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36 Hours in Turin
There’s more to Turin than the Fiat factory. Try the flourishing café culture, sumptuous slow food and plenty of shopping, says Julia Holmes
The birthplace of Italian car production, Turin is often regarded as Italy’s industrial headquarters. What’s less well known is that it’s one of the country’s greenest cities. Surrounded by luscious Alpine landscape, visitors flock to the Mole Antonelliana, Turin’s answer to the Eiffel Tower, to take in the astounding views. But scenic views and Fiat cars are not all the city has to offer. It is an eclectic place, where 30s glamour, baroque architecture and bohemian chic co-exist comfortably.
Explore the Quadrilatero’s avant-garde shops, hole-in-the-wall restaurants and scruffy markets, then step back in time to the elegant cafés of the Piazza San Carlo. As you walk through the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, you will often find yourself sandwiched between ever-changing outdoor exhibitions and rumbling trams speeding towards the River Po. From the world-renowned Egyptian Museum to the Grand Madre di Dio church and Fiat test track, made famous by their roles in The Italian Job, Turin has culture racing through its streets.
Day one
09:00
Start your day at the Gran Madre di Dio. The breathtaking domed roof and looming pillars were inspired by Rome’s Pantheon. The church was also part of the legendary car-chase scenes in The Italian Job, so it’s a must-see for film buffs.
10:30
Cross the River Po to Piazza Vittorio Veneto, wander under the arches to grab breakfast at Il Forno (53 Via Po, tel. 011 307 5127), a tiny patisserie bursting with delicious breads, pastries and cakes. Try the fagottini crema and cioccolato (cream-and-chocolate-filled pastries).
11:30
Mole Antonelliana is Turin’s tallest landmark, towering 167m above the city. It’s worth the extra few euros to ride the glass lift to its 87m-high viewing platform for a vertigo-inducing vista. On the ground floor is the entrance to the National Cinema Museum (20 Via Montebello). Check out the Manga Impact, exhibition which has a large selection of Japanese movie posters, action figures and storyboards (until 10 January 2010). Pop into the futuristic multimedia café for lunch and watch film sequences and play games on the main tables’ interactive screens.
14:30
Head for Via Roma where designer stores line the arcaded walkways. Otherwise, turn onto Via Cesare Battisti where, on Fridays, the street leading to Piazza Carignano is filled with stalls selling vintage lace, jewellery and art deco prints.
16:30
Stop by Pepino (Piazza Carignano) for a bicerin, a Torinese institution. This coffee layered with milk, chocolate and sirop de canne may look small for €5, but it’s guaranteed to deliver a generous injection of liquid energy.
17:30
Just around the corner is the Museo Egizio (6 Via Accademia delle Scienze, open Tuesday-Saturday), where for €7,50, you’ll find the largest collection of Ancient Egyptian artefacts outside of Cairo.
19:00
A trip to Turin is not complete without aperitivo at Caffè Torino (204 Piazza San Carlo). This is a Torino tradition; a selection of small dishes, including salamis, cheeses and bite-sized pastries, almost like an Italian version of tapas. Order a negroni to go with your food. It’s Turin’s signature cocktail.
Outside, make sure you don’t miss the brass bull on the ground. Locals and visitors rub their feet on his testicles, as legend has it that this guarantees fertility.
20:30
Porto di Savona (2 Piazza Vittorio Veneto, tel. 011 817 3500) has a very traditional Italian feel, with black-and-white family portraits covering the walls. Try the risotto with pumpkin blossom and a barolo chinato aperitif. The restaurant sits right on the piazza, so grab a table outside.
22:00
Bianco Torino (21b Piazza Vittorio) is one of many fashionable bars on the piazza. With guest DJs and all cocktails €6, it’s the perfect location for after-dinner drinks. If the desire to dance is too strong, head to Doctor Sax (4 Murazzi del Po) on the river, which spins reggae till 4am.
Day two
10:00
Venture out of the city centre to Le Méridien Art+Café (230 Via Nizza, tel. 011 664 2000), where you can enjoy breakfast in a chic setting. Spotlights suspended from the glass ceiling illuminate the cherry-wood walls, creating a sophisticated culinary experience.
