Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Focus on Krakow

Over the last 200 years, Poland has suffered invasion and occupation. But the Poles are a determined and dignified race, and, in their own words, Krakow has come to symbolise ‘the heart of everything Polish’ reveals James Hopkins

There aren’t too many cities in the world that can boast two Nobel Prize-winners and a Pope, but it’s true of Krakow in southern Poland. The previous Pope, Karol Wojty[0142]a (aka John Paul II), was once Archbishop of Krakow, and native poets Czes[0142]aw Mi[0142]osz (1980) and Wis[0142]awa Szymborska (1996) have both been honoured by the Swedish Academy. A Pope’s city, a poet’s city; it is precisely this blend of culture and religion that has helped Krakow to endure then overcome its terrible history.

Rynek Gtówny

There is undoubtedly a new buzz to Krakow, a city that was once at the forefront of avant-garde art, and very much an active contributor to Europe’s cultural life. A simple walk around Rynek G[0142]ówny (the main square, known to most simply as ‘The Rynek’), one of the largest in Europe, will testify to the renewed continental atmosphere of the city.

People from around the world come to admire the twin towers of the 14th-century Mariacki Church, its dark-brick walls concealing dramatic friezes by the famous local artist, Matejko, as well as a high altar by the great late-Gothic sculptor Veit Stoss. Stretching the length of the square, the yellow Sukiennice building, known as the ‘Cloth Hall’ and reconstructed in 1550, looks majestic by day and romantic by night as huge lamps glow beneath its arches. Inside, you’ll find a stunning collection of 19th-century Polish art.

Get another cultural fix at the Krakow History Museum (Rynek G[0142]ówny 35, tel.), before satisfying an entirely different desire at U Babci Maliny’s restaurant (Ulica S[0142]awkowska 17, tel. ). Here you’ll find traditional Polish fare like soups, meat dishes and pierogi (dumplings). If you just want to take the weight off your feet and watch the world go by with a good cup of coffee, try the elegant Europejska café (Rynek G[0142]ówny 35, tel. ) instead.

The Old Town

Rynek Glówny is the heart of Krakow, so the arterial streets of the Old Town that surround it are filled with its lifeblood. Here, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque townhouses present themselves at every turn, while beautiful churches can be found down every alley, such as the

imposing Church of the Transfiguration at the end of Ul Jana, and the tiny St. Mark’s nearby.

In fact, in Krakow’s historic centre, there is no shortage of interesting buildings, from the renovated Barbican at the end of Ul Floriañska to the art nouveau beauty of Poland’s oldest theatre, the Teatr Stary on Plac Szczepañski. Or there’s the hugely impressive Wawel Castle (Wawel 5, tel. ), burial place of Polish kings and queens (Krakow was the capital of Poland until 1596).

En route to the castle, walk along Ul Kanonicza, a cobbled lane crammed with old townhouses, the famous Cricot 2 theatre and the modern Copernicus hotel. Nearby Ul Go[0142]Ðbia, meanwhile, is probably the prettiest street in the centre, and home to several charming cafés, one or two cellar bars and an excellent little cukiernia, or cake shop. Just round the corner is the American bookshop and café, Massolit (Ul Felicjanek 4/2, tel. ), which has a huge stock of books in English, and serves excellent coffee and muffins.

Art lovers should be sure to check out the Bunkier Sztuki Gallery (Plac Szczepanski 3a, tel. ), one of the few contemporary buildings in the Old Town, and home to Krakow’s most impressive collection of modern art.

Going Underground

Over the years, much of Krakow’s cultural life has taken place beneath the streets, and a candle-lit, subterranean culture still thrives in the city today. There are bars, clubs, cabaret venues and restaurants down below, often in medieval vaults, some of which have been carefully maintained, while others have been gaudily decorated. The most interesting venues, such as the revered Klub Kulturalny (Ul Szewska 25, tel. ) or the relatively new Piwnica Pod Kominkiem (Ul Bracka 13, tel. ), are delightful by day and decadent by night, like so much of Krakow. Walk down a dozen steps and enter a smoky, cavernous world of bare brick walls and two dozen candles that light up glasses of beer and tall Tatankas – Zubrówka vodka sweetened with apple juice.

You’ll also find on Szewska two of the busiest nightclubs in the Old Town, Frantic and Klub Goraczka, but such is the fusion of styles and ages in the city that the street also harbours the stylish jazz club, Piec’Art (Ul Szewska 12, tel. ). Indeed, there are many piano and jazz bars in the city, the most famous of which is the Harris Piano jazz bar on the main square (Rynek G[0142]ówny 28, tel.
), and for connoisseurs, Klub Muniaka (at the Mariacki Church end of Ul Floriañska).

Kazimierz – The Jewish District

The leafy avenues of Kazimierz around Ulice Szeroka and Jozefa, a 15-minute walk from the centre, recall the once-thriving Jewish district that was ghettoised by the Nazis. Today, this area is a quiet place of reconstructed synagogues and cemeteries, many of which can be visited. Fine restaurants such as Ariel (Ul Szeroka 18, tel. ) and the international cuisine of Szara Kazimierz (Ul Szeroka 39, tel. ), allow you time to gather your thoughts in a meeting of history and hospitality.

Indeed, this meeting of history and hospitality is what Kazimierz is all about.

Two of the city’s hippest bars are located here: Singer Café (Ul Estery 20, tel. ) offers an enchanting mix of ruby-red decor, old sewing machines, a piano and crazy dancing until the small hours, while Alchemia (Ul Estery 5, tel. ) has several rooms and a candle-lit cellar open until dawn.

