Where better to enjoy a soak than the ‘City of Spas’? asks Nick Boulos as he unwinds in Budapest’s thermal baths
There’s nothing worse than finding yourself in hot water. Unless, of course, you’re in the Hungarian capital. Dozens of thermal baths can be found in Budapest, a city that has enjoyed a love affair with spas for nearly 2,000 years, and from the moment you dip your toe in the water, it becomes clear why.
Grand surroundings steeped in history, revitalising treatments and the chance to experience a slice of local life is what awaits visitors to these wondrous palaces of bathing. The Celtic tribes nicknamed the region ak-luk, which translates to ‘abundant water’, back in the first century when they discovered the area’s precious asset.
But what makes Budapest such a geothermal hotspot? The Earth’s crust around the city and the Carpathian Basin is extremely thin, meaning the district is positively bubbling with natural springs.
But for Hungarians, an afternoon splashing around in the wickedly warm waters isn’t so much an indulgence but rather a matter of healthy living. The natural springs are extraordinarily rich in a number of minerals including calcium and magnesium, all of which have healing qualities. It’s believed that regular soaks can help, or even cure, all manner of problems including respiratory, dermatological and digestive disorders.
Beyond that, the bath houses also act as social meeting places where family and friends gather to catch up and discuss the issues of the day.
But with so many different establishments offering completely different experiences, choosing the perfect one can be a daunting dilemma for a spa novice, so use our guide to the very best of Budapest’s gyógyfürdõs (that’s ‘thermal baths’ to you and me).
Best of the baths
Széchenyi Fürdõ XIV Állatkerti körút 11, tel. (0)1 363 3210.
With an incredible 12 thermal baths and three swimming pools, Széchenyi is the largest complex of its kind in Europe. Its majestic beauty and ornate surroundings create a real sense of opulence without ever feeling pretentious.
The yellow neo-baroque building and various statues perched on the water’s edge overlook the outdoor pools. Groups of elderly men often converge for a game of chess in the shallow end of the 34°C pool (feel free to bring your own board if you fancy a game) while those feeling more active get their heads in a spin in the nearby whirlpool.
Meanwhile, indoors, the labyrinth of medicinal pools are smaller and more relaxing than their colossal open-air cousins. Each has a different temperature, and hopping from bath to bath will do wonders for your circulation.
Those feeling brave can also see how they fair in the cold shock pool and the hottest steamroom in the city, or simply relax in the mixed sauna.
Open daily from 6am to 10pm. Certain treatments are only available particular times. Men and women are permitted to bathe together.
Danubius Health Spa Resort Margit-sziget
H-1138, Budapest, Margitsziget, tel. (0)1889 4700
Indulgence is the order of the day at this contemporary and exquisite retreat, nestled in the northern end of Margaret Island, which prides itself on providing the very best therapeutic and relaxation techniques anywhere in the city.
It boasts all the facilities, amenities and extravagance that you’d expect from a leading spa. Be sure to try the healing mudpacks, which use natural resources from Lake Heviz, the largest thermal lake in the world, and have a dip in the scorching 40°C pool.
If that wasn’t enough, it also specialises in medical procedures designed to help run-down guests get the spring back in their step. Balneotherapy, a range of treatments which incorporates thermal water is available, as is, rather worryingly, electrotherapy.
Nestled in the northern corner of Margaret Island overlooking lush parkland, this sanctuary is perfect for couples in need of some luxury.
What’s more, men and women are free to bathe together, unlike most other establishments in the city.
Open daily from 6.30am to 9.30pm
Gellért Gyógyfürdõ
XI Kelenhegyi út 4, tel. (0)1 466 6166
This is not only one of the most famous and frequently visited of all the spas in the city, but one of the most atmospheric too. The baths are part of the historic Gellért Hotel, conveniently located opposite the Liberty Bridge on the Buda side of the Danube River.
Crowds don’t only flock to Gellért for some thermal rest and relaxation, the stunning art nouveau decor and architecture also has strong pulling power. Magnificent pillars form an elegant perimeter around the main pool; it’s soon easy to see why the experience has been compared to bathing in a cathedral.
The 50-metre swimming pool is Gellért’s only communal area, and like most thermal baths in the country, men and women must enjoy the plunge pools separately. The men’s bathing area is easily the superior thanks to the elaborate blue majolica tiling, mosaics and the grand marble steps that lead into the inviting water.
Make the most of the other services on offer, too. The chamomile steam room and the foot massage, in particular, are popular.
Open Monday to Friday 6am to 7pm; Saturday and Sunday 6am to 5pm
Black Tulip
1065 Budapest, Révay U 14, tel. (0)1302 5577
In an age where men worry about wrinkles just as much as women, it’s good to know there’s somewhere that caters for the needs of those twenty-first century gentlemen.
Billed as a cosmetic salon for the ‘sophisticated’ male, the Black Tulip is a retreat that will transform even the most rugged men into prepped and preening beauties.
A wide range of pampering delights is on offer, including lava stone and mauri massages as well as manicures, paraffin rubs and an exfoliating scrub. But perhaps the biggest incentives for visitors are the revolutionary procedures available.