11:00
Next door, on the roof of Le Méridien Lingotto Hotel (262 Via Nizza), is the legendary Fiat test track. If you close your eyes, you may still hear the screeching tyres of Michael Caine’s Mini Cooper. Guests staying at the hotel have free access, but for €4 you too can admire the surrounding snow-capped Alpine peaks from the track, by taking the lift up to the adjacent Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli gallery (situated in the 8 Gallery shopping mall and worth a look).
13:00
Put your bartering skills and Italian to the test at the Balon, Turin’s largest flea market, situated in the Quadrilatero. At weekends, stalls spill onto the pavement, selling everything from bikes to brooches. With a keen eye, you could pick up a real gem.
15:00
With its quirky mismatched crockery and eclectic furnishings, Il Brillo Parlante (14 Via Borgo Dora) is worth a visit. Go for local favourite agnolotti (venison-filled ravioli).
16:00
There’s a selection of fashionable stores that are hidden from the crowds on and around Via Franco Bonelli. John Doe concept store (18 Via San Domenico) offers a platform for new designers. Look out for the giant stag in the window and check it out on the internet for upcoming events, as there’s an exhibition space in the basement. Vintage lovers should swing by Sticky Fingers (24d Via Delle Orfane) for floaty 50s skirts and Magnifica Preda (28 Via Sant Agostino) for 70s wallpaper, sunglasses and records.
20:00 Osteria Al Tagliere (Via Bellezia, tel. 011 436 9551) is a tiny but inviting restaurant popular with the locals. The menu is similarly small and offers only traditional Torino dishes, such as bagna cauda (vegetables with hot anchovy and oil dip).
22:00 For a nightcap, stop by the candlelit winery L’Acino (2a Via San Domenico), where you can choose from a wide selection of wines.
Where to stay
Le Méridien Lingotto (262 Via Nizza, tel. 011 664 2000. lemeridienlingotto.com, rooms from €153) is a 10-minute taxi ride out of town, but its sleek décor and location a stone’s throw from exclusive shopping mall 8 Gallery make the journey worthwhile.
NH Santo Stefano (19 Via Porta Palatina, tel. 011 522 3311, nh-hotels. com, rooms from €119) is a luxury hotel situated a short walk from the Mole Antonelliana.
Hotel San Carlo (197 Piazza San Carlo, tel. 011 562 7846, albergosancarlo.it, rooms from €65) is a small but comfortable bolthole that has recently been revamped and is located in one of the most beautiful squares in the city.
Right next door to Turin’s main railway station, Porta Nuova, Hotel Nizza (9 Via Nizza, tel. 011 669 0516, hotelnizza. to.it, rooms from €60) is well connected to all the major transport systems, and allows pets to stay too.
FR 36 heures à Turin
Turin, berceau de la production automobile, est souvent considérée comme le pôle industriel de l’Italie et cependant, c’est l’une des villes les plus vertes de la péninsule. Ici, le glamour des années 30, l’architecture baroque et le style bohémien chic coexistent sans fausse note
Jour 1 10:00 Commencez votre journée au Gran Madre di Dio, inspiré du Panthéon de Rome.
10:30 Traversez le Fleuve Po jusqu’à la Piazza Vittorio Veneto et grappillez un petit-déjeuner à Il Forno (53 Via Po).
11:30 Mole Antonelliana est le symbole de Turin, l’édifice le plus élevé de la ville, d’une hauteur de 167m.
14:30 Rejoignez la Via Roma où les boutiques de designers s’alignent côte à côte sous les arcades.
16:30 Faites une pause chez Pepino (Piazza Carignano) pour un bicerin, un café turinois où se superposent les couches de lait, de chocolat et de sirop de canne.
17:30 Juste au coin de la Via Accademia delle Scienze se trouve le Museo Egizio (6 Via Accademia delle Scienze) où vous pourrez découvrir la plus grande collection d’art et d’objets de l’Ancienne Égypte hors du Caire.
19:00 Commandez un negroni pour accompagner vos amuse-gueule au Caffe Torino (204 Piazza San Carlo).
