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Italy : Naples - October 2008 Country Code: Dial ++39 for Italy
The idea that Naples might prove
a calmer proposition out of the
peak summer season is a little
fanciful. This remains Italy’s most
animated, vibrant city even if the
weather isn’t at its warmest. Matt
Barker enjoys some late autumn
sun, and finds time to cram
in a bit of culture in between
mouthfuls of pizza
Getting around
Naples International Airport at Capodichino.
Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13.
An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)
MERGELLINA
The idea that Naples might prove
a calmer proposition out of the
peak summer season is a little
fanciful. This remains Italy’s most
animated, vibrant city even if the
weather isn’t at its warmest. Matt
Barker enjoys some late autumn
sun, and finds time to cram
in a bit of culture in between
mouthfuls of pizza
Culture vultures – For a more
contemporary take on Neapolitan
culture, the Palazzo delle Arti Napoli
(60 via dei Mille) is home to a cross
section of cutting-edge artists, while the
Studio Trisorio (215 riviera di Chiaia) is
a small, independent gallery that
showcases up-and-coming names.
Must eat – Il Gallo Nero (466 via
Torquato Tasso, tel. 081 643012) is
swish, but still resolutely traditional, with
a menu based on local recipes that date
from the 19th century. Try some of their
deck-fresh seafood or pastas, like
Neapolitan linguine with pesto, or
macaroni with artichokes and peas. It’s
closed on Mondays, though. La
Sacrestia (116 via Orazio, tel. 081
664186), up the hill, is set in a villa
overlooking the sprawling centro. It’s not
cheap, but it’s a real treat.
Shop til you drop – The Torretta
market (via Giordano Bruno La Torretta)
is a charming, colourful food market
that also houses a number of cloth
and craft stalls. La Montanina (30 via
Carlo Poerio) is one of the city’s best
cheese shops and the place to stock
up on provolone del nonno, a spicy
local speciality.
SPACCANAPOLI
October can still bring the odd spot of
hazy sunshine, so expect to see plenty
of life lived out on the cobbled streets
of the centro. The historic centre is
the essence of the city, a crisscrossing
maze of side streets in the
shadow of religious monuments,
where you’re never more than six feet
away from a slice of pizza.
Sleep soundly – Spending the night in
the middle of the city needn’t mean
investing in industrial strength earplugs.
Both the Hotel Palazzo Decumani and the Duomo are relaxing boltholes – the former is a
chic, designer affair, while the latter is
a touch more homely.
Culture vultures – The San Domenico
Maggiore (Piazza
San Domenico
Maggiore) is a
true icon of the city, a brooding Gothic church, moody
and magnificent. The Cappella
Sansevero (17-21 via Francesco de
Sanctis) is a small, stunning baroque
chapel. The Museo Archeologico
Nazionale (19 Piazza Museo) is a useful
standby if you haven’t got time to head
out to Pompeii – it houses a huge replica
of the doomed city.
Must eat – Antica Pizzeria Port’ Alba
(18 via Port Alba, tel. 81 459713) is a
great spot for pizza and, unusually for
this city with its strict dough-disc
etiquette, you can even have one at
lunchtime without raising eyebrows.
Di Matteo (94 via dei Tribunali, tel. 81
455262) is one of the city’s most
popular restaurants, offering excellent
Neapolitan street food like asta cresciuta
(dough balls) and crochette di patate
(potato croquettes).
SANT’ ELMO AND VILLA FLORIDANA
Best reached by the funicular rail
service, the castle and surrounding
area are perched high above the city.
Culture vultures – The Castello Sant’
Elmo (1 Largo San Martino) dates from
the 12th century and has a long and
intriguingly gruesome history. It’s closed
on Sundays. The Villa Floridana and
surrounding gardens are altogether
more genteel and perfect for escaping
the claustrophobic centro.
Must eat – Acunzo (60-62 via
Cimarosa) is a relaxed, family-run place,
just next door to the funicular. It does
robust regional food and is famous for
its pizzas. Even in the middle of a
torrential downpour, a stop at the
Gelateria Otranto (78 via Scarlatti) is
an absolute must. They do
fantastic home-made ice
creams and sorbets, but
if the weather gets really
cold, go for one of their
ice cream-filled pastries.
Compiled by Matt Barker
Previous issues for Naples
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance.
