Text Adele Gray
Images 4 Corners, Camera Press
As Slovenia’s stint at hosting the presidency of the European Union approaches, Brussels Airlines launches new flights to the capital this month, so hop on board and follow our guide
Mention Slovenia and most people have a vague notion of a small country somewhere near Croatia that has a capital city with an unpronouncable name. All that is about to change. In January 2008, Slovenia will step into the spotlight as it takes on the mantle of the European Union presidency, the newest member country ever to do so. For a nation with a population of just 2 million, this is an opportunity for global attention – and to dispel some of the myths and misconceptions surrounding it.
Being so small – just over 20,000km2 – has its advantages. Nothing is more than a few hours away, so there are no long journeys involved in getting from A to B. Add to that the amazing diversity of the landscape – three mountain ranges, 47km of Adriatic coastline, charming towns and villages and breathtaking lakes – plus that feeling of a safe, clean and friendly environment common to most Alpine countries, and Slovenia starts looking like the perfect destination.
Up until World War 1, the area we now call Slovenia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After the war, it joined with Serbia and Croatia to form a new nation called Yugoslavia. In the cataclysmic breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991, the Slovenes came off comparatively lightly when they succeeded in establishing their independence after just a short, 10-day war. Once again, it seems, the place was too small for the other warring parties to bother with. Since then, a strong economy and a stable democracy have allowed Slovenia to emerge from its cocoon as a modern country. In 2004, it joined both NATO and the European Union.
One of the fastest growing industries in Slovenia is tourism. For the first six months of this year, there was a 10% increase in foreign visitors over the same period in 2006. And thanks to the opening of borders and low-cost, direct flights with Brussels Airlines, it’s never been easier to visit.
Slovenia’s compact capital, Ljubljana, is ideal for a city break or as an introduction to the rest of the country. Set on the Ljubljanica River, this was already a major centre of trade in Roman times. While a portion of the old town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1895, this did clear the way for the city’s favourite son, architect Joze Plecnik, to put his stamp on it. His trademark neoclassical style can be seen all over the town centre, especially in the extraordinary Triple Bridge.
To get the best view over the city and the surrounding countryside, climb up to Ljubljana Castle. It can easily be reached on foot, but if you don’t fancy the steep hill, you can take the funicular railway. From here you’ll also see Tivoli Park, declared a nature park in 1984, with its beautiful tree-lined avenues, forest paths, Tivoli castle (which houses the International Graphic Arts Centre) and the adjoining Ljubljana Zoo, one of the most beautiful zoos in Europe.
Sandwiched between Italy, Austria, Croatia and Hungary, Slovenia has often become a battleground, and never more so than during World War 1. In the small town of Kobarid, near the Italian border, an award-winning Museum commemorates the fierce fighting that took place on the Soska Front from June 1915 to November 1917. The final Battle of Caporetto was a terrible loss for the Italians when the combined Austro-Hungarian and German forces broke through their defences, killing 11,000 Italians troops in the process. A popular 5km historical walk takes in the Kobarid Museum as well as the stunning Soca River gorge and the Kozjak waterfall.
More peaceful, but no less exciting, are the nearby Julian Alps. Here you’ll find the picture-postcard lake Bled with its charming island and therapeutic thermal springs. It’s at the edge of Triglav National Park – Europe’s largest – which covers 85 hectares and sits at the foot of Slovenia’s highest peak, Mount Triglav (2864m). This is a haven for anyone who loves the great outdoors, with endless possibilities for hiking, cycling, climbing, canoeing, canyoning, white-water rafting, paragliding and adventure sports of all kinds. And in winter you can indulge in a wide range of winter sports – skiing, snowshoeing, tobogganing and more.
But the one activity at which Slovenia truly excels is caving. Speliologists from around the world flock to the area known as the Karst, a short drive south-west of the capital. This limestone landscape is riddled with no less than 7,000 caves and potholes, created by rivers and rainwater over millennia. You don’t even have to be an experienced caver to visit this fantastical underground world – 20 caves have been opened to tourists.
The most popular is the Postojna Cave, approximately 21km in length of which about 5.2km are open to the public. Visitors climb into an electric train for a tour of the cave’s stalagmites, stalactites and impossibly still and clear lakes. It was within these caves that the ‘human fish’ Proteus anguinus was discovered – a tailed amphibian, 30cm long, with useless eyes and no pigment in its skin.
If you’re a horse enthusiast and visiting the Karst, you must go to Lipica. The stud farm here is home to the pure white Lipizzaner horses that have been enthralling audiences at the Viennese Riding School for centuries.
Those seeking relaxation should head to one of the country’s famous spas. References dating back to 1147 extol the healing qualities of the waters. There are 15 major spa resorts dotted around the country (terme-giz.si) and, these days, they also cater for ‘wellness’ tourists with beauty, fitness programmes and relaxation classes.
