Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Happy hopping

Jenny Egeland discovers that, with 24,000 islands in the Stockholm archipelago, any island-hopping holidaymaker will be spoilt for choice. No wonder Stockholmers are so proud of their fractured city

The Stockholm archipelago is home to 12,000 people all year round, but outside the summer season, many islands are only accessible if you have your own boat. Hotels and restaurants open at about the end of school term, in mid June, and then start to close down by mid August when school starts again. It’s always good to check opening hours before heading out, and if you’re into camping, it’s also worth checking where the nearest grocery store is.

Those who want to see as much as possible of this beautiful, broken landscape can opt for the Archipelago Card. For €32 (SEK 300), which includes a ‘boat-hopping kit’, you can travel as widely as you like for five days with Waxholmsbolaget, one of the larger shipping companies. But with that much to choose from, where should you go?

Fjäderholmarna

For child-friendly surroundings, Fjäderholmarna, only a 25-minute ferry ride from the city centre, is the obvious option. With a large playground, wooden ship and ice-cream specialists Systrarna Degen Mat och Glasstuga nearby, the kids are sure to be happy. For Mum and Dad, there’s an exhibition of Sweden’s only whisky distillery Mackmyra.

When the days turn hot, head for the cliffs on the south and east side of the island to enjoy a swim and the spectacular view of Stockholm’s inlet. There are two restaurants on the island: high-end Fjäderholmarnas Krog (tel. ), which sometimes has well-known guest chefs creating their own menu, or Rökeriet (tel. ), with fresh seafood platters.

Utö

The island of Utö, on the other hand, offers a romantic touch and was a favourite haunt of Greta Garbo. The southern archipelago’s most popular destination, three hours by ferry from Stockholm, it has long sandy beaches and classy accommodation at Utö Värdshus (Utö Inn, tel. , utovardshus.se). The Inn’s restaurant has won several awards, including the Archipelago’s Best Restaurant competition three times. It’s famous for its perch, halibut and salmon, much of it caught locally. The Inn is the island’s only hotel and also offers accommodation in cottages and a hostel. It’s excellently located with a view of Gruvbryggan harbour at the northern end of the island.

For a good swim, head for the sandy beaches on Utö’s south side. Stora Sand and Storsand are a 15km bike ride from the harbour, but get a map from the tourist office beforehand and check that the military’s shooting range, which you need to pass through on your way there, is open to the public. The tourist office (tel. ) is in the harbour and you can also hire bikes here.

Utö has a long history of iron mining, which was the island’s main source of income for 700 years. Today, the old mine pit behind the Inn is filled with water and rocks – the latter thrown in by the Russian army in 1719 in an attempt to destroy the mine – but it’s still an impressive sight. There is also a tiny mining museum at Gruvbryggan.

Sandhamn

The party island of the archipelago is Sandhamn, a haven for sailors and the island of choice for fun-loving Stockholmers during the summer months. Many take their own boat there, but the ferry connections are good and the trip from central Stockholm takes about two hours.

Watch out for the first weekend of hte month (1-4 July), when Sweden’s largest sailing regatta, the Gotland Runt, takes place. Either join in for the biggest party of the summer or avoid this time if you prefer not to queue for everything.

The largest hotel on the island, Seglarhotellet (tel. ), is the obvious choice for a night out, but there are also a few bars to choose from. Sandhamm is unique as it mostly consists of sand, hence the name, which means ‘Sand Harbour’. There are several good beaches to choose from, but the most popular is Trouville on the southern side.

Saltsjö-Boo

If you‘re looking for relaxation, there are several spas on the archipelago, but the one on the residential island of Saltsjö-Boo is unique. Yasuragi Hasseludden (tel. , yasuragi.se) is like a piece of Japan washed up on Sweden’s shore. Redesigned by Japanese architect

Yoji Kasajima in 1972, it was used as a conference venue by various trade unions for 20 years before opening to the public. Situated a 25-minute drive from the city – or a 30-minute ferry ride in the summer – the concrete building looks anything but charming from the outside, but inside it’s a different world.

Yasuragi means ‘harmony and inner peace’ in Japanese, and with people so peaceful that they fall asleep on their deck chairs in the pool area, you have to admit that it has succeeded.

At Yasuragi, there are no showers. Instead you ‘cleanse’ yourself by sitting naked on a small wooden stool with a bucket of water and a slippery bar of soap. It’s difficult not to feel silly at first. But somehow it works – suddenly washing takes time and you just can’t get stressed out any more. The ritual finishes with a delicious soak in a Japanese hot tub.

Out in the main pool area, people laze in the deck chairs, half asleep, half meditating, watching the treetops and the sea outside. On colder days, the hot springs outside are even more tempting. For the (slightly) more active, there are classes in yoga, qi gong, kendo and meditation. The menu is completely Japanese, and some guests even sit and eat in the blue and white robe they received on arrival. A full day, from 8am to 4pm, costs €87 (SEK 800) and includes lunch, slippers, robe, classes and use of most of the facilities.

