Our round up of favourite restaurants from the Brussels Airlines network
Text Sudi Piggott
Francis Paniego at Hotel Marqués de Riscal SPAIN
1 Carre Torrea, Elciego, tel. +34 945 180880
Driving south from Bilbao past forests, stone churches and hilltop medieval villages, the splashy, avant-garde Frank Gehry-created architecture of Marqués de Riscal’s new wine-themed hotel is an exhilarating landmark seemingly sprouting from the vineyards. It’s a dramatic swirl of pink and gold titanium and silver stainless steel suggestive of the twisted foil discarded from an open bottle of Rioja. Expectations of the gourmet restaurant interior are high, but apart from curvaceous red walls and some dramatic yet unforgiving lighting, the dining room is rather too cool and self-conscious.
Fortunately, the food is another matter. The chef is Francis Paniego, the first in Rioja to win a Michelin star (for his restaurant Echaurren in Ezcaray, a 45-minute drive away). He’s worked in the kitchens of renowned Spanish chefs Ferran Adrià and Juan Mari Arzak and favours cooking at low temperatures – the pearly flakes of his hake confit on roast peppers are sublime – and devising all manner of unexpected re-interpretations of classic Riojan dishes. The tomato tartare with white garlic is bursting with sweet fruity flavours, there’s a wonderfully frothy, light take on the region’s signature vegetable soup, menestra, and Paniego’s legendary airy croquetas, decadently filled with jamón ibérico de bellota, are unforgettable. Only the meatballs on truffle potato puree taste less than remarkable. Finish with cameros cheese with confit of apples, a savoury Spanish take on Welsh rarebit, or the suitably quirky honey ice cream. From the wholly Marqués de Riscal wine list, the best treat is the dark, fruity Baron de Chirel, as dramatic as the region itself. Expect to pay around €150 for dinner for two including wine. SP
Pick of the month
Foodie corner
Surprise your loved one with a gastronomic getaway at well-known French chef Alain Ducasse’s boutique hotel in Provence.
Domaine des Andéols is perched high on a hill surrounded by olive groves and lavender fields about one and a half hours from Marseilles and is the perfect hideaway for a romantic escape. It’s also the ideal location for a gastronomic getaway, as you can get your hands dirty in the hotel kitchen learning to cook local specialities under the guidance of Albert Boronat, who trained under Ducasse himself. And when you’ve had enough of that, you can tuck into Provencal cuisine in the magical ambience of the hotel restaurant.
Prices for the Provencal cooking package (which is available from March) start at €518 for two people; this includes two nights’ accommodation in a junior suite as well as a cooking class for two, three-course lunch with accompanying wines, dinner for two, olive oil tasting and massage for two. Contact the hotel on +33 (0)4 9075 5063 or visit domainedesandeols.com for more information.
Bio Lounge BELGIUM
116–120 Rue de l’Enseignement, Brussels,
tel. +32 (0)2 218 5400, www.biolounge.be
One of the latest additions to the Belgian capital’s culinary scene, all the dishes at Bio Lounge are prepared using fresh, seasonal ingredients purchased from organic farms. There’s a strong environmentally friendly theme featured throughout the restaurant, with napkins and take-away lunch boxes all made from recycled and biodegradable materials, while produce such as coffee, tea, chocolates, olive oil and vinegar are from fair trade sources.
The restaurant is fast developing a reputation as a popular lunchtime spot with efficient service and plenty of healthy options on the menu. The generous salad servings are ample for a main course, but there’s also plenty of more filling dishes, such as tasty French tarts, delicious vegetable quiches or the soup of the day. The guacamole chicken sandwich is a popular option, while fish lovers should try the sublime tuna wrap. For those with a sweet tooth there’s a good selection of light puddings and cakes, and there’s plenty of healthy detox drinks, from smoothies to green teas.
The décor is clean and minimalist yet comfortable, with cool, modern furnishings. A two-course meal for two will cost a very reasonable €30. IF
Gustibus ITALY
269 Via Lorenteggio, Milan,
tel. +39 02 415 0556
This new eatery on Milan’s Via Lorenteggio may be business-minded – it’s closed on weekends and opens early for breakfast mid-week – but it’s simply too good to remain the sole preserve of the pinstripes, with its modish, dapper interior and menu that balances local traditions with a more progressive outlook. It’s not the most dynamic of locations – situated in a building that was once home to the taxman – but it’s been converted into a striking space; part American diner, part Armani showroom, with a veranda overlooking the city’s suburban green spaces.
For all its stylish trappings, however, there’s an informal air and a keenness to please – and such enthusiasm is equally evident in the kitchen, where excellently named chef Giuseppe Zen presides. Diligently sourced produce is proudly presented, from the simple (a short antipasti list includes prosciutto crudo and plenty of treats for cheese connoisseurs) to the sophisticated (a delicate herb-encrusted loin of lamb, cod alla veneziana). The odd Gallic influence creeps in, while (naturally enough) a darn-near perfect risotto milanese is joined on the menu by a selection of regional greatest hits (carnivores are directed to the farfalle with beef ragu and the platter of kidneys, while vegetarians might have to make do with toying with a nice salad). Do try and leave room for a dessert; the three-chocolate mousse is not to be missed, and the celebrated tarte tatin is equally memorable. It’s probably best not to hit the shops on Via Monte Napoleone straight afterwards; dinner will set you back €70 a head. MB
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