Now a destination of choice with A-listers shunning the jetset lifestyle, Stockholm’s weekender islands are beguiling incomers as much as locals. Laura Henderson reports
Greta Garbo, the notoriously press-shy star of the silver screen, was renowned for her drama-queen line: “I want to be alone”. Her wish eventually came true in the guise of a cosy two-storey hilltop summerhouse on the remote Swedish island of Ingarö, where she enjoyed her twilight years a happy but virtual recluse.
Several decades on and the back-to-basics charms of this Baltic archipelago around Stockholm are attracting a new generation of ‘pap-phobic’ celebrities, the islands’ clean, natural beauty and super-fresh air winning over the likes of Quentin Tarantino, Tiger Woods and Kevin Spacey. Of the 24,000 islands, many are virtual suburbs of the capital, connected to the mainland by bridge or car ferry. None, however, is quite like any other: some forest-clad, rise high above the sea; others are low, exposed slabs of rock known as skerries, where the only company you’re likely to keep is the local wildlife.
The 19th century kick-started the fashion for island sommarstugor (summerhouses), with Sweden’s increasingly affluent population looking for somewhere tranquil and scenic to spend the country’s notoriously short but gloriously warm summers. Residences were passed down from generation to generation, but this tradition has slowly died out with a more cosmopolitan pool of newcomers discovering the region’s unspoilt charms. “Overseas investors love the purity of the islands,” says Stefan Landsberg of estate agents Castelli & Co. “The population is quite small, plus you have the ability to be alone, which for a holiday destination these days is rare.”
Snapping up a pad however, does present its challenges. Buying can be very competitive, with closed property bids often sought within days of a viewing open day. Offers, however, aren’t legally binding and purchasers can pull out even if their bid is successful.
To date, most interest has focused on the east-lying islands of Sandhamn, Moja and Vaxholm, all within striking distance of Stockholm. “About 85 % of property here is in private hands,” says Landsberg. “The remainder of land is owned by the Archipelago Foundation, which was formed in the late 1950s in part to ensure that private landowners wouldn’t close the islands and the waters to people who couldn’t afford to buy. It has been a successful collaboration, with the foundation now subletting properties for use such as hotels, and working to protect water quality and wildlife on land and sea.”
Budget-wise, property prices depend entirely on size and location, although they’ve been rising steadily across the board in the past four years – “15 to 20% per annum”, according to Ann Nystrom of Stockholm agents Per Nyström – thanks to interest rates of 5% and scarcity value, with tight restrictions on new-build construction. Many properties still have a large dose of Swiss Family Robinson about them: simple wooden structures, painted red, green and yellow, the more traditional ones sporting gingerbread details, with beautiful fretwork and glass enclosed verandas, tiled ovens, wooden floors and wooden beds built into the walls. Some even lack running water.
“A modest pine-clad affair to renovate, perhaps with a boathouse, can be picked up for around €250,000,” says Nystrom, “a little more if the property is in good repair.” Upscale chalets, by comparison, can comfortably run into the millions, although, as Nystrom point out, “with a sea view and somewhere to park your boat, you’ll always have a buyer waiting in the wings”.
Marstrand is the jewel of the west coast, with its gleaming marina, New England-style clapboard houses and trendy waterfront eateries. “Those with tighter budgets set on buying on the island often sacrifice the view” says Jan Erak of Skandia Mäklarna. In any case, nowhere is ever more than a few hundred yards from the water. A three-bedroom cottage will set you back around €450,000. Rentals are also very lucrative. Peak season in June and July, when the Swedes take their holidays, can net you in the region of €3,000 a week, with bookings secured a year in advance.” With a pint-size community and a picture-postcard bay of bobbing boats, Sandhamn, an hour’s ferry ride from Stockholm, has lost none of its old-world charm. “Sandhamn is the east coast rival to Marstrand,” says Landsberg. “However, property prices in Sandhamn are higher because of proximity to Stockholm.”
For those in search of a livelier getaway, there’s Vaxholm in the northern reaches and Varmdo in the central archipelago. The islands’ sandy beaches, biking and nature trails appealing to families “Both islands offer a wide choice of real estate, from cosy log cabins to larger luxury waterfront villas,” says Michelle Thoming of Svensk Fastighetsförmedling. Sitting pretty just 300 metres from the waterfront on one of Vaxholm’s smaller satellite islands, the agency has an idyllic whitewashed villa on its books for €580,000. Located in secluded tree-lined gardens and accessed by a private drive, the property boasts three good-size bedrooms, two bathrooms, an open-plan living room and decked first-floor terrace.
“The best bit about owning a place here is the island-hopping – being able to mess about in boats and stop off for picnics,” says Landsberg. “There’s no standing on ceremony, just lots of gentle recreation. Traditions die hard in Sweden, and holing up here every summer is without a doubt one of the best.”
