In the
footsteps of
Hannibal
The Carthaginian general took a battalion of elephants across the Alps, but Keith Ward follows a far more comfortable path over the roof of western Europe
In 218 BC, Hannibal crossed the snow-capped French Alps at heights exceeding 2,400m with his 60,000-strong army and 37 elephants to march on Rome. Today’s family motorist can follow a more peaceful and well-marked trail, starting just outside Nice and finishing in Geneva.
The Route des Grandes Alpes covers 684km, running roughly north to south, with four small ‘explorer’ circuits looping off it. This rollercoaster course of a thousand hairpin bends was actually conceived in the early days of motoring, at the start of the 20th century, and partly based on old mule tracks. Extended and upgraded over the years to a good surface throughout, it’s now being freshly promoted as a tourist attraction.
And what an attraction! With year-round views of snow-capped peaks, it takes in three national parks, sheer-sided gorges, hot springs, thick forests and tranquil meadows. At several points along the way, ski lifts find off-season employment hoisting summer visitors even higher, to a truly breathtaking panorama.
The rewards are sumptuous, but those prone to car sickness or vertigo should beware: the route twists and turns up, over and down 16 passes. Six of them are higher than 2,000m, topped by the highest road pass in Europe, the Col de l’Iseran, carved out in the 1930s especially for tourists. At 2,770m, it can give those of us who live in low-lying countries a touch of altitude dizziness.
In fact, in a chapter headed Practical Information, an official pamphlet warns: “The Route Des Grandes Alpes uses mountain roads, so please be careful on narrow sections and approaching passes, where the gradients are steep and the bends tight.”
Persevere, however, and along the way you will come across stages of both the Monte Carlo Rally and the Tour de France, including the Route de l’Izoard near Briançon, in the heart of the Alps, well known to followers of those events.
Beyond the views and the natural beauty of the surrounding countryside, it’s often your fellow travellers who provide the most memorable moments of the journey. At one point, as we drove somewhat tentatively along the edge of a precipice, we were passed with gusto by a convoy of Austin Healey sports cars, British-registered, lights blazing in the daytime gloom. Another day we met a group of cheery youngsters doing a charity run through the Alps in a squad of old bangers, none costing more than €150 by rule of the event.
However, there are plenty of traditional highlights along the Route, running south to north. Sospel, only 40km north-east of Nice, stands on an old salt traders’ trail, and is a centre for hiking.
The nearby Mercantour National Park, a UNESCO world heritage site, contains 36,000 Bronze Age rock engravings and other archaeological treasures. From here, you can strike out to the awe-inspiring glacial valley and lake of Lauzanier. If you want to get closer to the more meat-eating side of nature, make sure you head to Saint-Martin-Vésubie, in the central zone of the park, to see families of wolves reared in the Alpha Scénoparc (alpha-loup.com).
Amid such glorious scenery, lunchtime picnics are a delight. Shop for local honey, olives, chestnuts, the famous Reblochon and Beaufort cheeses, as well as tarts of mountain fruit (blueberry and raspberry are best), preire cheese fritters and Queyras almond biscuits. In the village of Sospel itself, stay at the Hôtel des Etrangers (7 Boulevard de Verdun, tel. (0)4 9304 0009) and eat at its restaurant, Bel Aqua. Here chef Gilles Domérégo offers exciting regional dishes such as zucchini stuffed with octopus, herbs and coriander or trout from the local rivers.
Continue hugging the Italian border north to Saint Véran, the highest village in Europe at 2,040m, where wooden houses date back to the 17th century. This is in the wild area of the Regional Park of Queyras, with its deep, tree-lined gorges perfect for alpine skiing – if you’ve got time to spare.
Approaching the half-way point of the journey stands Briançon, in the heart of the Alps, which claims to enjoy 300 days of sunshine per year. Some attractive buildings and cafés are found in the old town, dating from the Middle Ages, including the charming Restaurant Le Valentin (6-8 Rue Mercerie, tel. (0)4 9221 3772).
At Le Lautaret, one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in France waits to be discovered at over 2,000m above sea level, facing the La Meije glacier. Over the Col du Lautaret, you pass between the national parks of Vanoise and Écrins and onwards up to the Col du Galibier. At 2,645m, this stands astride the northern and southern Alps and is a must-stop photo opportunity with panoramic views.
Along the valley of the Maurienne, with its rich cultural heritage, is the preserved village of Bonneval-sur-Arc. Its alpine dwellings of wood and slate traditionally housed farmer, animals and harvest under the same roof. Catch your breath here before climbing to the dramatic Col d’Iseran, your highest point. This is another customary photo halt before dropping down to the famous ski resort of Val d’Isère.
In peak winter season, 21,000 visitors crowd into the town. Out of season you’ll struggle to find a shop open – the huge car parks are deserted and its 1,700 year-round residents are rarely seen, so enjoy the elbow room. If you crave a little company, however, the restaurant of the Hôtel La Bailletta (Avenue du Prariond, tel. (0)4 7906 0206) will be lively enough.