Since EU accession in 2002, the Polish spirit has been assisted, and at times tested, by western finance. The new glass shopping mall at Galeria Kazimierz on the river at the edge of the district – where you can find most of life’s luxuries at very good prices – is a welcome addition to Polish life after years of queuing under communism.

On the outskirts

The wonderful collection of 20th-century Polish art at the National Museum (Ul Maja 3, tel. ), just a 20-minute walk or a short tram ride from the centre, is a must visit. Look out for the green poster towers for the latest information regarding what’s on and where. And it’s also worth a trip to Nowa Huta, the steel works and workers’ town on the edge of the city; a whole area planned and built by the Soviets in a bid to quash once and for all Krakow’s inventiveness, spirit and verve.

Happily – as you will see yourself when you visit this magical city – they failed!

Where to stay

Old Town

Copernicus Hotel
Ul Kanonicza 16, tel. . One of Krakow’s most exclusive hotels on the delightful Ul Kanonicza. Rooms from around €150 per night

Amber Hotel
Ul Garbarska 10, tel: . Attractive mid-priced hotel. Rooms from around €75 a night

Travellers Inn
Ul Sarego 24/2, tel. . Friendly young hostel with free internet and bike hire. Beds from around €12

Jewish District (Kazimierz)

Hotel Ester (pictured below)
Ul Szeroka 20, tel. . High-quality hotel in the Jewish district. Rooms from around €125 a night

Kazimierz’s Secret Apartments
Ul Jozefa 34, tel. . Fine apartments in a great location. From around €65 a night

Momotown Hostel
Ul Miodowa 28, tel. . Hostel in a good location, but watch out for the Absinthe bar. Beds from around €7 a night

Regard sur Cracovie

Cracovie a fini par symboliser aujourd’hui ‘le cœur de l’identité polonaise’.

Une promenade autour de Rynek Glówny (la place principale, l’une des plus grandes d’Europe) vous permettra d’apprécier le renouveau de la ville, dont l’atmosphère s’apparente de plus en plus à celle de l’Europe continentale. Le bâtiment jaune Sukiennice, reconstruit en 1550, s’impose par sa majesté le jour et son romantisme la nuit, avec ses lampes flamboyantes, brillant sous les arches. Dirigez-vous vers le restaurant U Babci Maliny sur Ul. Slawkowska, pour déguster des plats traditionnels comme les soupes, les plats à base de viande et les boulettes farcies.

La Vieille Ville regorge de palais gothiques et de magnifiques églises. Visitez l’impressionnant Château Wawel (Wawel 5, 5), où sont enterrés les rois et les reines de Pologne. Un peu plus loin, faites une halte à la librairie-café américaine, Massolit (Ul. Felicjanek 412, 0), où l’on sert d’excellents muffins avec le café.

Toute une culture souterraine, vacillant à la lueur de la bougie, subsiste encore à l’heure actuelle dans la ville. On recense parmi les endroits les plus étonnants, le Klub Kulturalny (Ul. Szewska 25, 9) ou Piwnica Pod Kominkiem (Ul. Bracka 13, 30), exquis de jour et carrément décadents de nuit, règne des mondes secrets peuplés de brique apparente et de vodka édulcorée. De retour sur terre, Harris Piano jazz est sans doute le bar le plus sélect, situé sur la place principale (Rynek Glówny 28, 1).

Les avenues bordées d’arbres de Kazimierz, le quartier juif, se trouvent à 15 minutes de marche du centre. Là, vous trouverez la meilleure cuisine chez Ariel (Ul. Szeroka 18, 0), ou le bar le plus trendy au Singer Café (Ul. Estery 20, 2). Pour le shopping, allez à la Galerie Kazimierz le long du fleuve.

Dans les faubourgs, Nowa Huta, la ville des travailleurs de l’acier atteste de l’esprit vigoureux de cette cité fantastique.

Focus op Krakau

Krakau symboliseert ‘het hart van alles wat Pools is’.

Op Rynek Glówny, een van de grootste stadspleinen van Europa, proef je meteen de vernieuwde westerse sfeer van de stad. Het majestueuze gele Sukiennice-gebouw, heropgebouwd in 1550, wordt ‘s avonds romantisch verlicht met enorme lampen op de gewelven. Probeer zeker het restaurant U Babci Maliny in Ul. Slawkowska voor traditionele Poolse kost, zoals soepen, vleesgerechten en knoedels.

De Oude Stad herbergt vele gotische paleizen en prachtige kerken. Zo is er het indrukwekkende kasteel Wawel (Wawel 5, 5), waar Poolse vorsten begraven liggen. Om de hoek vind je Massolit, een Amerikaans boekenwinkeltje en café (Ul. Felicjanek 412, 0) met heerlijke koffie en muffins.

In de stad leeft ook nu nog een heuse undergroundcultuur. De leukste adresjes zijn Klub Kulturalny (Ul. Szewska 25, 9) of Piwnica Pod Kominkiem (Ul. Bracka 13, 30). Deze rokerige, grotachtige ruimtes met kale baksteen en zoete wodka zijn gezellig overdag en decadent ‘s nachts. Blijf je liever bovengronds? Ga dan naar de bekende Harris Piano Jazz Bar, op het stadsplein (Rynek Glówny 28, 1).

De Joodse wijk Kazimierz met zijn bomenlanen bevindt zich op 15 minuten wandelen van het centrum. De beste plaatselijke gerechten vind je in Ariel (Ul. Szeroka 18, 0) of de hippe bar Singer Café (Ul. Estery 20, 2). Winkelen doe je dan weer in Galeria Kazimierz aan de rivier.

Buiten de stad getuigt Nowa Huta, waar de staalarbeiders wonen, van het sterke karakter van deze grootse stad.

Images Tim E White

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