Eating out in Slovenia is unlikely to break your budget – food is very affordable. Typical Slovenian dishes can be found at the hundreds of gostilnas – local, family-run hostelries – throughout the country. Slovenes usually eat a snack (malica) mid-morning and a bigger meal on their return from work. You can sample malica, lunch (kosilo) or dinner (vecerja) in a wide range of eateries.
For a real taste of Slovenia, stop in at one of the many kocas (mountain huts), where they serve hearty soups and stews, such as jota – sour cabbage or turnip with beans and potatoes or rice – a barley and vegetable soup and, to accompany it, kislo mleko (sour milk) direct from the cows in the meadows. You’ll have to climb a mountain to get there, but what a reward!
Every region has its own local dishes and specialities – pršut (air-dried ham) from the Karst region, fresh trout from the Soca River. Sweet tooths are well catered for, with gibanica – a layered cake made with apple, poppy seeds and cottage cheese, various types of sweet and savoury štruklji (dumplings) and the traditional potica, a rolled cake that can be made with walnuts, poppy seeds or raisins. Also don’t miss the delicious kremna rezina, a cream and custard cake made in Bled.
The numerous annual festivals, fairs and celebrations are another opportunity to sample traditional fare. Highlights include the annual Kravji Bal (The Cow Ball) in Bohinj, which celebrates the end of the growing season with herdsmen in traditional costumes leading their cattle down from the pastures. There’s even an annual Sautée Potato Festival in Bela Krajina.
Slovenia may be small, but it’s full of possibilities if you’re open to adventure.
FR » Petite mais parfaitement équilibrée
En janvier 2008, la Slovénie va pour la première fois endosser la présidence européenne. Pour une petite nation de deux millions d’âmes, c’est l’occasion d’attirer sur elle tous les regards.
Le pays, qui couvre 20 000 km², jouit d’une incroyable diversité de paysages: trois chaînes de montagnes, 47 km de côte longeant la mer Adriatique, des villes et villages charmants, et des lacs au grand air. Depuis le démantèlement dramatique de la Yougoslavie en 1991, une économie florissante, une démocratie stable, ont permis à la Slovénie de se distinguer comme un pays moderne.
La dense capitale, Ljubljana, est une cité idéale. Son enfant chéri, l’architecte néoclassique Joze Plecnik, a marqué toute la ville de la signature de ses bâtiments, dont l’incontournable Triple Pont. Mais pour jouir du meilleur point de vue sur la ville, montez au château de Ljubljana. A Kobarid, près de la frontière italienne, un musée largement récompensé commémore les combats qui s’y déroulèrent durant la première guerre mondiale, et qui menèrent à la défaite de l’Italie à la bataille de Caporetto. Dans les environs, les Alpes Juliennes, plus paisibles mais non moins excitantes, sont un paradis pour les amoureux des grands espaces.
Ici vous trouverez la typique ‘carte postale’ du lac Bled et son île de charme. S’il est une activité à ne pas manquer en Slovénie, c’est la spéléologie. Le paysage calcaire de la région de Karst est criblé de 7 000 grottes et crevasses. Vingt d’entre elles ont été ouvertes au public, dont la plus célèbre est la grotte de Postojna.
Manger en Slovénie ne risque pas de grever votre budget. On y trouve par centaines des gostilnas – des auberges locales, petites entreprises familiales, qui servent les plats typiques.
NL » Klein maar fijn
In januari 2008 wordt Slovenië voorzitter van de Europese Unie. Voor een land met amper 2 miljoen inwoners is dat een uitgelezen kans om zich wereldwijd te profileren.
Op 20.000 km² vind je een heel afwisselend landschap, met drie bergketens, een 47 km lange Adriatische kustlijn, charmante steden en dorpen en prachtige meren. Sinds het uiteenvallen van Joegoslavië in 1991, wist Slovenië dankzij een sterke economie en een stabiele democratie uit te groeien tot een modern land.
De compacte Sloveense hoofdstad, Ljubljana, is echt een droomstad. Architect Joze Plecnik heeft zijn geboortestad getooid met talloze neoklassieke bouwwerken, waaronder een prachtige drievoudige brug. Het beste zicht op de stad heb je vanuit het kasteel van Ljubljana.
In Kobarid, vlakbij de Italiaanse grens, herdenkt een gelauwerd museum de gevechten die er tijdens de Eerste Wereldoorlog plaatsvonden, vooral dan de Italiaanse nederlaag in de Slag bij Caporetto. Vrediger, maar niet minder opwindend, zijn de nabijgelegen Juliaanse Alpen, ideaal voor natuurliefhebbers. Daar ligt ook het erg fotogenieke meer Bled met zijn idyllische eiland.
Ook voor speleologie zit je goed in Slovenië. Het kalksteenlandschap van de Karst telt zo’n 7000 grotten en spelonken. Een twintigtal daarvan zijn toegankelijk voor toeristen. De populairste is de Postojnagrot.
Je kan er ook lekker eten voor geen geld. Typisch Sloveense schotels vind je in de honderden lokale familieherbergen of gostilnas.
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