Helen Walsh
British writer Helen Walsh shot to fame in 2004 with the publication of her debut novel Brass. She divides her time between Liverpool and Mallorca, where she does much of her writing. She is currently finishing her second book, Hide, which is due to be released in 2008
01 When did you first visit Mallorca?
About five years ago, after reading George Sand’s scathing account of the island in A Winter in Mallorca. I was instantly smitten with her descriptions of wild, windswept terrains and the sluggish pace of life that so irked her. I visited Formentor soon after, situated on the rugged northern coast of the island, and was blown away by its beauty.
02 How often do you go back there?
Between four and six times a year, avoiding the months of July and August – although I’ve managed to source out a few secret pockets in the south of the island that remain impervious to tourism all year round.
03 Where do you stay when you do visit?
Whenever I go to Deià I stay at the Hotel Des Puig (Es Puig 4 Deia, tel. +34 971 639 409). It’s a beautiful, intimate family-run place, and the village of Deià boasts one of the best restaurants in Mallorca, Sa Vinya (Vinya Vella 6 baixos, tel. +34 971 639 500). But usually, if I’m writing, I hire a farmhouse just outside Cas Concos on the south of the island.
04 What’s your favourite part of the island?
Mallorca has so many different faces and I tend to have crushes rather than favouring one particular place. I love the wild, dramatic feel of the northern Tramuntura mountain range, but I also like the slovenly chug of life in the south-east.
05 What do you miss about Mallorca when you’re not there?
The intoxicating smell of pine forests and lemon and olive groves, the sheer simplicity of island life, the staggering coastal walks, and the freshness of the cuisine.
06 Where’s the best place to eat on the island?
If you’re staying in Cas Concos or nearby, you have to eat at Viena (Metge Obrador 12-13, tel. +34 971 84 22 90). It’s a beautiful restaurant that stays open all through the winter. The roadside cafés in Esporles, although they may not look much from outside, serve the most amazing bocadillos and zumo de naranjas. Stick to restaurants serving local cuisine and avoid anywhere that advertises its main menu in English.
07 Where’s the best beach on the island?
Cala Mondrago in the south-east, which is part of a protected national park. You can swim from one bay to the other, have grilled king prawns and a glass of Vina Sol at the beach bar, and then walk it off in the surrounding pine forests.
08 Where would you go on the island to see a great view?
The best view of Palma is to be had from Castell de Bellver. From a wooded hilltop you can see right over the city and the harbour. If you have a car, drive to the northern tip and look for signs for a mirador. Bar Tramuntura in Fornalutx offers staggering sunset views from its terrace, but darkness falls hard and swift and the mountain road can be difficult to negotiate in the dark.
09 Where’s the best place to go for a drink in Palma?
The best bars for beer, tapas and people watching are Bar Bosch on Placa Rei Joan Carles and Gotic on Placa Llotja.
10 Where’s the best place in Palma to soak up some culture?
Take a stroll around the old town to the back of the cathedral and soak up the shambolic splendour of Palma’s Renaissance mansions and the Baños Árabes, or Arab Baths – the latter offers one of the few genuine reminders of the Moorish presence in Palma. Be sure to take a picnic in the quaint gardens outside.
11 You lived in Barcelona for a while. How does the city compare to Palma?
Both cities have a distinctly gothic feel and are dominated by an imposing cathedral. The use of Catalan over Spanish is also favoured by the Mallorquins. However, Palma lacks the colourful, dangerous spice of Barcelona, the bars don’t bustle and thrive in the same manic way, and the city shuts down earlier.
12 What’s your favourite memory of the island?
Drinking brandy in the Hotel Es Turó in Ses Salines (tel +34 971 64 95 31) by a roaring fire with the love of my life while a winter storm hammered the windows.
13 You spend a lot of time in Mallorca writing. Where do you draw your inspiration from?
The shifting inflections of the landscape. The north and east coasts are inspirational in that they are capable of producing extreme emotions in me, but the placid planes of the south-east afford me the peace of mind that enables me to put pen to paper.
14 What are you working on at the moment?
I’ve just finished my second novel, and I’m looking forward to having my life back and seeing the world again.
15 What advice would you give a person visiting Mallorca for the first time?
Steer away from package holidays and resorts – they’re great for families and hen parties, but not if you’re looking for an authentic slice of island life. Book a finca or hotel rural through mallorcaonline.com. If you lack the confidence to drive abroad make sure your finca or hotel is in walking distance of the village or beach, otherwise you’ll be stranded. Deià is a great first-time location as it has a beach, plenty of restaurants, café bars and walks all on its doorstep.
16 Which other European cities do you like to visit, and why?
I toured Belgium last year with the Saint Amour literary festival and fell in love with Antwerp and Bruges.
17 Which book do you wish you’d written?
Jean Genet’s The Thief’s Journal. It was Genet’s description of the lowlife that thronged seamy Barrio Chino that inspired me to go and live in Barcelona when I was 16.
18 It’s been said that everyone has one book in them. What advice would you give to people who want to write?
Write from the heart, and write the book in its entirety – only then should you think about the business of agents and publishing.
19 What would your motto be?
If in doubt, jump.
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