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24 hours in Brussels

Text Renée Cordes

Your essential guide to what to do, see, eat, and where to sleep in the Belgian capital during May

10:00 Sunday brunch is heavenly in the top-floor restaurant of the Musical Instruments Museum (2 Rue Montagne de la Cour, tel. (0)2 545 0130), especially on sunny days when views are spectacular or it’s balmy enough to dine on the terrace. For €15 per person, enjoy the buffet featuring a hot beverage, juice, all-you-can-drink champagne, pastries, crêpes and loads of other goodies. Afterwards, get a pair of headphones downstairs and stroll through one of Brussels’ best-loved museums, listening to a vast array of musical offerings played on thousands of instruments from around the world. The building, in the former Old England department store, is an architectural gem combining neo-classical and art nouveau influences.

12:00 Check out La Centre Électrique, or the European Centre for Contemporary Art (44 Place Sainte-Catherine, tel. (02) 279 6444), a wonderful new art space located in what had been Brussels’ first power plant in the early 19th century. There are some four to five exhibitions per year spotlighting Belgian and international artists working in visual arts and other disciplines. High ceilings give this no-frills place a very airy, loft-like feeling. Afterwards, get a spot of lunch at the nearby Thé-Toi et Mange (19 Rue de Flandre, tel. (0)2 513 5899), a very pleasant, down to earth little eater and tea shop that serves up small but satisfying soups, salads and sandwiches on toasted Poilâne bread (about €15 per person, including hot drink); they also do great desserts and high tea in the top-floor salon (€19) that includes a pastry, scone, mini smoked-salmon sandwiches, tea and juice.

14:00 Spend the afternoon taking in a concert at the Queen Elisabeth International Music Competition, a world-famous event that alternates each year between piano, music and voice. The 2007 version, from 6 May – 2 June, showcases the piano, and as always features performances by talented musicians who have completed their training and are on the verge of launching their international careers. Afternoon concerts, at either the Music Conservatory or the Palais des Beaux-Arts, kick off at 2.30pm, and then again at 7.30pm (tel. (0)2 213 4050, www.cmireb. be). Sports fans should check out ‘Only a Game?’ from 23 May, an interactive exhibition on football – brought to life through rare artefacts from Europe’s top sports museums – at the Royal Museums of Art and History (10 Parc du Cinquantenaire, tel. (0)2 737 7811). On 27 May, cheer on participants in the Brussels 20-km race, which kicks off at 3pm at the Cinquantenaire park, before winding its way through the city’s finest boulevards.

18:00 From 4-26 May, the KunstenFESTIVALdes Arts combines the best of French and Flemish avant-garde theatre, music, dance, film and performance art – including many original productions – featuring talent from around the world (tel. (0)2 219 0707). Alternatively, sample great wines at Chai & Bar Total Wine Experience in the Tour & Taxis complex (86C Avenue du Port, tel. (0)2 421 6080); it’s a combination store and tasting bar, with friendly and knowledgeable staff ready to answer all your questions.

20:00 Le Fourneau (8 Place Sainte-Catherine, tel. (0)2 513 1002) has quickly become a popular dining spot in the centre of town. Seated at a long counter facing the kitchen, customers observe chefs, under the guidance of Evan Triantopoulos, crafting unique tapas tasties priced according to weight. Bear in mind that it can fill up quickly since it doesn’t take reservations. If you’re in the mood for more traditional fare, head straight to Aux Armes de Bruxelles (13 Rue des Bouchers, tel. (0)2 511 5598), a lively temple of Belgian cuisine run by the Veulemans for some 85 years and always full. You can’t go wrong with the shrimp croquette, crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside, or the lobster waterzooi. When booking, request a table in the main room, which features semi-private booths evocative of train dining cars. Both restaurants have a ‘Bib Gourmand’ from Michelin, meaning good value for money.

22:00 Enjoy rock beats, electro vibes and other unique musical offerings at Les Nuits Botanique, a popular festival from 2-5 May showcasing rising international talents as well as established artists performing in a unique setting. This year’s line-up includes Gotan Project from France, and The Rakes and Good Shoes from the UK (236 Rue Royale, tel. (0)2 218 3732). From 25-27 May, the Brussels Jazz Marathon offers non-stop concerts, many of them free, at indoor and outdoor venues throughout the city; there’s even a free Jazzbus shuttle (www.brusselsjazzmarathon. be). Slumber in style at the five-star Hotel le Plaza (118-126 Blvd. Adolphe Max, tel. (0)2 278 0100), built in 1930 in the heart of Brussels’ cultural and historic district and completely renovated in 1996 (up to €350 for a double, with various packages available).

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