals and rhinestones. Further along is Anat Reed’s boutique (15 Shabazi Street; tel.
(0)3 516 8262). Her feminine, almost sculptural approach to fabric has made Reed an upcoming star of Tel Aviv’s fashion scene. Your next stop should be Mizo (51 Shabazi Street; tel. (0)3 616 4105), where Inbal BenZaken’s comfortable, clean-cut designs for men and women display strong Asian influences.
A perfect restaurant in which to regain your strength is Nana Bar (1 Ahad Ha’am Street; tel. (0)3 516 1915). This well-designed space has an antique feel and a romantic atmosphere that complements the kitchen, which blends Mediterranean flair with French expertise.
Florentine
On the south side of the city, a little way off the usual tourist track, lies the hip neighbourhood of Florentine. In the daytime, Florentine is still a busy industrial area filled with factories. As soon as the sun goes down, however, it wakes up and becomes one of Tel Aviv’s coolest nightspots.
A great place to get into the groove is Lenny’s (7 Vital Street; tel. (0)3 518 6637). A happening café in the daytime, at night Lenny’s turns into a local favourite, the perfect starting point for a night out. Get a taste of rock ’n’ roll at Satchmo (6 Vital Street; tel. (0)5 232 8 4800). This cosy two-level bar has a homely feel to it and with 50 kinds of whisky on offer it’s a great spot for a drink. Florentine is also home to Tel Aviv’s biggest club, Haoman 17 (88 Abarbanel Street; tel. 03 681 3636), which hosts sets by Israel’s hottest DJs. Bugsy (26 Florentine Street; tel. 03 681 3138) is a good place for a late-night munch or a nightcap. This bistro bar offers a nice twist on local cuisine, with a menu that ranges from eggplant parmesan to Yemenite beef soup.
The Beach
In summer it often seems like Tel Aviv’s entire population flocks to the sandy shores on the city’s Mediterranean coastline – even in winter, the beachfront plays a major role in city life. Plus it’s still warm enough in winter to take time out and soak up some sun. Walk along the Herbert Samuel Seaside Promenade in the morning, and you might see a group of hardy elders practicing yoga on the sand. If you’re out for an evening stroll, stop for a drink at Mike’s Place (86 Herbert Samuel; tel. 03 510 0869), a classic American-style music venue with a constant party atmosphere that makes it a favourite with locals and tourists. On the beach itself, try Manta Ray (Almah Beach; tel. 03 517 4773), a fish restaurant famous for its fantastic Mediterranean mezze of tapas-sized appetisers.
Jaffa
The latest conquerors of this ancient peninsula are the tourist attractions, shops and restaurants lining its narrow, cobblestoned lanes. One of the best is the Yoezer Wine Bar (2 Ish Habira Street; tel. 03 683 9915) for memorable (but pricey) culinary delights. Try the crodo, a veal tartar with truffles, or stop in for brunch on Fridays and Saturdays. You should also visit Jaffa Flea Market, where an antique – whether genuine or fake – might catch your eye.
While there, you should take the opportunity for some inexpensive but authentic eats at Pua (3 Rabbi Yohanan Street; tel. 03 682 3821), or at Dr Shakshuka (3 Beit Eshel Street; tel. 03 518 6560), which boasts a ‘doctorate’ in Libyan-style food and takes its name from a traditional, spicy combination of eggs and
Hotels in Tel Aviv
■ Almah Beach
Dan Panorama Hotel (Charles Clore Park,
tel. (0)3 520 2552)
Situated right on Almah Beach, this luxurious hotel boasts five restaurants and two swimming pools.Double rooms from €139 per night including breakfast.
■ Neve Tzedek
David InterContinental Hotel (12 Kaufman Street, tel. (0)3 795 1111)
Overlooking the winding streets of Neve Tzedek, the David Intercontinental commands fantastic views of the Mediterranean. Double rooms from €212 per night including breakfast.
■ Jaffa
Old Jaffa Hostel and Guest House (Amiad 13 Street, tel. (0)3 682 2370)
A beautifully restored Ottoman building in the heart of old Jaffa, recently voted one of the best budget hotels in the world. Ideal for those travelling on a budget. Double rooms with private bathroom from €35 per night. Dormitories with shared bathrooms from €9 per night.