Buyer’s guide to Sweden
- There are no restrictions on foreign ownership
- It’s usual to go through an estate agent when purchasing a property
- Buyers are advised to have an independent survey carried out
- Buyers must apply for deeds of title within three months of the sale transfer
- Stamp duty is charged at 1% of the purchase price
- An annual property tax of 1.5% is payable, based on a valuation by the local council. New or renovated homes are exempt for at least five years
- Wealth tax is charged at 1.5% of taxable amounts in excess of KR800,000 (€84,600)
FR L’odyssée des îles
Parmi les 24 000 îles que comprend l’archipel suédois dans la mer Baltique, nombreuses font en réalité office de banlieues de Stockholm, reliées à la terre par un pont ou par le ferry. En ce moment, ce sont les îles situées le plus à l’est, Sandhamn, Moja et Vaxholm qui suscitent un grand intérêt. “Environ 85 pour cent de la propriété ici sont aux mains de privés,” explique Stafan Landsberg de l’agence immobilière Castelli & Co.
Les prix de l’immobilier dépendent avant tout de la taille et de la situation du bien. “Une modeste construction en pin à rénover, flanquée bien souvent d’un hangar pour bateau, peut se négocier aux alentours de €250 000,” selon Ann Nystrom de la compagnie immobilière Per Nyström, “un peu plus si le bien est bien entretenu.” En comparaison, les chalets haut de gamme peuvent atteindre plusieurs millions.
Marstrand est le fleuron de la côte ouest, avec sa marina resplendissante, ses maisons à bardeaux de style Nouvelle-Angleterre et des petits restaurants à la mode à front de mer. “Les Britanniques et les Norvégiens font partie des étrangers qui sont propriétaires sous cette latitude, venant s’ajouter à la population permanente d’environ 500 habitants,” confirme Jan Erak de Skandia Mäklarna.
Avec sa minuscule communauté et sa baie de type carte postale, Sandhamn, à une heure de ferry de Stockholm, n’a perdu aucun de ses charmes d’antan. Dès l’arrivée de l’été, l’île attire une foule prestigieuse pour les régates de Gotland Runt, mais le centre du village garde toutefois une atmosphère délicieusement passée. Pour ceux qui préféreraient suivre une voie plus animée, Vaxholm et Varmdo sont incontournables. “Les deux îles offrent un large choix de propriétés, depuis des cabanes jusqu’aux imposantes luxueuses villas de bord de mer,” dit Michelle Thoming de Svensk Fastighetsförmedling.
“Le grand avantage lorsque l’on possède une maison dans cet endroit est la possibilité de faire le tour des îles, accoster en bateau où l’on veut et s’arrêter pour pique-niquer,” confie Landsberg. “Rien n’est guindé dans ces havres où vous profitez de loisirs en toute simplicité. Les traditions persistent en Suède, et se retirer chaque été dans les îles fait incontestablement partie des coutumes les plus agréables.”
NL Odyssee langs Zweedse eilanden
Veel van de 24.000 eilanden van de Baltische archipel van Zweden lijken wel buitenwijken van Stockholm die met een brug of autoferry met het vasteland zijn verbonden. De oostelijke eilanden Sandhamn, Moja en Vaxholm genoten tot nu toe de meeste belangstelling. “Zo’n 85% van de eigendom is hier in privéhanden”, vertelt Stafan Landsberg van vastgoedkantoor Castelli & Co.
Je betaalt hier naargelang de grootte en ligging. “Voor een bescheiden, op te knappen stulpje met dennenhouten muren en misschien een boothuis leg je zo’n 250.000 euro neer”, zegt Ann Nystrom van kantoor Per Nyström, “en iets meer wanneer de eigendom in goede staat is.” De prijs van de betere chalets kan dan weer in de miljoenen lopen.
Marstrand, met zijn schitterende jachthaven, huizen met plankengevels in New England-stijl en trendy eethuisjes aan het water, is het pareltje van de westkust. “Onder de buitenlanders hebben vooral Britten en Noren hier een optrekje, samen met een permanente bevolking van zo’n 500 mensen”, vertelt Jan Erak van Skandia Mäklarna.
Met zijn handjevol inwoners en pittoreske baai heeft Sandhamn, op een uur met de ferry vanuit Stockholm, niets van zijn oude charme verloren. Hoewel het eiland in de zomer een glamoureuze massa voor de Gotland Runt-regatta aantrekt, ademt de dorpskern nog steeds een heerlijk ouderwetse sfeer. Voor wie het er iets levendiger aan toe mag gaan, zijn er Vaxholm en Varmdo. “Beide eilanden bieden een ruime keuze aan vastgoed, van knusse blokhutten tot de wat grotere villa’s aan het water”, legt Michelle Thoming van Svensk Fastighetsförmedling uit.
“Het leukste van een eigen huis hier is het eilandhoppen, met een bootje rond kunnen tuffen en hier en daar halt houden voor een picknick”, vertelt Landsberg. “Hier hecht men zich niet aan vormen, enkel aan veel en rustig vermaak. Zweden houdt zijn tradities in ere. En hier ’s zomers je toevlucht zoeken, is daar ongetwijfeld de beste van.”
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