Images Alexander Belenky
On a night when the sun never sets, stroll along the Neva River in one of the most elegant cities in the world. Evgenia Ivanova offers an insider’s guide to where to eat, drink and be merry in style
Built on bog land at the eastern end of the Gulf of Finland just over 300 years ago, the ‘Venice of the North’ barely resembles that great Italian city. But, just like Venice, St Petersburg is a place of dying beauty, nostalgia and love-hate relationships.
The only time when the mood lightens and its otherwise ruthless climate of rain, wind and snow softens is the magical month of the White Nights.
The sun finally appears on the horizon and it never quite sets for the entire period between early June and mid-July, making this the best time for romance, celebration and partying.
A bed for the night
For the ultimate in luxury, check into the Grand Hotel Europe or the Hotel Astoria in the old town centre. Both of these St Petersburg landmarks offer the highest quality accommodation and have become celebrity favourites.
For those on a budget, there are still some very glamorous options. Situated on the same street as the Astoria, Casa Leto calls itself a boutique hotel and promises ‘a residential experience that doesn’t feel like a hotel’. Owned and run by designers Adriano and Tatyana Leto, the hotel has a calming neo-classical ambience. High ceilings, striking plasterwork and antiques in every room evoke a traditional St Petersburg atmosphere on a more human scale than the larger hotels.
Alternatively, the year-old Trezzini Art-Hotel definitely proves that small can be beautiful. Located across the Neva River from the city centre, on Vasilevsky Island, it pays tribute to Domenico Trezzini, one of St Petersburg’s most important architects and the creator of the Peter and Paul Cathedral, the city’s most recognisable symbol. The hotel also serves as an exhibition space for St Petersburg’s contemporary artists.
Out on the town
St Petersburg’s famous son Alexander Pushkin praised the White Nights in his poetry for saving him lamp oil and for the way he could see the empty streets so clearly at night. How times have changed! These days the streets are never empty on summer nights and there are far more exciting ways of spending this blissful period than just staying in.
This is the best time to engage in the city’s typical outdoor activities, such as watching the opening of the Neva bridges; taking a boat ride through the maze of St Petersburg’s rivers and canals; walking; enjoying a performance in a park; or simply wining and dining.
The White Nights also create a special atmosphere for indoor events during the summer. One of the biggest and most respected is the annual Stars of the White Nights festival at the celebrated Mariinsky Theatre (mariinsky.ru/en/). The event, which started in May and runs until 15 July, includes performances of the company’s most exceptional productions starring leading Russian and international artists.
St Petersburg’s restaurant scene is also truly international and shows that Russians are well aware of a world beyond borscht, blinis and caviar. Many restaurants have outdoor terraces to allow their clientele to get the best out of the short summer and to enjoy the rare combination of sun and warm breezes.
Among the best is Korova Bar, which serves the finest steaks in the city. Its founder, Eduard Muradyan, has quickly established himself as a cult restaurateur and he’s also the brains behind the minimalist Moskva restaurant (which has magnificent views over the Neva River and a terrace) and the VIP Decadance night club. Both of these are worth visiting – if you can get in.
The local fashionistas, however, are a constantly migrating breed. Ginza, Tiffany’s and Jelsomino Café are currently the hottest haunts for those in the know. Don’t be put off by the word café, all are top-notch restaurants.
The idea of breakfast at Tiffany’s, where the walls are densely covered with images of Audrey Hepburn, might sound clichéd, but it is, in fact, an extremely stylish and relaxed way to begin your weekend in St Petersburg. The menu includes gruel à la Russe, omelettes (the English breakfast option), a wide selection of fresh juices and Champagne.
The Asian-themed eateries of Ginza and Jelsomino are more suitable for the evening. Parties with DJs and live concerts are common occurrences. Crowded with oligarchs, models and celebrities, they’re the real vanity fairs of St Petersburg. Put on your most expensive outfit and your best smile and – who knows – the next day you might find a picture of yourself on Geometria, the internet portal that claims to “know everything about St Petersburg’s nightlife”.
For a less intimidating – but no less glamorous – dining experience, head to Shatush. Opened in April, the darkest restaurant in town follows the popular trend of offering Asian cuisine.
However European it looks at first sight, the Asian influence is quite strong. Although Shatush is a branch of the Moscow-based ultra-expensive restaurant, you won’t find any snobbery here – apart, perhaps, from the bouncers. The waiters are extremely helpful and the food is served as fresh
as it comes. Finish off your meal with a selection from the extensive list of whiskies and cigars. This is also a great place to indulge in the favourite Russian pastime of smoking a hookah, with a wide choice of tobaccos and liquids to smoke it through (milk, water or syrup) and an attentive, hookah-only waiter.
Dressed to kill
The best way to minimise the risk of running into someone wearing the same outfit as you is to buy a new one from a Russian designer. To see for yourself that Russian fashion really does exist, pay a visit to the Fashion
A.dress or Defile boutiques. Designs by local favourite Leonid Alexeev, young and aspiring Leon Crayfish or ESMOD graduate Natalia Drigant are all worth seeking out. Defile also serves as the showroom of the annual St Petersburg-based prêta-porter fashion week.
