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Join the parade

CITY EVENT BINCHE

Text Renée Cordes

At the beginning of February, the Belgian town of Binche throws a world-famous carnival and Mardi Gras celebration

Since the Middle Ages, the town of Binche in west Belgium – just a short trip from Brussels – has held an annual festival. Known in French as Carnaval de Binche (from the Latin words “carne” or meat, and “levare”, to raise), it’s held just before Lent, the 40-day period between Ash Wednesday and Holy Thursday.

There are differing accounts of the first Binche carnival, but the best-known occurred in 1549, when Charles V entered the town with his full Spanish court. The merrymaking lasted seven days. The glory period of carnivals ended when Henry II of France took possession of Binche in 1554. However, the tradition was later revived and today attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors.

The carnival is by far the biggest cultural event in this working-class town, honoured in 2003 by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Members of Belgium’s royal family often attend.

For Binche residents the celebrations start the previous Monday, but in 2008 the main festivities take place on 3 to 5 February – Dimanche Gras, Lundi Gras and the grand finale on Shrove Tuesday, Mardi Gras.

There will be parades and street festivities on all three days, but it’s only on Mardi Gras (‘fat Tuesday’) that the Gilles come out in their elaborate hand-sewn costumes, which are made new each year. Only males born in Binche or to a member of a Binche family are allowed to be Gilles, and they must obey strict rules. They have to stick together, must always be accompanied by drums and aren’t allowed to smoke or eat in public. A Gille isn’t allowed to leave the city or participate in pageants elsewhere, either. The only exception was made for the 1958 World Exposition in Brussels.

During the Mardi Gras parade, Gilles throw blood oranges to the public – a symbol of springtime and warmth. Houses in town put up chicken wire to protect their windows. You should never throw back an orange you’ve caught – it’s considered bad luck.

The celebrations last until midnight, ending with a giant firework display. The following day, the planning for next year’s shindig begins.

Don’t miss…

Attractions in Binche and the surrounding area

1 Musée International du Carnaval et du Masque

10 Rue Saint Moustier, www.museedumasque.be
An impressive collection of masks and costumes from all corners of the globe. Until 6 April 2008, there’s a special exhibition on masks in comic strips.

2 Brasserie La Binchoise

38 Faubourg Saint Paul, www.brasserielabinchoise.be
A small but well known brewery with an on-site museum and tavern-restaurant. Its most famous product features Gilles on the label.

3 Hôtel de Ville

Grand’Place, www.binche.be
Binche’s stately town hall with 14th-century origins, has a belfry that’s on UNESCO’s world heritage list.

4 Centre de la Dentelle et des Métiers d’Art

‘Le Fuseau’, 25/1 Grand’Place, www.dentelledebinche.be
Pays homage to Binche’s lacemaking tradition. Characterised by a kind of snowy pattern, Binche lace was quite the fashion before the French Revolution and was immortalised in Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables.

5 Château de Seneffe

7-9 Rue Lucien Plasma, www.chateaudeseneffe.be
Built in the 18th century and one of Hainaut province’s main tourist attractions, the Château is surrounded by a 22-hectare park that feels miles away from civilisation.

6 Musée Gallo-Romain de Waudrez

14 Chaussée Romaine, Waudrez, www.viaromana.org
Housed in a renovated farm on an old Roman site this museum has an impressive collection of artefacts, including pottery, coins and ceramics.

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