Text Kathryn Amelia Tomasetti,
Timothy Bird
Favourite restaurants from Brussels Airlines’ short-haul network
Ateljé Finne
FINLAND
14 Arkadiankatu, Helsinki,
tel. +358 (0)9 493 110,
www.ateljefinne.fi
Tucked away behind Helsinki’s Parliament building in trendy Töölö, Ateljé Finne is the latest incarnation of what has been a magnet for local foodies since 1960. The restaurant used to be sculptor Gunnar Finne’s workspace and the white-washed walls of this intimate, three-tiered former studio are still decorated with his sculpted reliefs.
A well-heeled crowd frequents the restaurant, which reopened earlier this year with new owners, and there’s a slightly hectic air in spite of the intimacy. But it’s a welcome addition to Helsinki’s dining scene, with a concise and mouth-watering menu that draws creatively on Finnish ingredients. Marinated perch with croutons of sweet dark bread is a delicate starter, while the tarragon-seasoned ox breast with mashed potatoes makes a substantial main course, as does a tasty mushroom risotto. Marinated strawberries and sorbet with vodka prove the perfect way to end a meal.
Expect to pay about €85 per person, with a thoughtful wine choice adding between €30 and €70 a bottle. TB
Kurt Scheller Bar &
Restaurant
POLAND
Hotel Rialto, 73 ul Wilcza, Warsaw, tel. +48
(0)22 584 8784/8794,
www.hotelrialto.com.pl
Kurt Scheller’s Restaurant, located in Warsaw’s central Srodmiescie district, is a cosy, intimate affair with a classic art deco interior reminiscent of Eastern Europe in the early 20th century. The Swiss chef’s attention to detail is evident in every dish. Particular Polish ingredients, such as herring, chanterelles and fresh-water prawns, have all been sourced locally.
Start your meal with one of Kurt’s divine soups – the white-fish bisque with morels and dill-flavoured dumplings is particularly decadent. While the fish dishes are exquisite, it’s the wild meat mains, such as venison tenderloin with juniper berries, that really grab centre stage.
Want to learn how to do it yourself? The maestro himself teaches courses that range from three hours to three days at his academy (www.schelleracademy.com.pl). Scheller himself may not be from Warsaw, but his modern Polish cuisine is generally regarded as the best in the city. The restaurant is open daily from 6am to 10.30pm, and a meal costs approximately €30 per person excluding wine. It’s the perfect place to linger on a chilly winter’s eve. KAT
Foodie corner
Grouse
There’s only a month to go before the grouse season is well and truly over, so if you’ve not yet had your yearly quota, now’s the time to get the casserole out. Braising grouse is the best way to deal with older birds – it calls for some floury riced potatoes on the side, but other than that needs no adornment.
Braised
grouse
Cube 200g of pancetta or streaky bacon and fry in a little olive oil until the fat starts to run. Add two onions, a couple of stalks of celery and a carrot, all finely chopped, and fry until soft. Transfer to a casserole dish and add two jointed grouse. Pour over half a bottle of gutsy red wine and enough stock to cover. Put the lid on and cook in a low oven for two hours.
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