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Italy : Bologna - January 2009 Country Code: Dial ++39 for Italy
After the Christmas festivities
are over, Bologna gets a little
quieter, which leaves visitors
with plenty of opportunity to
go shopping or catch the latest
exhibition – like the Giovanni
Battista Cavalletto retrospective
at the Medieval Museum until the
22 February. Massimo Benvegnù
enjoys the silence
Getting around
Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city
Bus: A shuttle bus
runs from the airport
to the train station
every 15 minutes.
The journey takes
about 20 minutes
and costs €5. Other
buses serve Modena
and Siena. Taxi: The journey
to the city centre
takes about 20 to
30 minutes and
costs about €18. Tourist information: The main office is
in Piazza Maggiore
(tel. (0)51 239660).
VIA DELL’INDIPENDENZA
The vast majority of the city’s
activities take place under Via
Indipendenza’s porticoes.
Shop til you drop – For up-front
street fashion, try Paris, Texas (67 Via
dell’Indipendenza). Another good address
is Venere (71 Via dell’Indipendenza).
Must drink – A great way to start a
winter day is with a delicious pastry and
a creamy cappuccino at Bar Pasticceria
Impero (39 Via dell’Indipendenza).
Must eat – Locals stop by at Pizzeria
Altero (33 Via dell’Indipendenza, tel.
051 234758) to grab one of its typically
small, square pizzas. They come with
many different toppings, such as
pomodoro sauce (tomatoes and
oregano) with sausage and courgette, or
buffalo mozzarella with air-cured ham. A
true bargain, they start from €1,20.
Sleep soundly – A recent facelift has
seen an old palace transformed into I
Portici Hotel , a hotel that’s big on glamour
and has a great bar.
VIA GALLIERA
If Via dell’Indipendenza is too crowded
for you, move to this parallel street
and experience a slower pace of life.
Must eat – Trattoria Caminetto d’Oro
(4 Via Dei Falegnami, tel. 051 263494) is
sublime. The fiorentina (a succulent Tbone
steak) is a must. Otherwise, the
rich regional cheese platters are an
excellent alternative, followed by the ice
cream with balsamic vinegar topping.
Culture vultures – The Museo Civico
Medievale (4 Via Manzoni) has a vast
collection of art and artefacts from the
middle ages. The current exhibition (on until 22 February) displays the work of
Giovanni Battista Cavalletto, a native
son and renowned miniaturist master
from the 15th to 16th century.
STRADA MAGGIORE
From the Two Towers, walk down to
Strada Maggiore and discover its
hidden wonders, secret gardens and
ancient buildings.
Shop til you drop – If you’re looking
for a good antiques shop, head straight
to Antichita’ Due Torri (17 Strada
Maggiore), which sells ceramics, trinkets
and 19th-century smoking pipes.
Dance the night away – A big
favourite with the city’s student
population, alternative club Sesto
Senso (9 Via Petroni) stages electro
nights, art exhibitions and, during
winter, the occasional free concert.
Must eat – In a town where ham is
king, Clorofilla (64 Strada Maggiore,
tel. 051 235343) is one of the city’s best
vegetarian restaurants, and is also
worth a visit for its pastel interiors.
Culture vultures – One of Bologna’s
most famous symbols, the Two Towers
were erected by local families for
reasons of prestige, and are now among
the best known sights in the city.
If you’re willing to climb its
498 steps, you can get
a fantastic view of the
city from the top of
the Asinelli tower. The Museo Internazionale e Biblioteca della Musica at Palazzo
Sanguinetti (34 Strada Maggiore) is
a beautiful 18th-century palace in its
own right. It also displays historical
musical instruments, sheet music and
original manuscripts.
VIA MARCONI
Scientist Guglielmo Marconi (1874-
1937) is one of Bologna’s most famous
sons. A street bearing his name couldn’t
be anything but bracingly modern.
Shop til you drop – Head to
Glamour Retail
(9 Via Marconi) for
Italian high fashion.
Sleep soundly – Simple but extremely
comfy, Bed & Breakfast Le Vele is conveniently
positioned in the city centre.
Must drink – Bologna’s fashion
mavens gather at Caffe’ del Navile
(30 Via Marconi) for the traditional
aperitivi (late afternoon drinks) and
complimentary nibbles on the side. Sip a
mint tea, take a drag from a water pipe
and, if you’re lucky, get a glimpse of one
of Katia Zero’s belly-dancing sessions
at Maison Moresque
(2 Via Grabinski).
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