On the final stage, via La Clusaz, is a series of attractive villages in the Tarentaise, Beaufortain, Aravis and Chablais regions. And cheese is in the air. To produce the milk for creamy Beaufort, farmers move their cattle in summer up to high mountain pastures where the grass is rich. The cheese factory in the town of Beaufort is open to tourists, with some free sampling (www.cooperative-debeaufort.com).
Finally, with views of Mont Blanc and a growing sense of achievement, you make your way down to Thonon-les-Bains, on the lake shore between Evian and Geneva, and the official terminus of the Route des Grandes Alpes.
Need to know
■ When to go All the passes are open between early June and mid-October. Pay some heed to long-term weather forecasts if you’re to see it at its best. Allow at least four days for the full trip.
■ Where to stay Menton: Hôtel Riva, 600 Promenade du Soleil, tel. (0)4 9210 92106, rivahotel.com
Auron: Hôtel L’Ecureuil, tel. (0)4 9323 0272, www.lecureuil.com
Col du Lautaret: Hôtel Bonnabel, Monetier-les-Bains, tel. (0)4 9224 4221, www.hotel-bonnabel.com
Val d’Isère: Hôtel La Verniaz, Neuvecelle-Eglise, Evian-les-Bains, tel. (0)4 5075 0490, www.verniaz.com
FR » Sur les traces d’Hannibal
Hannibal a franchi les Alpes françaises avec 37 éléphants dans le but de marcher sur Rome en 218 av.J.-C. Aujourd’hui, les automobilistes peuvent suivre une route mieux tracée et plus paisible pour traverser la partie la plus élevée de cette région occidentale d’Europe, qui va de Nice à Genève.
La Route des Grandes Alpes se déroule sur 684 kilomètres. Toute l‘année, cet itinéraire offre des vues édifiantes depuis les cols, et vous emmène vers trois parcs nationaux et des gorges fortement encaissées. Cette itinérance est la plus haute d’Europe avec le Col de l’Iseran culminant à 2,764 mètres.
Sospel, à seulement 40km au nord-est de Nice est un centre de randonnées pédestres. De là, vous pouvez découvrir le site grandiose de la vallée glaciaire et le lac de Lauzanier. Ne manquez pas St-Martin Vésubie dans le Parc National de Mercantour, réputé pour ses familles de loups.
En continuant vers le nord, allez jusqu’à Saint Véran, le plus haut village d’Europe à 2,040 mètres d’altitude, ensuite à Briançon, au cœur des Alpes, un lieu qui prétend bénéficier de 300 jours d’ensoleillement par an. Le Lautaret, l’un des plus magnifiques jardins de France, se laisse surprendre à plus de 2,000 mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer, faisant face au glacier La Meije.
On rencontre aussi le long de la vallée de la Maurienne le village préservé de Bonneval sur Arc. Ici, reprenez votre souffle avant d’attaquer le fameux Col d’Iseran, ensuite vous savourerez un rafraîchissement bien mérité dans le restaurant de l’Hôtel La Bailletta.
La dernière étape vous conduira via La Clusaz dans une série de petits villages pittoresques où flotte une odeur de fromage. A Beaufort, la fromagerie est ouverte aux touristes, avec dégustation en prime.
NL » In de voetsporen van Hannibal
Hannibal stak in 218 v.Chr. met 37 olifanten de Franse Alpen over voor zijn mars op Rome. Vandaag kunnen de automobilisten een vrediger en beter aangegeven pad over het dak van West-Europa volgen, vertrekkend in Nice en eindigend in Genève.
De Route des Grandes Alpes is 684 kilometer lang. Het hele jaar door weet ze zich omringd door besneeuwde bergtoppen en leidt ze je door drie nationale parken en zeer steile smalle ravijnen, met als bekroning de hoogste bergpas van Europa, de Col de l’Iseran van
2.764 meter.
Sospel, slechts 40 km ten noordoosten van Nice, is een paradijs voor wandelaars. Van hieruit kun je naar de adembenemende gletsjervallei en het meer van Lauzanier. En wat dacht je van een trektocht naar St-Martin Vésubie in het Nationale Park Mercantour voor een ontmoeting met een familie wolven?
Trek daarna verder noordelijk naar Saint Véran, het hoogste dorp van Europa, op
2.040 meter. Vervolgens gaat het naar Briançon, in het hart van de Alpen, dat prat gaat op 300 dagen zon per jaar. In Le Lautaret wacht je een van de mooiste tuinen van Frankrijk, op meer dan 2.000 meter boven de zeespiegel en met uitzicht op de gletsjer van La Meije.
Langs de vallei van de Maurienne ligt het beschermde dorp Bonneval sur Arc. Kom hier op adem alvorens aan de klim naar de indrukwekkende Col d’Iseran te beginnen, en eindig in het restaurant van het Hotel La Bailletta met een drankje en een hapje.
De laatste etappe via La Clusaz vergast je op een reeks leuke dorpen waar kaas heer en meester is. De kaasfabriek in Beaufort opent haar deuren voor toeristen, met een gratis degustatie.
Image Camera Press
No comments yet.
