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Bruno Pieters

Brussels’ secret.
shopping

Belgian designer Bruno Pieters may have his headquarters in Antwerp, but he’s the man to speak to if you want the inside scoop on Brussels’ shopping and fashion scene

Images Kris Dewitte

While there are trend-setters and trend-spotters, Bruno Pieters is a trend-maker.

Fashion rarely moves in straight lines, and fashion designers are no different. Pieters, the creative director of Hugo Boss, also holds the distinction of being one of the designers for Europe’s oldest leather goods house, Delvaux, and in January he launched his first menswear collection, simply called Bruno Pieters. The fashion industry sat up and took notice, awarding Pieters the Andam Prize in Paris earlier this year. The annual grant is awarded to a promising fashion designer and is considered by many to be one of the most coveted awards in Europe. It is sponsored by the LVMH Group and L’Oréal.

Even powerhouse designers have taken note of his talent. Recently Karl Lagerfeld was commissioned by Madame Figaro magazine to organise a photo shoot featuring 30 of Paris’ most talented designers: Pieters was one of them.

Speaking on trends for men and women in the coming season, Pieters says: “I think the way fashion is going forward is quite minimalist, clean and architectural, with lots of detail. However, it’s all done in a subtle way. A few years ago, it was more extreme and decorative. For men, the change would be the same, but with a new silhouette, where it’s a bit more over-sized. Before, there was a slim, skinny look — that I still love and it’s still there – but there is a new kind of suit which is also evolving. It’s a bit more comfortable. For men and women, then, trend is what suits you. That’s what makes you look good and interesting.

I don’t believe so much in trends in general for everybody.”

Given the overabundance of choice on the fashion scene today, Pieters reckons both men and women can build a wardrobe on five ‘must-have’ items apiece. “From my collection, for men I would choose a white, 100% cashmere turtleneck sweater, a belt and a vest.”

A great tuxedo shirt and a dark brown Delvaux ‘Newspaper’ bag can round off the look. Naturally, looking at his collection to dress the trendy woman, Pieters says: “A black 100% cashmere turtleneck sweater, thigh-high tweed or black suede boots and a belt. Of course, a great black handbag – in particular, the one I designed for Delvaux called the ‘Leon’. Also a gray hand-knitted scarf – I love that look for winter.”

When most people think of fashion, Brussels isn’t usually spoken in the same sentence as London, Paris, New York or Hong Kong, but Pieters believes fashion is alive and kicking in the city. “I believe Rue Antoine Dansaert is a trendy area where there are some great shops for fashion such as the designer clothes store Stijl and shoe-store

Hatshoe, and also furniture. And there are several cafés and brasseries in the area.” For a bit of an artistic and musical scene, he suggests, try L’archiduc.

Several other stores are on his radar, which, he says, provide some of the best shopping in Brussels. “I love the Delvaux shop located on 27 Boulevard de Waterloo. This shop offers the most exquisite handmade bags, and it’s all manufactured in Brussels. If you come to Brussels, consider a Delvaux bag. My favourite style is still the ‘Brilliant’,” he smiles.

“While in Brussels I tend to always come home with a sweet little something from the bakery, Wittamer, located on the Sablon, or anything from the chocolatier Pierre Marcolini,” he adds.

Pieters notes that Belgian style can be quite distinctive. “I think now it’s become accepted, like a classic. Like you have London fashion, Paris fashion, Antwerp fashion, New York fashion. It’s something I think everybody realises is going to stay. It’s been around for at least 20 years.”

But in comparison to other European cities, he thinks style in Brussels is more focused on the individual and therein lies its strength. “Most designers have their own style. If there is one thing we have in common it’s our sense of reality. But overall, it’s very individual. It’s difficult to compare, and that’s what’s strong about it. Now, more and more, people in the business — press and buyers – are more interested in the individual than the nationality. I think that’s a good evolution,” he says.

Despite the obvious sentimental feelings Pieters has for Brussels, however, there are a few cities that obviously impress him. “Apart from New York, Paris and Antwerp, of course, I love cities where they love fashion. I love Tokyo, it’s a classic. It’s amazing, fashion-wise, what’s going on there. Hong Kong, this is one of my favourite cities – I love the skyline. Moscow, it’s a very ambitious and progressive city. It’s a city that wants to move forward, it’s young, it’s like a birth of something big.”

But what of himself – what is his own proudest achievement to date? Pieters gives a humble answer: “Ah… I’m just beginning. I can’t say.”

Need to know

Store recommendations…

■ Delvaux 27 Boulevard de Waterloo, tel.

■ Stijl 74 Rue Antoine Dansaert, tel.

■ Hatshoe 89a Rue Antoine Dansaert, tel.

■ Pierre Marcolini 1 Rue des Minimes, tel.

■ Wittamer Bakery 12 Place du Grand Sablon, tel.

FR>> Brussels’ secret shopping

Basé à Anvers, Bruno Pieters est le directeur créatif d’Hugo Boss, et designer pour l’une des plus anciennes marques de maroquinerie en Europe, la maison Delvaux. Il nous offre une visite guidée des tendances de cette saison et la liste des bonnes boutiques à Bruxelles.

“Je pense que la mode cette saison va être minimaliste, clean, et architecturale,” dit-il. “la tendance pour les hommes et les femmes est en fait ce qui vous va bien. C’est ce qui vous rend beau et intéressant. Je ne crois pas du tout aux tendances généralisées pour tous.”

Tout le monde, hommes et femmes, peut bâtir sa garde-robe à partir de cinq éléments ‘indispensables’. “Pour les hommes, je choisirais un pull-over à col roulé blanc, 100% cashmere, une ceinture et une veste,” confie-t-il, le tout couronné par une chemise Tuxedo et un sac Delvaux. Pour les femmes, “un pull-over à col roulé noir, 100% cashmere, des bottes cuissardes en tweed ou en daim noir et une ceinture. Et bien entendu, un grand sac noir et une écharpe tricotée main grise — j’adore ce look pour l’hiver.”

Pieters croit fermement que la mode est bien vivante et battante à Bruxelles: “la rue Antoine Dansaert est un quartier tendances où l’on trouve quelques magasins sublimes pour la mode comme la boutique de vêtements de stylistes Stijl et le magasin de chaussures Hatshoe. Le magasin Delvaux situé 27 Boulevard de Waterloo est génial, on y trouve les plus somptueux sacs faits mains. Mon préféré est le ‘Brilliant’,” sourit-il.

Selon lui, le style à Bruxelles est plus une question d’individualité et c’est là que réside sa force. “Dans ce business, les gens sont plus centrés sur l’individu que sur la nationalité,” poursuit-il, “et je crois que c’est une évolution positive.”

NL>> Brusselse winkelgeheimen

De in Antwerpen gevestigde Bruno Pieters is creatief directeur van Hugo Boss en designer voor Delvaux, het oudste lederwarenhuis in Europa. Hij geeft ons als insider enkele tips voor de nieuwe trends en de beste shoppingadressen in Brussel.

“Mode wordt dit seizoen minimalistisch, clean en architecturaal”, orakelt hij. “De trend voor mannen en vrouwen? Draag wat je staat. Dat maakt je mooi en interessant. Ik geloof niet zo in algemene trends voor iedereen.”

Zowel mannen als vrouwen, meent hij, kunnen hun garderobe baseren op vijf ‘onmisbare’ items. “Bij de mannen ga ik voor een witte, 100% kasjmieren coltrui, een riem en een vest. Aangevuld met een smokinghemd en een Delvauxtas. Voor vrouwen zie ik een zwarte 100% kasjmieren coltrui, dijhoge laarzen in tweed of zwarte daim en een riem. En natuurlijk een prachtige zwarte handtas en een grijze, met de hand gebreide sjaal. Ik ben dol op die winterlook.”

Pieters weet dat de mode floreert in Brussel: “De Antoine Dansaertstraat vormt het hart van een trendy wijk met fantastische modewinkels, zoals Stijl voor designerkleren en Hatshoe voor schoenen. Ik ben dol op de Delvauxwinkel in de Waterloosesteenweg nr. 27. Je vindt er de mooiste handgemaakte tassen. De ‘Brilliant’ is nog altijd mijn favoriet”, glimlacht hij.

In Brussel is stijl individueler en daarin schuilt volgens hem haar kracht. “De mensen in de sector kijken meer naar het individu dan naar de nationaliteit. En dat is een goede evolutie”, besluit hij.

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