Text Renée Cordes
Your essential guide to what to do, see, eat, and where to sleep in the Belgian capital during June
08:00 Start the day with breakfast at Falstaff (19 Rue Henri Maus, tel. (0)2 510 0550/54) which, upon request, will open its doors at 7:30am for made-to-order meals (croissants, eggs, bacon – the works), even for just one or two customers. It’s worth coming here for the splendid art nouveau décor alone. From here, it’s a short walk to the stunning Grand’Place, anchored by the Town Hall and surrounded by ornate guildhalls. Most weekday mornings there’s also a flower and plant market here. First-time visitors should pay their respects to Manneken Pis, a fountain with the statue of a small boy answering nature’s call, about a five-minute walk from the square. If you’re lucky, he’ll be wearing one of his costumes, many of which are on display at the Maison du Roi on the Grand’Place.
12:00 For lunch, check out the trio of new eateries at the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, overseen by Michelin-starred chef Peter Goossens. There’s the MuseumCafé serving up hearty Belgian fare, the more upscale MuseumBrasserie and the MuseumShop coffee lounge (all 3 Rue de la Regence).
14:30 Spend the afternoon strolling around the Place du Grand Sablon, one of Brussels’ most charming neighbourhoods, choc-a-bloc with antiques shops, chocolatiers and a couple of museums. Start at the Nôtre-Dame du Sablon Church, once the house of worship of Emperor Charles V, taking time to admire the 14m-high stained glass windows. Every Saturday and Sunday, hunt for treasures at the outdoor antiques market right on the square. Or go the more sophisticated route and visit any number of shops clustered in the area. Learn all about the postal system at the Museum of Post and Wittamer, Pierre Marcolini, Neuhaus or Godiva chocolate shops, then quench your thirst with a cool beverage on the terrace of the popular Café Leffe (46 Place du Grand Sablon).
19:00 If you’re a roller-skating fan, strap on a pair and join the Belgium Rollers, who do an evening skate around Brussels every Friday evening from June to September, starting at 7pm and often running until midnight. Those on cycles, scooters or skateboards are welcome to follow the parade, which amounts to one big, free summer party. On other evenings, the Roller Parade moves to other cities (tel. (0)2 741 6320 for where to meet and shops that rent skates). Or put your feet up and take in a film at the European Film Festival, 29 June – 7 July at Flagey (Place Saint-Croix, tel. (0)2 641 1020, www.fffb.be), the former National Institute for Radio Broadcasting which is now a cultural hotspot. Screenings go on all afternoon and into the evening, with late shows often followed by DJ sets. Taking its cue from Sundance in the US, the festival showcases original works by young, talented directors. Whether or not there’s a show on, start the evening with a drink at Café Belga (tel. (0)2 640 3508), a hip hang-out right on Place Flagey that serves Belgian beers, fruit juices and a yummy vodka-and-violet-syrup house cocktail. To escape from the bustle of city life head to La Terrasse de L’Hippodrome (51-53 Chaussée de la Hulpe; open from 15 June – 21 July, terrasse2007.be). With its own outdoor terrace, bar, restaurant and even beach volley, it’s easy to while away an afternoon and evening here with Belgium’s beautiful people.
20:00 Le Monde est Petit (65 Rue des Bataves, tel. (0)2 732 4434), whose name translates as ‘the world is small’, is a relatively new restaurant about a 10-minute walk from the Montgomery metro station. Tables in this cosy eatery (owned by Tatiana Guber and Loïc Villers) fill up quickly, even on week nights, so be sure to book ahead. Start with the brandy-accented house aperitif amid soft candlelight, jazzy tunes and photos of Manhattan on the wall. The menu features Belgian classics and pasta dishes with an Asian twist – like scallops atop sushi rolls – complemented by a mostly French wine list with young and affordable varieties. Dinner for two at this ideal date venue comes to about €120, including wine.
22:00 On warm summer nights, the bars clustered around the Place Saint-Géry are the place to be. Take your pick of Le Mappa Mundo, Zebra, Le Roi des Belges or the Halles Saint-Géry, a former market warehouse. Alternatively, Au Soleil (86 Rue du Marché-au-Charbon), in a former haberdashers, is a mellow hangout open until the wee hours. Rest your head at the three-star Comfort Art Hotel Siru (1 Place Rogier, tel. (0)2 203 3580), a unique hotel in the centre of town. Here 130 Belgian painters and sculptors designed the 101 rooms, making each one a work of art. There are promotions like the Comic Strip formula for €44 per person, which includes a night’s stay, buffet breakfast and entrance to Brussels’ Comic Strip Museum (20 Rue des Sables).
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