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Portugal : Porto - December 2008 Country Code: Dial ++351 for Portugal
As Christmas approaches, Porto’s
main shopping streets are a
feast for the senses, with festive
lights, music and the scent of
seasonal pastries mingling with
roasting chestnuts. Expect street
concerts, carousel rides and ice
skating. And what better way to
celebrate than with a glass of
port, asks Paul Blaney
Getting around
Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport
Bus: The 601 bus runs to the city centre every half hour, the 602 runs every 15 minutes. The journey takes about an hour and tickets cost €1.30.
Train: The metro runs into the airport terminal and takes 25 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1.35. Trains run from 6.00am to 1.00am.
Taxi: A taxi to the town centre costs about €20 and will take approximately 20 minutes.
Tourist information: 25 Rua Clube dos Fenianos (tel.808 781 212/222 057 514/800 296 296, www.visitportugal.com).
RIBEIRA
This lively waterfront quarter of
narrow alleys, bars and shops slopes
steeply down to the River Douro.
Sleep soundly – The newly opened Guest House Douro is the city’s
first and only waterfront lodging house.
Culture vultures – The ornate Palácio
da Bolsa (the former Stock Exchange,
Rua Ferreira Borges) combines a superb
range of architectural styles, including
the breathtaking Arabian Room.
Must eat – Restaurante Sessenta
Setenta (1a Rua Sobre o Douro, tel. 223
406093) is in a former convent, has
superb river views and serves dishes
infused with simple, subtle flavours.
Choose the sea bass with saffron or the
pigeon with sweet preserved pumpkin.
Shop til you drop – Centro Regional
de Artes Tradicionais (CRAT, 37 Rua da
Reboleira) specialises in regional arts
and crafts. It’s a good place to find a
present for those tricky relatives.
BAIXA
The city centre has many architectural
sights and is easy to explore on foot.
Sleep soundly – The venerable
Hotel Infante Sagres is perfectly located and has
elegance to spare.
Culture vultures – The Lello
Bookstore (144 Rua das Carmelitas) is
as much a cultural landmark as it is a
bookshop. Opened in 1906, it’s quite
simply one of the most exquisite
bookstores in the world. And they even
City lowdown
have a tiny coffee shop on the second
floor that serves port.
Dance the night away – The city
centre club of choice is Plano B (30 Rua
Cândido dos Reis).
Shop til you drop – Close to Porto’s
iconic Torre dos Clerigos, the area
around Rua Cândido dos Reis and
Galeria de Paris has become the
trendiest shopping district in the city
centre. Among the fashionable bars,
cafés and shops, check out Mezzanine
(53 Rua Cândido dos Reis), which stocks
a sporty collection of casual clothes.
BOAVISTA
This upmarket district
gives its name to
Porto’s other
football team.
Sleep soundly – BessaHotel offers good value for money.
Rooms are decorated in spare, modern
style with lots of grey and white.
Must eat – The wine-bar-inspired
Restaurante ‘L Fresco (934 Avenida da
Boavista, tel. 226 079560) has a great
atmosphere, tasty Portuguese food and
an excellent wine list.
Dance the night away – Triplex (911 Avenida da Boavista) is a popular bar/
club that hosts both DJs and live acts.
Shop til you drop – Whether you’re
shopping for others or filling your own
stocking, two stores not to miss are
Sneakers Delight (203 Rua José Gomes
Ferreira) and Chocolates Arcadia (1046
Avenida da Boavista), which specialises
in handmade, soft-centred sweets.
FOZ
Stretching north from the mouth of
the Douro, Foz is Porto’s beach
district, an area that gets particularly
lively after sundown.
Sleep soundly – The Hotel Boa-Vista is right across the road from the
beach and has good value rooms and
suites with sea views.
Must eat – Those who prefer lobster
and crab to turkey and sprouts should
make tracks for O Gaveto (826 Rua
Roberto Ivens, tel. 229 378796) for fresh,
affordable seafood dishes.
Must drink – Trintaeum (564 Passeio
Alegre) is the place to see and be seen in
Foz. Expect thumping live music, cuttingedge
interiors and a stylish crowd.
Dance the night away – When
the time comes to hit the
floor, Indústria (843
Avenida do Brasil)
has a well-deserved
reputation as Foz’s allnight
party favourite.
Compiled by Paul Blaney
Previous issues for Porto
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