Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Insider: Moscow

Moscow is Europe’s capital of bling, having built a reputation for unparalleled hedonism and stunning visual excess

Moscow is the undisputed epicentre of Russia, where the ambitious emigrate and the wealth accumulates, an 850-year-old city with a reputation for hard winters and hard-line politics. And as the petrodollars keep rolling in, Moscow’s luxury market continues to expand – when it comes to decadance, the Russian capital continues to raises the bar. If it’s conspicuous consumption you’re after, there’s certainly no shortage of ways in which to spend your money here.

KUZNETSKY MOST

The titular most (bridge) is long gone, but this upscale neighbourhood’s reputation for opulence endures. It remains packed with exclusive boutiques and high-end shopping centres, like TsUM (2 Petrovka Ulitsa) and Petrovsky Passazh (10 Petrvoka Ulitsa), which are both housed in recently renovated finde-siecle buildings. