bthere: Inflight Magazine Brussels Airlines

With its maze of canals, waterside palazzos and medieval squares, Venice is an enchanting city that lures lovers by the gondola-load. But, as John Brunton divulges, closer inspection reveals a city that’s constantly renovating and re-inventing itself for the 21st century

The unique allure of Venice lies in its unchanging beauty: a city magically floating on the water which, at first glance, seems more medieval than 21st century. There are no cars, no pollution and hardly any noise. The shimmering waters of the lagoon are broken by an elegant gondola’s prow and the Grand Canal is lined with Baroque palaces, where you can imagine masked revellers dancing at carnival balls, as in the days of Casanova.

But a closer look reveals that this cluster of gilded islands is constantly changing. In June, artists from around the world converge here for the five-month International Art Exhibition, while in September Hollywood stars arrive to grace the world’s oldest film festival. Every Italian couturier has his chic boutique in Venice, while international designers are constantly innovating with traditional Murano glass. Most recently, inventive young chefs have been opening up fine-dining restaurants to give gourmets a chance to discover the wonderful variety of Venetian cuisine.

St Mark’s Square

Any tour of Venice must begin in the Piazza San Marco, one of the world’s grandest and most beautiful squares.

For the ultimate view over the city, arrive early to be first in the queue to go up the Campanile, the bell tower of the Basilica of St Mark, probably the richest, most eclectic church in Christendom, with magnificent frescoes and mosaics. Adjoining the church, the rulers of La Serenissima (‘The Serene City’) built their centre of government, the Doge’s Palace, and another architectural landmark, Antonio Palladio’s Church of St Giorgio.

But the Piazza isn’t just surrounded by monuments – nearly every side street is filled with tempting boutiques. In Calle Vallaresso and Via XXII Marzo, you’ll find every famous-name designer, from Gucci to Roberto Cavalli to Prada, while the nearby Frezzeria specialises more in Venetian treasures, such as antique glass at Paropamiso (Frezzeria 1701) and carnival masks at Venetia (Frezzeria 1286).

For a classic Venetian experience, have a cappuccino in Caffè Florian, on the Piazza, then try a Bellini at Harry’s Bar, where they were invented. To discover the more modern side of the city, check out Bacaro Lounge, a hip cocktail bar, or chill out to live jazz performances at the Bauer Hotel’s B Bar (Campo San Moise). You could also dine at Centrale Restaurant Lounge (Piscina Frezzeria 1659/B, tel. 041 296 0664), a stunning, futuristic-design restaurant, which is housed inside a 16th-century palazzo.

Rialto

The first settlers of Venice made their home on the high bank of a canal, the Rivo Alto, and called it Rialto. The grandiose Rialto Bridge, lined with tiny shops, is one of Venice’s most memorable sights and is still very much the bustling commercial heart of the city. What was once a grand bazaar for spices and precious objects from the Orient is now a bustling morning market that’s a paradise for foodies. Stalls sell swordfish and tuna, lobsters and crabs, wild mushrooms and baby artichokes, fresh pasta and local cheeses.

This is one of the few parts of the city where you don’t feel obliged to seek out museums or churches. Instead, let yourself get lost in narrow backstreets and tiny squares, discovering your own special caffè or osteria that isn’t in any guidebook. At night, the Rialto is one of the best places to eat out, especially in Campo San Giacometto, where Osteria Bancogiro (tel. 041 523 2061) serves a modern take on traditional cuisine. Nearby Naranzaria (tel. 041 724 1035) is a hipper locale, specialising in Mojitos and delicious sushi created by the resident Japanese-Brazilian chef, Akira. Both restaurants have romantic tables right at the edge of the Grand Canal, but be sure to reserve.

Accademia

The view from the Accademia Bridge, stretching over the Grand Canal as far as the white marble Salute Church, is one of the most sublime visions of Venice. At the foot of the bridge lies the Galleria dell’Accademia, housing a priceless collection of Titians, Tintorettos, Bellinis, Carpaccios and Canalettos – get there early to avoid long queues. This neighbourhood is also where you’ll find cutting-edge modern art, either in the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, for the likes of Picasso, Max Ernst and Kandinsky, or the Palazzo Grassi, home of the Francois Pinault Collection, which features avant-gardists like Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons.

Hidden away in the backstreets are some very fashionable boutiques. Take a look at delicate hand-printed silk and velvet designs at Tessuti di Helene (Calle della Chiesa 683) and highly original, funky glass jewellery and chandeliers at Studio Genninger (Calle del Traghetto). For lively bars and eating out, just head for Campo Santa Margherita, which comes alive with hundreds of fashionable young Venetians after dark. Don’t miss Il Caffè (also called Caffè Rosso), where you can sample a traditional local aperitif, the Spritz al Bitter – a mix of Campari, white wine and mineral water.

Cannaregio

The working-class neighbourhood of Cannaregio is rapidly turning into one of the city’s most happening areas. Wander around the ghetto, the ancient Jewish quarter, then visit the Ai Miracoli church, a tiny jewel of Renaissance architecture. Madonna dell Orto was the parish church of Tintoretto and seeing one of his masterpieces in the church he painted it for is an altogether different experience from visiting a museum. The Chiesa Sant’Alvise has spectacular frescoes by Tiepolo.

Cannaregio has a wealth of bacari (traditional hostelries), serving ciccheti, the local tapas, and some of the best are La Vedova (Ramo Ca’ d’Oro 3192), Al Bacco (Fondamenta delle Capucine 3054) and Al Timon (Fondamenta Ormesini 2754). At night, there’s a change of character, especially on the Fontamenta della Misericordia, with its jazz, salsa, restaurants and cool bars.

Lagoon

The Serenissima is just one island on the Venetian lagoon, so buy a go-as-you-please ticket for the vaporetto – Venice’s excellent water ‘buses’. First stop is San Michele, cemetery of Venice and the last resting place of Stravinsky, Diaghilev and Ezra Pound.

The boat then drops you off at Murano, renowned the world over for its glass production. Walk along the Fondamenta Vetrai for the chance to see master artisans blowing and shaping molten glass, and don’t miss a tour around the Venini factory (Fondamenta Vetrai 50, tel. 041 273 7211).

The vaporetto then carries on to either Burano – with its bright pastel fishermen’s cottages and lace-making – or Torcello, which boasts an amazing Byzantine cathedral. But for a traditional rustic meal, jump off at Mazzorbo, where Antica Trattoria alla Maddalena (tel. 041 730151) serves pasta with wild duck sauce.

Visions de Venise

La beauté de Venise est éternelle. Loin de toute pollution, loin du bruit, avec des canaux en guise de routes, une visite du Grand Canal flanqué de palais Baroques a tout d’un voyage dans le temps.

Ce serait cependant une erreur de croire que la ville n’a jamais changé. De l’art au stylisme et à la cuisine, Venise est au centre de nombreuses innovations.

Tout voyage à Venise doit commencer par la Piazza San Marco. Grimpez dans la tour du clocher de la basilique, le Campanile pour avoir un point de vue unique sur la ville. Ne manquez pas non plus la visite du Palais des Doges, et prenez le temps d’explorer les boutiques de luxe, dans les petites rues adjacentes. Vous tomberez sur tous les plus grands noms du stylisme dans la Calle Vallaresso et laVia XXII Marzo.

Autrefois, le Rialto Bridge a abrité un bazar oriental. Aujourd’hui c’est devenu un marché matinal, plein d’effervescence. Laissez votre plan de côté et partez à l’aventure, à travers l’enchevêtrement des rues du quartier. A la tombée du soir, Campo San Giacometto est l’un des meilleurs endroits où manger, pour sa vision moderne de la cuisine traditionnelle.

L’Accademia est le quartier des arts, anciens et nouveaux. Au pied du pont Accademia se trouve la Galleria dell’Accademia qui héberge une collection de Titiens et de Canalettos. Et au musée Peggy Guggenheim, l’on peut voir des oeuvres de Picasso et de Kandinsky.

Composez votre lunch avec des tapas locales, les ciccheti, dans le quartier de Cannaregio. Le soir, mettez-vous au diapason du jazz dès que le Fontamenta della Misericordia ouvre ses portes.

Si vous désirez explorer la Lagune, procurez-vous un billet ‘illimité’ pour le vaporetto et faites un saut sur toutes les îles, dont Murano connue pour son fameux verre, avant de terminer le circuit par un cocktail, au Lido.

Venetië in de kijker

Venetië is tijdloos mooi. Geen vervuiling, geen lawaai en smalle kanalen in plaats van drukke wegen. Een tocht op het Canal Grande met zijn barokke paleizen voert je terug in de tijd.

Vergis je echter niet. De stad evolueert wel degelijk. Kunst, mode, restaurants,… Venetië gonst van de innovatie.

Een bezoek aan Venetië begint natuurlijk op het Piazza San Marco. Beklim ’s ochtends vroeg de Campanile, de klokkentoren van de basiliek, en bewonder de stad. Verken naast klassiekers als het Dogenpaleis ook de winkeltjes in de zijstraten. In de Calle Vallaresso en de Via XXII Marzo heeft elke beroemde ontwerper een stek.

De Rialto-brug, ooit met oosterse bazaar, is nu elke ochtend een bedrijvige voedingsmarkt. Vergeet je stadsplan en zwerf gewoon door de wirwar van steegjes. ’s Avonds kan je heerlijk eten op de Campo San Giacometto. Je vindt er moderne interpretaties van de traditionele Italiaanse keuken.

De Accademia is dé plek voor oude en nieuwe kunst. Aan de voet van de Accademia-brug ligt de Galleria dell’Accademia met schilderijen van Titiaan en Canaletto. Picasso en Kandinsky kan je bewonderen in het Peggy Guggenheim Museum.

Kies tijdens de lunch voor lokale tapas, ciccheti, in Cannaregio en ga naar de Fondamenta della Misericordia voor een avondje jazz.

Om de Lagune te verkennen koop je een ticket voor de vaporetto. Hij doet alle eilanden aan, ook Murano met zijn glaswerk. Eindigen doe je uiteraard met een cocktail op het Lido.

Where to stay

St Mark’s

Palazzo Selvadego at the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal
San Marco 1332, tel. 041 520 0211, www.hotelmonaco.it

Hotel La Residenza
Campo Bandiere e Moro 3608, tel. 041 528 5315, www.venicelaresidenza.com

Novocento
Calle del Dose, San Marco 2683, tel. 041 241 765,
www.locandanovecento.biz

Hotel Locanda Fiorita and Ca’Morosini
Campiello Novo, San Marco 3457, tel. 041 523 4754, www.locandafiorita.com