Milan ITALY
Text Charles Searson
Milan may be most famous for its fashion and shopping, but there’s lots more on offer in this ecletic Italian city
Milan is a strange and exciting mix. This is Italy’s commercial powerhouse, where people go about their business behind dark glasses. Under the mask, though, the fashion capital has many attractions – getting a new wardrobe is just one of them.
Local dishes can be heavy but there’s a wide range of cosmopolitan cuisine from the rest of Italy and abroad. Milan has Europe’s most atmospheric football stadium, as well as being one of Italy’s best-kept architectural secrets. But the real jewels lie behind closed gates – many of the early 20th-century palazzi hide fairytale gardens.
HISTORIC CENTRE
You know you’ve arrived in Milan when you see the Duomo (Piazza del Duomo). Nearly six centuries in the making, one of the world’s largest Gothic cathedrals is studded with 135 spires. Take the lift (€6) or the stairs (€4) to the roof for an unforgettable panorama.
The cathedral is almost dwarfed by Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The 19th-century shopping mall is known as “the drawing room of Milan” and contains Prada’s flagship store as well as some elegant cafés where you pay for the honour of being studied by passers-by (a coke costs €6).
Ac
ross the square, Palazzo Reale hosts regular art shows. Giuseppe Piermarini, who oversaw renovations of the palace, also built the world’s most famous opera house, Teatro alla Scala (2 Via Filodrammatici, tel. 02 7200 3744). Performances sell out fast, but you may get last-minute seats.
In the north-west corner of the old city, Castello Sforzesco (Piazza Castello) is an art space and an attraction in its own right.
Often overlooked are the ancient buildings in Piazza Mercanti, which miraculously survived bombing during World War II. From 7 December, Oh Bej! Oh Bej! street fair – honouring Milan’s patron saint, Ambrose – takes place around the 4th-century Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio (La Scala’s season opens the same day).
Pick of the central restaurants is Antico Ristorante Boeucc (2 Piazza Belgioioso, tel. 02 7602 0224), which serves hefty traditional Milanese fare.
BRERA
Brera is the most elegant of Milan’s bohemian districts and its main attraction is Pinacoteca di Brera, one of the most important art collections in Italy. Check out ‘The Kiss’, a world-famous work by Venetian-born Romantic painter Francesco Hayez.
The best shopping is to be had on Corso Garibaldi, Via Solferino and Via della Moscova, where the ultra-cool interior design store Arform (22 Via Moscova) is worth a look. In warmer months there are evening street markets selling crafts, jewellery and designer knock-offs.
Ristorante Santini (3 Via San Marco, tel. 02 655 5587) is a smart modern Italian eatery. Speakeasy (7 Via Castelfidardo, tel. 02 653 6645) is a welcoming American bar that serves a great Sunday brunch.
NAVIGLI
Milan used to be a port, but all that survives are a couple of canals and a dock basin. Around these, the cool artists’ quarter has become the city’s most interesting area after dark.
Good drinking dens include L’Osteria (46 Alzaia Naviglio Grande) – its opening was a media event – and Cape Town Café (3 Via Vigevano), said to be a favourite haunt of actor Salma Hayek. Scimmie (49 Via Ascanio Sforza) is an internationally famous jazz club.
El Brellin (Vicolo Lavandai, 14 Alzaia Naviglio Grande, tel. 02 5810 1351) is a popular eatery serving traditional meat and pasta dishes and Sunday brunch.
FASHION DISTRICT
North-east of the Duomo lies a small grid of streets known as Quadrilatero d’Oro, or the golden quadrangle, which includes Via Monte Napoleone, Via Sant’Andrea and Via della Spiga. This is Milan’s version of Rodeo Drive, where the boutique windows look like pages from Vogue, all competing for the greatest impact.
Stores on Via Monte Napoleone include Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Valentino, Via Sant’Andrea has Chanel and Moschino, while Via della Spiga has Bulgari. Dress smart to shop – if you don’t look the part, you won’t get past the door staff. And take plenty of money. It’s a myth that designer clothes cost less in Italy. For eating out, there’s Paper Moon (1 Via Bagutta, tel. 02 796083), a surprisingly affordable restaurant-pizzeria given the number of celebs. For cocktails with models and stylists, try the Dolce & Gabbana Martini Bar (15 Corso Venezia) inside the boutique, all red and black with leather sofas.
ISOLA-GARIBALDI
The area north of Garibaldi known as Isola is another of Milan’s once-humble districts. It’s more laidback and multi-cultural than other parts of the city, and has specialist boutiques, antique shops and drinking places. A popular haunt is Frida (3 Via Pollaiuolo), a lively bar with a heated courtyard, great cocktails, art shows and Sunday brunch.
To the south of Garibaldi is Corso Como, with the discotheques Casablanca Café (number 14) and Hollywood (number 15), popular with footballers and VIPs. There’s also the oh-so-chic lifestyle boutique 10 Corso Como (www.10corsocomo.com), of course, which sells books, music, clothes and home accessories.
■ Where to stay
Town House Galleria (8 Via Pellico, tel. 02 8905 8297, www.townhouse.it, rooms from €760) opened in March this year billed as Europe’s first seven-star hotel. The rooms offer spectacular views inside Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Giuseppe Verdi used to stay at Grand Hotel et de Milan (29 Via Manzoni, tel. 02 723141, grandhotelet www.demilan.it, rooms from €402), which has retained its 19th-century interior and bar.
Italian design hotel Straf (3 Via San Raffaele, tel. 02 805081, www.straf.it, rooms from €250), right next to the Duomo, was created by architect and fashion designer Vincenzo De Cotiis and combines classic architecture and minimalist design.