The latest technologies are used to maintain youthful and supple looks, and are said to produce amazing results. Popular choices include the Huber machine, which encourages complete exercise for all the body’s major muscle groups, improves posture and eliminates back pain; the Dermalife Cabin, the ultimate slimming and detoxifying treatment; and Oxy-Life, which aids the deepest layers of the skin using pure oxygen to leave it restored and regenerated.
The Black Tulip takes metrosexuality to a whole new level. Surely it won’t be long until David Beckham books himself in. Open daily from 10am to 8pm, except Monday (2am to 8pm) and Saturday (10am to 4pm).
Carry on bathing
Other baths worth dipping your toe into
Rudas Gyógyfürdõ
(I Dõbrentei tér 9, tel. (0)1 375 8378)
Built in 1566, and one of two original Turkish baths remaining, the centrepiece are the holes in the domed roof that allow rays of sunlight to filter down on to the traditional octagonal pool. Rudas has recently opened its doors to females on selected days of the week.
Luckás Gyógyfürdõ
(II Frankel Leó út 25-27)
It’s possible, but by no means compulsory, to actually drink the thermal water you bathe in here. Those who do insist it works a treat for gastroenterological problems.
Spa Aphrodite Health & Wellness Centre
(Erzsébet krt, 43-49, tel. (0)1 436 4100)
This Wellness Centre attracts families from far and wide. The children can amuse themselves in the pool while mum and dad enjoy an aromatherapy massage and a Dead Sea salt bath.
Dans le bain
Un séjour dans la capitale hongroise ne serait pas complet sans un bain dans ses sources thermales bouillonnantes. On trouve des douzaines de bains à Budapest, une ville qui entretient une longue relation d’amour avec les eaux thermales depuis près de 2 000 ans.
Mais pourquoi Budapest est-elle la seule métropole au monde si riche en eaux thermales? La croûte terrestre autour de la ville et du Bassin des Carpathes est extrêmement fine, et en conséquence l’environnement regorge de sources naturelles.
Pour les Hongrois, barboter une aprèsmidi entière dans les bassins ultra chauds tient plus d’un choix de vie saine que du simple plaisir complaisant. Les sources thermales sont extraordinairement riches en minéraux, dont principalement le calcium et le magnésium appréciés pour leurs vertus curatives.
Bien sûr, face à une telle abondance d’établissements différents, offrant chacun des expériences totalement uniques, le novice en matière de thermalisme trouvera peut-être difficilement son chemin. Voici donc un rapide aperçu des meilleurs bains de Budapest.
Széchenyi Fürdõ (XIV Állatkerti körút
11). Un des pus grands complexes thermaux en Europe avec ses somptueux 12 bassins à l’intérieur et ses trois piscines.
Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget (H-1138, Budapest, Margitsziget). Détente est le mot d’ordre dans cette retraite exquise et contemporaine, qui s’enorgueillit des techniques thérapeutiques et de relaxation les plus sophistiquées de toute la ville.
Gellért Gyógyfürdõ (XI Kelenhegyi út
4). L’un des bains les plus réputés et populaires de la ville. Celui qui offre aussi l’une des atmosphères les plus agréables.
Black Tulip (1065 Budapest, Révay U 14). Présenté comme un salon d’esthétique pour les mâles ‘sophistiqués’, le Black Tulip est un havre qui transformera même les hommes les plus rudes en super beautés.
Baden in Budapest
Wat zou een reisje naar de Hongaarse hoofdstad zijn zonder een ontspannend, heet bad? Boedapest koestert al bijna 2.000 jaar lang een stomende liefde voor kuuroorden. De stad is er dan ook rijkelijk van voorzien.
Hoe het komt dat Boedapest zo’n geothermisch centrum is? Omdat de aardkost onder de stad en het Karpatische bekken extreem dun is. De streek bruist dan ook van de natuurlijke springbronnen.
Maar Hongaren zien een middagje plonzen in het heerlijk warme water vooral als gezondheidstherapie. De natuurlijke bronnen zijn immers bijzonder rijk aan bepaalde mineralen, waaronder calcium en magnesium, die genezende eigenschappen bezitten.
Met zo veel verschillende badplaatsen met totaal uiteenlopende faciliteiten is het voor een kuuroordgroentje echter moeilijk kiezen. Daarom een kort overzicht van de beste kuuroorden van Boedapest.
Széchenyi Fürdõ (XIV Állatkerti körút
11). Met maar liefst 12 thermische baden en drie zwembaden is Széchenyi het grootste soortgelijke kuuroord in Europa.
Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget (H-1138, Budapest, Margitsziget). Intens genieten is de belangrijkste boodschap in dit eigentijdse en verfijnde oord. Het kan bovendien uitpakken met de beste therapeutische en relaxatietechnieken van de stad.
Gellért Gyógyfürdõ (XI Kelenhegyi út
4). Dit bijzonder sfeervolle adresje herbergt een van de bekendste en meest bezochte kuuroorden van de stad.
Black Tulip (1065 Budapest, Révay U 14). De Black Tulip staat bekend als een schoonheidssalon voor de ‘gesofisticeerde’ man. In dit oord wordt zelfs de ruigste bonk tot een zijdezachte en gladde schoonheid omgetoverd.
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