Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Focus on Lisbon

Lisbon is a city with two faces: by day, a sedate and aristocratic dame, proud and cultured; by night, a sly seductress who’ll tempt you into the heart of her winding alleys

Text Chris Graeme Image Getty Images

Dial 1 for Portugal

Reclining majestically on the banks of the Tagus river and built on seven hills, Lisbon is a surprising mix of faded imperial elegance and inspiring avant-garde architecture. The combination of 18th- and 19th-century old with the shock of the new is startling, but, as with any good cocktail, the secret is in the blend.

Belém

Take, for example, Lisbon’s new modern art gallery in Belém. How often does an impresario decide to bestow his entire contemporary collection – containing works by Picasso, Warhol, Dalí, Magritte and Duchamp – to a city?

The José Berardo collection at the Centro Cultural de Belém (Praça do Império, www.museuberardo.pt) is an intimate collection of 300 works, giving an overview of the art movements of the 20th and 21st centuries. No visit to Lisbon is complete without seeing it.

The riverfront Praça do Império is the heart of Lisbon’s museum quarter, and you’ll need an entire day to soak up the sights. Surrounding the luscious gardens and fountain you’ll find the Jerónimos monastery and 16th-century Belém Tower (www.mosteirojeronimos.pt), both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as the recently revamped Calouste Gulbenkian planetarium (planetario.online.pt) and the National Archaeological Museum (www.mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt). At the nearby Monument to the Discoveries (Avenida de Brasília, www.padraodescobrimentos.egeac.pt) you can learn how the Portuguese explored Brazil, China, India and Africa.

After all that walking, sample Lisbon’s famous custard and cinnamon tarts at Pastéis de Belém (84-92 Rua de Belém, www.pasteisdebelem.pt). Fantastic views of the river can be seen from the palatial settings of the Hotel Pestana Palace (54 Rua Jau, tel. , www.pestana.com), while Hotel Lapa Palace (4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira, tel. , www.lapapalace.com) offers sheer Italianate luxury.

Baixa Chiado

Lisbon is famous for its shopping and nightlife. If smart, reasonably priced restaurants, trendy bars and frenetic nightclubs are what you’re after, the city won’t be found wanting.

The traditional Baixa Chiado district is groaning with trendy shops, smart boutiques, atmospheric cafés and bustling squares surrounded by imposing baroque churches. The area’s landmark hang-out is Café a Brasileira (120 Rua Garrett), one-time haunt of poets, artists, writers and political thinkers. When it comes to lunch, why not try the high-class international and Portuguese cuisine at São Carlos National Opera’s open-air restaurant (Largo de São Carlos), or take a break from shopping and go Italian at Pizzeria Mezzogiorno (19 Rua Garrett). If cheap and cheerful local grub is more your thing, Restaurante Adega da Condessa (52-54 Rua da Condessa) is unlikely to disappoint.

Hotel Dom Afonso Henriques (8 Rua Cristóvão Falcão, tel. ) and Hotel Íbis Lisboa José Malhoa (Avenue José Malhoa, tel. , www.accorhotel.com) are modern and reasonably priced gateways into this part of Lisbon.

Bairro Alto

Lisbon’s nightlife beckons from 9pm onwards. Just a stone’s throw from Chiado are the narrow, winding alleys of Bairro Alto, so choc-a-bloc with bars and eateries you’ll be spoilt for choice.

By day, you can get a taste of how Lisbon used to be, with a visit to the fruit and vegetable sellers. There are also plenty of funky shops – Tom Tom Shop (4 Rua do Seculo) and Fake Lisbon (113 Rua do Norte), in particular, are quirky and fun.

At night, after the shutters go down, the area has an intimate yet electrically charged atmosphere. If you’re looking for local food, Pap’Açorda (57-59 Rua da Atalaia), Antigo Restaurante 1º de Maio (8 Rua da Atalaia) and Restaurante Calcutá (17-19 Rua do Norte) won’t break the bank and serve great cuisine. Good bars to head for include Sétimo Céu (54 Travessa da Espera) and Jürgen’s Bar (68 Rua do Diário de Notícias, www.jurgensbar.com).

Hotel Marquês de Pombal (243 Avenida da Liberdade, tel. , www.hotel-marquesdepombal.pt) and Hotel Sofitel Lisboa (127 Avenida da Liberdade, tel. , www.sofitel.com) are both modern and conveniently situated for Lisbon’s nightlife.

Docas and Tagus waterfront

There are nightclubs to cater for every taste – straight and gay, garage, disco, funk, grunge and ethnic – across Lisbon, but the best are found dotted along the riverfront between Santa Apolónia and Santos stations.

Kremlin (5 Rua Escadinhas da Praia, www.kremlin-k.com), Lux (Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, www.luxfragil.com), Kapital (68 Avenida 24 de Julho) and Plateau (7 Rua Escadinhas da Praia) are recommended. You can enjoy a night of live 80s music at Xafarix (69 Avenida Dom Carlos I). For the gay scene, head to glamorous Trumps (104 Rua da Imprensa Nacional).

High-class Portuguese eating is to be had at Bico do Sapato (Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazem B) and Alcântara Café (15 Rua Maria Luísa Holstein, www.alcantaracafe.com), with its fusion of grey industrial functionality and red-velvet plush. Lyrical waterfront views are on offer from the Hotel Vila Galé Ópera (Travessa Conde da Ponte, tel. , www.vilagale.pt).