■ Rothschild Boulevard
Hotel De La Mere (62 Hayarkon Street, tel. (0)3 510 0011)
Situated a four minute taxi ride from Rothschild Boulevard, this is an intimate boutique hotel where every room is furnished according to the principles of feng shui. Double rooms from €87 per night including breakfast.
Lumière sur Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv, première ville ultra-moderne d’Israël, a été fondée comme la banlieue verte de la cité historique de Jaffa en 1909. Son essor a été si rapide qu’elle a rapidement absorbé la vieille cité portuaire dans les années 1970. Avec sa concentration unique d’architecture moderniste de style Bauhaus importée par des réfugiés venus d’Allemagne durant les années 1930, ses grands boulevards fleuris et ses longues plages de sable, Tel Aviv dégage une atmosphère saisissante. Elle offre aussi des contrastes inattendus, avec ses multiples facettes, mosaïque de quartiers où se rencontrent tradition et modernité.
Le Boulevard Rothschild se situe au centre de la vie sociale de la ville. En descendant quelques rues, au coin de Mazeh Street, vous tomberez sur le premier bâtiment construit dans le style Bauhaus, Beit Engel (érigé en 1933). Rothschild vous permettra aussi de découvrir certaines grandes institutions gastronomiques de Tel Aviv comme Dita, Café Noir et Joz v’Luz. Pour revenir aux délices culinaires, ne manquez surtout pas Manta Ray un restaurant de poissons sur la plage même d’Almah, très réputé pour ses entrées tapas.
Allez faire un tour dans le Neve Tzededk, autre fleuron de la capitale. Vous apprécierez le mélange sans transition de boutiques tendances et de cafés dans l’un des plus anciens quartiers de Tel Aviv. Dans l’artère principale, Shabazi Street, vous trouverez des bijouteries et des boutiques de créateurs locaux.
Plus loin vers le sud, un peu en dehors des circuits touristiques habituels, découvrez le quartier branché de Florentine, où se trouve le plus grand club de Tel Aviv, 17 Haoman.
Et bien entendu, une visite de Tel Aviv ne serait pas tout à fait complète sans une promenade dans les innombrables ruelles étroites de Jaffa. Faites une halte au Wine Bar Yoezer renommé pour sa cuisine succulente et au marché aux puces, faites le plein de cadeaux avant de renter au pays.
Tel Aviv in de kijker
Tel Aviv, de eerste moderne Hebreeuwse stad, werd in 1909 gesticht als een groene buitenwijk van de historische stad Jaffa. Ze groeide zo snel dat Jaffa in de jaren 1970 werd geabsorbeerd. Met de unieke Bauhaus architectuur, die in de jaren 1930 uit Duitsland werd geïmporteerd door Joodse vluchtelingen, de brede en groene lanen en de lange zandstranden, is Tel Aviv een stad met een unieke sfeer. Maar het is ook de som van vele delen, een mozaïek van kleine wijken, waar geschiedenis en moderniteit op een merkwaardige manier samensmelten.
Het centrum van het sociale buitenleven is Rothschild Boulevard. Een paar blokken verderop, op de hoek van Mazeh Street, staat het eerste Bauhaus gebouw van de stad, Beit Engel (gebouwd in 1933). Rothschild is ook de thuisbasis van een aantal van de fijnste culinaire instellingen van Tel Aviv, zoals Dita, Café Noir en Joz v’Luz. Een aanrader is ook Manta Ray, een visrestaurant op Almah Beach, dat bekend staat voor zijn verrukkelijke tapa’s.
Neve Tzededk is de oudste wijk in Tel Aviv, een grillig geheel met trendy boetieks en cafés. De belangrijkste ader is Shabazi Street, waar veel juweliers en designwinkels gevestigd zijn.
Meer naar het zuiden, ietwat buiten de normale toeristische trajecten, ligt de hippe wijk Florentine, waar de grootste club van Tel Aviv is gevestigd, de Haoman 17. Een bezoek aan Tel Aviv is niet compleet zonder te gaan kuieren in de smalle kasseistraatjes van Jaffa. Hou halt in de Yoezer Wine Bar voor memorabele gastronomie of bezoek de vlooienmarkt van Jaffa om souvenirs in te slaan.
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