Oaxen

If first-class dining is your kind of thing, the archipelago can cater for you too. Oaxen Skärgårdskrog (tel. , oaxenkrog.se), on the island of Oaxen, has repeatedly been named the best restaurant in Sweden, and was the only Swedish restaurant to make the 2007 San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Owner Magnus Ek and partner Agneta Green have a special love for organic and local produce, so it’s no wonder they’ve also been awarded Ecological Restaurant of the Year 2007. It’s not easy to get to, but this prime exponent of New Nordic cuisine is more than worth the effort. From central Stockholm it’s an hour’s drive to Mörkö from where you take a 10-minute ferry trip to Oaxen. If you decide not to make the journey back, M/S Stjernorp offers accommodation in an 1870 steam ship and there’s also a B&B on the island.

Main ferry companies

Strömma Kanalbolaget, tel. , www.stromma.se

Waxholmsbolaget, tel. , waxholmsbolaget.se

For more information, news, events and links to local tourist boards, visit the Stockholm Visitors Board website www.stockholmtown.com

FR » Agréable tour des îles

Avec quelque 24 000 îles à découvrir, l’archipel de Stockholm offre un choix incommensurable aux voyageurs qui veulent relier les îles.

La meilleure façon de commencer son itinéraire est d’acheter une Carte de transport autour de l’Archipel, qui comprend un pass pour le bateau qui relie les îles, vous pouvez donc voyager autant que vous le voulez durant cinq jours. Mais face à une telle diversité, que choisir?

Pour les environnements accueillants pour les enfants, Fjäderholmarna, à seulement 25 minutes de traversée depuis le centre ville, est l’option qui s’impose. Avec une grande plaine de jeux, un navire en bois et des spécialistes de la crème glacée tout autour, Systrarna Degen Mat och Glasstuga, les enfants y trouveront leur bonheur. Vous pourrez aussi apprécier une baignade à proximité des falaises dans le Sud et dans la partie Est de l’île, d’où la vue est spectaculaire sur la baie de Stockholm.

De son côté, l’île de Utö, offre une touche romantique, c’était aussi le refuge favori de Greta Garbo. Cet archipel au Sud, une des destinations les plus populaires à trois heures de traversée de Stockholm, a de longues plages de sable fin et une infrastructure hôtelière de premier ordre, à Utö Värdshus. Là, vous trouverez aussi un fantastique restaurant fameux pour sa perche, son saumon et son flétan.

Les fêtards eux, se rendent sur Sandhamn, un havre pour les Stockholmois à la recherche d’amusement durant les mois d’été. Le bar à Seglarhotellet est un endroit idéal pour une sortie.

Si vous avez besoin de vous reconstituer après toutes ces agapes allez au Spa de style japonais, Yasuragi Hasseludden, sur l’île de Saltsjö-Boo.

Et pourquoi ne pas couronner votre tour avec une dégustation de haute cuisine à Oaxen Skärgårdskrog, sur l’île de Oaxen. On entend dire régulièrement que c’est le meilleur restaurant de toute la Suède.

NL » Eilandhoppen

Met zijn 24.000 eilanden beschikt Stockholm over heel wat troeven voor eilandhoppers.

Wie zoveel mogelijk wil zien, koopt best een Archipelago Card, die vijf dagen lang recht geeft op onbeperkte boottochten. De keuze is echter zo groot, dat je haast niet weet waar naartoe.

Voor gezinnen is Fjäderholmarna de ideale keuze. Met de ferry vanuit het centrum is het 25 minuten varen. Het speelplein, houten schip en de roomijsmakers Systrarna Degen Mat och Glasstuga in de buurt zullen de kinderen zeker bekoren. En waarom geen zwempartij nabij de kliffen in het zuiden en oosten van het eiland? Je krijgt er een spectaculair zicht op de baai van Stockholm bovenop.

Het eiland Utö zorgt dan weer voor een romantische noot en was een geliefkoosd toevluchtsoord van Greta Garbo. Deze populaire bestemming ten zuiden van de eilandengroep ligt op drie uur varen van Stockholm. Je vindt er lange zandstranden en luxueuze slaapgelegenheid in Utö Värdshus, met zijn fantastische restaurant beroemd om zijn baars-, zalm- en heilbotgerechten.

Feestneuzen kunnen terecht op het eiland Sandhamn, waar de Stockholmers in de zomer uit de bol gaan. De bar in Seglarhotellet is een goede keuze voor een nachtje uit.

Even tot rust komen na al dat feesten? Breng dan een bezoek aan het Japanse kuuroord Yasuragi Hasseludden op het eiland Saltsjö-Boo.

En waarom je eilandentocht niet afronden met de haute cuisine van Oaxen Skärgårdskrog, op het eiland Oaxen? Het werd al meermaals uitgeroepen tot beste restaurant van Zweden.

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