Need to know
Where to stay
Casa Leto 34 Bolshaya Morskaya, tel. +7 812 600 1096, www.casaleto.com
Grand Hotel Europe 1/7 Mikhailovskaya Ulitsa, tel. +7 812 329 6888, www.grand-hotel-europe.com
Rocco Forte Hotel Astoria 39 Bolshaya Morskaya, tel. +7 812 494 5757, www.roccofortehotels.com
Trezzini Art-Hotel 21 Bolshoy Prospekt, Vasilevskiy Ostrov, tel. +7 812 332 1035, www.trezzini-hotel.com
Where to eat
Decadance 17A Scherbakov Pereulok, tel. +7 812 947 7070
Ginza 16 Aptekarsky Prospekt, tel. +7 812 970 0764
Korova Bar 8 Karavannaya Ulitsa, tel. +7 812 314 7348
Moskva 18 Petrogradskaya Naberezhnaya, tel. +7 812 332 0200
Tiffany’s Café 12 Sadovaya Ulitsa, tel. +7 812 925 4000
Jelsomino Café 5/29 Poltavskaya Ulitsa, tel. +7 812 703 5796
Shatush 64 Naberezhnaya Moyki, tel. +7 812 448 6075
FR » Nuit blanche à Saint-Pétersbourg
Durant le mois des nuits blanches à Saint-Pétersbourg, lorsque le soleil apparaît enfin pour ne plus se coucher, l’atmosphère est vraiment magique. Entre le début juin jusqu’à la mi-juillet, les réjouissances se font plus intenses, c’est le temps de la transfiguration et de la fête.
Pour un séjour grand luxe, optez pour les établissements réputés comme le Grand Hôtel Europe ou l’Hôtel Astoria, dans le vieux centre ville. Si vous êtes plus regardant question budget, la Casa Leto vous promet ‘une ambiance chaleureuse qui n’a rien de l’hôtel impersonnel’. Ou encore, découvrez le petit mais toutefois charmant Hôtel d’Art Trezzini, qui fait également office d’espace d’exposition pour des artistes contemporains de l’endroit.
Autour du solstice d’été, les rues la nuit ne désemplissent pas. Commencez le tour de la ville par l’ouverture des ponts Neva ou faites un tour en bateau sur l’estuaire et ses canaux infinis. Comme chaque année, le festival ‘Les Etoiles des Nuits Blanches’ revient jusqu’au 15 juillet, avec des spectacles du Théâtre Mariinsky et ses représentations exceptionnelles, avec à l’affiche de grands artistes russes et internationaux.
Côté restaurants, la scène pétersbourgeoise surpasse en qualité les établissements russes habituels. Le Korova Bar prépare les meilleurs steaks. Le Tiffany rend hommage à la star Audrey Hepburn, et ses petits-déjeuners sont de véritables chefs d’œuvres. Si vous planifiez de sortir la nuit, Ginza et Jelsomino sont de bonnes adresses pour un dîner asiatique. Vous préférez quelque chose de plus simple ? Shatush sert de la cuisine fraîcheur fusion et propose aussi de fumer le hookah (narguilé).
Si vous cherchez une tenue d’exception, faites votre shopping chez Fashion A.dress ou Defile, des boutiques qui se transforment en showroom durant la semaine de la mode de Saint-Pétersbourg. Les stylistes en vogue de la scène fashion russe - Leonid Alexeev, Leon Crayfish et Natalia Drigant - valent aussi la peine d’être découverts.
NL » Slapeloos in Sint-Petersburg
Tijdens de magische ‘witte nachten’ van Sint-Petersburg gaat de zon nooit echt onder. Van begin juni tot half juli staat de stad dan ook in het teken van romantiek, party’s en fun.
Houd je van luxe? Kies dan, net als vele beroemdheden, voor het Grand Hotel Europe of het Hotel Astoria in het historische centrum. Budgetreizigers krijgen in het Casa Leto een ‘authentieke ervaring die niet als een hotel aanvoelt’. Een goed alternatief is het kleine, maar prachtige Trezzini Arti-Hotel, dat ook lokale hedendaagse kunstenaars tentoonstelt.
Tijdens de zomernachten zijn de straten nooit verlaten. Een gedroomde manier om Sint-Petersburg te leren kennen, is via een boottocht op de rivieren en kanalen of door het openen van de Neva-bruggen gade te slaan. Zeker niet te missen: het jaarlijkse festival Stars of the White Nights. Tot 15 juli zie je er tal van Russische en internationale sterren in de beste producties van het Mariinsky Theater.
De restaurants van Sint-Petersburg overstijgen de gewone Russische kost. De lekkerste steaks eet je in de Korova Bar. Als eerbetoon aan Audrey Hepburn serveert Tiffany’s juweeltjes van ontbijten.
Begin een nachtje stappen met een diner in de trendy Aziatische eethuizen Ginza en Jelsomino. Zoek je iets eenvoudigers, dan kun je bij Shatush fusiongerechten eten én waterpijp roken.
Unieke outfits vind je in boetieks als Fashion A. dress of Defile, dat tijdens de modeweek van Sint-Petersburg tevens voor défilés wordt gebruikt. Ontdek ook de veelbelovende Russische modeontwerpers Leonid Alexeev, Leon Crayfish en Natalia Drigant.
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