Hotel Spadari al Duomo (11 Via Spadari, tel. 02 7200 2371, www.spadarihotel.com, rooms from €188). is a popular boutique hotel and home to a collection of work by young avant-garde Milanese artists.
Just across the street from the city’s Stazione Centrale is Starhotels Anderson (20 Piazza Luigi di Savoia, tel. 02 669 0141, www.starhotels.com, rooms from €150.). The interior of this modern building is inspired by the art deco movement.
Regency Hotel (12 Via Arimondi, tel. 02 3921 6021, www.regency-milano.com, rooms from €100) is a comfortable olde worlde-style four-star hotel set in an 18th-century residence, conveniently located for the Milanocity trade fair.
The three-star Hotel Lugano (6 Via Astolfo, tel. 02 266 3000, www.luganohotel.net, rooms from €55) is near Lambrate station and popular with both tourists and business-people.
FR> Gros plan sur Milan
La force commerciale de l’Italie repose sur une ville riche, énergétique où tout le monde s’affaire derrière ses lunettes noires. Toutefois, sous le masque, la capitale de la mode recense une gamme complète de centres d’intérêt.
Dès que le Duomo est en vue, vous savez que vous êtes arrivé à Milan. Prenez l’ascenseur ou les escaliers jusqu’à son sommet d’où le panorama est inoubliable. Juste à côté, se trouve la Galerie Vittorio Emanuele II. Ce centre commercial du 19e siècle abrite le magasin enseigne de Prada.
Brera est un des quartiers bohémiens parmi les plus élégants de Milan. La principale attraction est la Pinacothèque, qui comprend les plus grandes collections d’art d’Italie. Pour faire du shopping, les meilleurs endroits sont Corso Garibaldi, Via Solferino et Via della Moscova.
Quelques canaux épars et un quai portuaire sont les derniers vestiges du port de la ville, mais ils sont investis par un quartier d’artistes, la partie de la cité qui devient la plus intéressante dès la tombée du soir. Les bars sympathiques incluent L’Osteria (46 Alzaia Naviglio Grande) et Capetown Café (3 Via Vigevano). El Brellin (14 Vicolo Lavandai) est une cantine populaire.
Au Nord-Est du Duomo se trouve Quadrilatero d’Oro, avec les avenues Via Monte Napoleone, Via Sant’Andrea et Via della Spiga. Pour dîner, Paper Moon (1 Via Bagutta), est une adresse de restaurant-pizzeria à un prix abordable. Pour un cocktail, essayez le Dolce & Gabbana Martini Bar (15 Corso Venezia).
Isola est légèrement plus informel et multiculturel, proposant des boutiques spécialisées, des magasins d’antiquités et des petits bars. Un lieu apprécié est Frida (3 Via Pollaiuolo). Au Sud de Garibaldi, on trouve le Corso Como, avec les discothèques Casablanca Café et Hollywood.
Si vous cherchez un endroit où loger, Town House Galleria (8 Via Silvio Pellico) offre une vue sur l’intérieur de la Galerie Vittorio Emanuele II, et l’Hôtel Spadari al Duomo (11 Via Spadari) héberge une collection de travaux de jeunes artistes. L’ hôtel trois-étoiles Lugano (6 Via Astolfo) près de la gare de Lambrate attire une population variée de touristes et de voyageurs d’affaires.
NL> Milaan binnestebuiten
Het commerciële hart van Italië is een rijke, bedrijvige stad waar mensen hun zaken behartigen achter donkere zonnebrilglazen. Achter dat masker verbergt de modehoofdstad echter een schat aan attracties.
Je weet dat je in Milaan bent aangekomen, wanneer je de Duomo ziet. Neem de lift of de trappen naar het dak voor een onvergetelijk panorama. Naast de Duomo ligt de Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. In die 19de-eeuwse winkelgalerij heeft Prada zijn hoofdkwartier.
Brera is de elegantste artistieke wijk van Milaan. De hoofdattractie is de Pinacoteca, die een van de belangrijkste kunstverzamelingen in Italië huisvest. De beste boetieks vind je in de Corso Garibaldi, Via Solferino en Via della Moscova.
Enkele kanalen en een dok zijn alles wat de stad rest van haar haven. De omliggende kunstenaarswijk is de meest populaire uitgaansbuurt van de stad. Goede cafés zijn L’Osteria (46 Alzaia Naviglio Grande) en Capetown Café (3 Via Vigevano). El Brellin (14 Vicolo Lavandai) is een populaire eettent.
Ten noorden van de Duomo ligt de Quadrilatero d’Oro, met de Monte Napoleone, Via Sant’Andrea en Via della Spiga. Eten kan je in Paper Moon (1 Via Bagutta), een betaalbaar restaurant-pizzeria. Cocktails drink je in de Dolce & Gabbana Martini Bar (15 Corso Venezia).
Het multiculturele Isola is relaxter en heeft eclectische boetieks, antiekwinkels en kroegen. Een populair adres is Frida (3 Via Pollaiuolo). Ten zuiden van Garibaldi ligt de Corso Como, met de discotheken Casablanca Café en Hollywood.
Zoek je een bed voor de nacht? Town House Galleria (8 Via Silvio Pellico) heeft kamers met zicht in de Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, terwijl Hotel Spadari al Duomo (11 Via Spadari) werken van jonge kunstenaars tentoonstelt. Het driesterrenhotel Lugano (6 Via Astolfo) in de buurt van het Lambratestation is populair bij toeristen en zakenreizigers.
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