20:30 Il se dégage une atmosphère traditionnelle de l’Italie au Porto di Savona (2 Piazza Vittorio Veneto), avec une foule de portraits de famille en noir et blanc accrochés aux murs.
22:00 Bianco Torino (21/B Piazza Vittorio) est un de ces nombreux bars à la mode sur la place, avec des DJs invités et des cocktails pour 6€.
Jour 2 10:00 Aventurez-vous hors de la ville au Méridien Art+Café (230 Via Nizza, tél. 011 642000) où vous pourrez apprécier un petit-déjeuner dans un cadre chic.
11:00 Juste à côté, sur le toit de l’Hôtel Le Méridien Lingotto (262 Via Nizza), découvrez la célèbre piste de l’ancienne usine automobile Fiat.
13:00 Dénichez la perle rare au Balon, le plus grand marché aux puces de Turin situé dans The Quadrilatero.
15.00 Optez pour les délices du coin, les agnolotti (raviolis fourrés à la viande de gibier), au Il Brillo Parlante (14 Via Borgo Dora)
16:00 Une vaste sélection de boutiques tendances se déploient à l’abri de la foule, dans les environs de la Via Franco Bonelli.
20:00 Le menu d’Al Tagliere Osteria (Via Bellezia) offre des plats traditionnels turinois comme les légumes avec des anchois chauds et des dips à l’huile.
22:00 Pour une lumière dans la nuit, arrêtez-vous au bar à vins illuminé de bougies L’Acino (2/A,Via San Domenico).
NL 36 uur in Turijn
Als bakermat van de Italiaanse autoproductie wordt Turijn vaak bekeken als het industriële hoofdkwartier van Italië, maar het is ook één van ‘s lands groenste steden, waar de betovering van de jaren dertig, de barokke architectuur en de bohemien chic comfortabel samenleven
Dag 1 10:00 Begin uw dag in het Gran Madre di Dio, geïnspireerd op het Romeinse Pantheon.
10:30 Steek de Rivier Po over naar de Piazza Vittorio Veneto en ontbijt in Il Forno (53 Via Po).
11:30 Mole Antonelliana is Turijn’s hoogste historisch monument, dat 167 meter boven de stad uittorent.
14:30 Ga naar de Via Roma waar de designerwinkels langs de overwelfde promenades liggen.
16:30 Stop bij Pepino (Piazza Carignano) voor een bicerin, Een Turijnse koffie met laagjes melk, chocolade en kandijstroop.
17:30 Net achter de hoek op de Via Accademia delle Scienze bevindt zich het Museo Egizio (6 Via Accademia delle Scienze) waar u de grootste collectie aan artefacten uit het Oude Egypte buiten Caïro terugvindt.
19:00 Bestel een negroni (Italiaanse cocktail) bij uw eten in het Caffe Torino (204 Piazza San Carlo).
20:30 Porto di Savona (2 Piazza Vittorio Veneto) heeft een heel traditionele Italiaanse flair, met zwart/ wit familieportretten aan de muren.
22:00 Bianco Torino (21/B Piazza Vittorio) is een van de vele trendy bars op de piazza met gast-DJ’s en cocktails voor 6€.
Dag 2 10:00 Waag u buiten de stad naar Le Méridien Art+Café (230 Via Nizza, tel. 011 642000) waar u kunt ontbijten in een chique decor.
11:00 Vlak ernaast, op het dak van Le Méridien Lingotto Hotel (262 Via Nizza), bevindt zich het legendarische testparcours van Fiat.
13:00 Koop een kleinood op Balon, de grootste vlooienmarkt van Turijn, in de Quadrilatero.
15.00 Ga voor de lokale favoriet agnolotti (ravioli gevuld met hertenvlees) bij Il Brillo Parlante (14 Via Borgo Dora)
16:00 Er is een selectie van modieuze winkels die verborgen liggen van de drukte, op en rond Via Franco Bonelli.
20:00 De menukaart bij Al Tagliere Osteria (Via Bellezia) biedt traditionele Turijnse schotels aan zoals groenten met hete ansjovis en oliedip.
22:00 Voor een slaapmutsje, stop bij de door kaarsen verlichte wijnmakerij L’Acino (2/A,Via San Domenico).
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