Baixa Pombalina

Get a taste of Lisbon’s imperial past by heading to the Baixa Pombalina downtown area, which is graced with elegant, fountain-cooled squares, 18th-century ministerial buildings and imposing monuments. This is one of the best places to walk, taking you though the heart of the capital and one of its best shopping districts.

Take the Metro to Rossio and stroll through Rossio Square (formally known as Praça de Dom Pedro IV), Praça do Comércio with Lisbon’s City Council building, Praça de Figueira and Praça dos Restauradores. All within 15 minutes’ walk of each other, these monumental squares echo with 900 years of history and are surrounded by elegant cafés. Among these are Pastelaria Suiça (96-104 Praça Dom Pedro IV/Rossio, casasuica.pt), serving mouthwatering cream cakes and pastries, and Confeitaria Nacional (18b Praça da Figueira, www.confeitarianacional.com).

From Praça da Figueira, enjoy the magnificent view of the ancient Moorish Castle of São Jorge (www.castelosaojorge.egeac.pt). From Rossio you can see the ruins of Igreja do Carmo (Largo do Carmo), the church that stands as an eerie reminder of the black Sunday in November 1755 when Lisbon was struck by Europe’s most devastating earthquake.

Between Rossio and Praça dos Restauradores, note the newly renovated Rossio Station with its ornate neo-Manueline façade. In Restauradores itself, take a look at the the fabulous Art Deco building housing the VIP Eden Hotel.

Hotel Fénix Lisboa (8 Praça Marquês de Pombal, tel. , www.fenixlisboa.com) and Lisboa Regency Chiado (114 Rua Novo do Almada, tel. , www.regency-hotels-resorts.com) are perfect bases in the heart of this monumental city.

Modern and traditional, Lisbon has a reputation for hosting premier international events, from the announcement of the new Seven Wonders of the World, the Rock in Rio-Lisbon music festival and World Expo 98, to UEFA Euro 2004 and the Lisbon-Dakar Rally. Now the city is setting its sight on a bid for the 2016 Olympics.

FR>> Gros plan sur Lisbonne

Belém La galerie d’art moderne à Belém a récemment reçu une dotation de 300 œuvres de Picasso, de Dalí et plus encore. C’est sur les rives du fleuve que vous trouverez le quartier le plus riche en musées ainsi que les jardins et les fontaines du monastère Renaissance des Jéronimos. Goûtez les fameuses tartes de Lisbonne à la cannelle et à la crème anglaise, à Pasteis de Belém, et profitez d’une superbe vue depuis le somptueux Hôtel Carlton Palace.

Baixa Chiado Ce quartier traditionnel regorge de boutiques tendances et de cafés. L’endroit incontournable du coin est le café Brasileira, autrefois lieu de prédilection des poètes, des artistes, des écrivains et des penseurs.

Bairro Alto Le centre de la vie nocturne de Lisbonne, bien que le jour, on y trouve une kyrielle d’échoppes bien achalandées en fruits juteux et de magasins en vogue. Parmi les bars, on recense le Paginas Tantos, inspiré du blues des années 1940, à côté de cela les hôtels Marques de Pombal et Sofitel Lisboa sont deux établissements modernes, très bien situés.

Docas & Tagus Waterfront Les meilleurs clubs de la ville sont disséminés le long des quais entre les gares de Santa Apolonia et de Santos. On vous recommande Kremlin, Lux et Kapital. Pour une cuisine portugaise de haut standing, allez au Café Alcântara, un mélange tranché de style industriel gris fonctionnel et de velours rouge luxueux.

Baixa Pombalina Retrouvez un goût de l’ancienne Lisbonne impériale en vous dirigeant au cœur du centre historique de la ville, à Baixa Pombalina, un lieu où dominent la grâce et l’élégance, avec des places dotées de fontaines, des bâtiments ministériels du 18e siècle et d’imposants monuments. De là, vous bénéficierez d’une vue magnifique sur l’ancien château maure de St. Jorge.

NL>> Focus op Lissabon

Belém Het centrum voor moderne kunst in Belém kreeg net een collectie van 300 Picasso’s, Dalí’s en andere meesters. Aan de rivier vind je naast de interessantste musea van de stad ook de tuinen en fontein van het renaissanceklooster Jeronimos. Proef de beroemde puddingtaartjes met kaneel in Pasteis de Belém en geniet van het uitzicht in het luxueuze Hotel Carlton Palace.

Baixa Chiado In deze traditionele wijk vind je trendy winkels, boetieks en cafés. Het oriëntatiepunt is Brasileira, ooit de geliefkoosde bar van dichters, kunstenaars, schrijvers en politieke denkers.

Bairro Alto Deze wijk vol verleidelijke fruitkraampjes en trendy winkels is eigenlijk het hart van het nachtleven in Lissabon. Een leuke bar is de Paginas Tantos, een bluesbar met jaren veertig uitstraling. Hotel Marques de Pombal en Hotel Sofitel Lisboa zijn twee moderne, goed gelegen hotels.

Docas en de oevers van de Taag De beste clubs liggen aan de Taag tussen de haltes Apolonia en Santos. Kremlin, Lux en Kapital kunnen we aanbevelen. Ga naar Alcântara Café voor de betere Portugese keuken. Het interieur combineert industriële functionaliteit met rood fluweel.

Baixa Pombalina Voor een vleugje grandeur uit Lissabons roemrijke verleden trek je naar de wijk Baixa Pombalina. Je vindt er elegante pleinen met verfrissende fonteinen, statige, 18de-eeuwse overheidsgebouwen en indrukwekkende monumenten. Je hebt er ook een uitstekend zicht op het oude Moorse São Jorge-kasteel.

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