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Portugal : Faro - December 2008 Country Code: Dial ++351 for Portugal
With sunny days still the norm
rather than the exception, Faro,
gateway to the Algarve, comes
into its own at this time of year.
Snowbirds, outdoor enthusiasts
and golfers all fl ock here to cure
the winter blues with some
Portuguese sunshine. Paul Rouse
dons his shades
Getting around
Faro International Airport
Bus: Eva Bus
connects the airport
with the city centre.
Services run every
30 minutes from
7.05am to 9.15pm.
The journey takes
20 minutes and a
return ticket costs
€4 while a single
ticket costs €1,55. Train: A single journey
from the airport to
Faro for up to four
passengers costs
around €15 and
takes 15 minutes. Tourist information: The main tourist
office is at 8-11 Rua
da Misericordia
(tel. 289 803604,
visitportugal.com).
CITY CENTRE
Often bypassed by tourists, Faro is a
bustling modern city with a lively arts,
entertainment and leisure scene.
Sleep soundly – The four-star Hotel
Faro is directly opposite the
marina and has a panoramic restaurant.
Slightly out of town, the Hotel Alnacir
offers comfortable,
modern accommodation.
Culture vultures – The Centro
Ciencia Viva (Centre for Living Science),
on the waterfront at Rua Comandante
Francisco Manuel, is located in a former
electricity generating station and houses
interactive exhibits, an observatory and
a flight simulator.
Must eat – Great fish, seafood or
steaks – take your pick at Baía (7 Largo
Dr Silva Nobre, tel. 289 822845). House
specials include ensopada de eiros (eel
stew) and monkfish cataplana (the
Algarve style of cooking in a special
copper pot). For partridge, hare or wild
boar, try O Vinhão (63 Estrada de Sao
Luis, tel. 289 829267). It’s also famous
for its bacalhau (salted cod) dishes.
Dance the night away – Upa Upa (51
Rua Conselheiro Bivar, tel. 289 807832)
draws a mixed crowd, plays good music
and has a spacious patio. It’s open daily
from 9pm to 4am.
Shop til you drop – Designer stores
and local boutiques come together in
Faro’s main shopping street, Rua de
Santo Antonio, while the nearby
pedestrianised area is lined with smaller
shops and cafés.
OLD CITY
With its medieval walls, castle,
cathedral, cobbled streets, museums
and historic buildings, the Cidade
Velha is a delight.
Culture vultures – The Museu
Arqueologico e Lapidar Infante Dom
Henrique (near the castle) is housed in
a former convent and contains an
impressive collection of 17th and 18thcentury
art. It’s closed at weekends.
Must eat – Mesa dos Mouros (10
Largo da Sé, tel. 289 878873) – the
‘Moors’ table’ – sits opposite the 13thcentury
cathedral. A rustic atmosphere
and local specialities such as javoli
com molho de frutos (wild
boar with fruit sauce)
make it a popular
haunt. Sardines on
the barbecue don’t
come much better than at the tiny Taberna Modesto
nearby. This family-run gem is
minimalist to the point of having no
menu, address or phone number. Just
follow your nose, sit down and enjoy
Shop til you drop – Drop into Livraria Bertrand (27 Rua Dr Francisco Gomes,
tel. 289 828147), Faro’s best bookshop.
A LITTLE FURTHER AFIELD
Less than 30 minutes from Faro is the
‘Golden Triangle’ of Vale do Lobo,
Quinta do Lago and Vilamoura offering
luxury resorts, fine dining and some of
the best golf courses in Europe.
Sleep soundly – The exquisite Hotel
Quinta do Lago overlooks the Ria Formosa
Natural Park and has four championship
golf courses on its doorstep.
Culture vultures – The Pequenos
Formatos art exhibition at Vale do Lobo
(Almancil, tel. 289 353262) runs from
19 December to 15 February, displaying
work by international artists such as
Saskia Bremer, Karsten Fuge and
Günter Grass
Must eat – Follow the locals to Zé
do Norte (Quatro Estradas, Almancil,
tel. 289 399373) for hearty and
unpretentious Algarve cuisine. Try the
black pig and the picanha steaks. The
French-influenced Aquarelle (Almancil
to Vale do Lobo road, tel. 289 397973)
is a little more formal. Recommended
dishes include the foie gras and the
duck, with local fish contributing a
Portuguese element.
Must drink – Couleur France (Vale
de Eguas, Almancil) is a chic restaurant
with a late-night champagne bar
serving tapas. Take your
drink on to the terrace
on mild evenings, or
into the sheltered
winter garden when
the nights draw in.
Compiled by Paul Rouse
Previous issues for Faro
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance.
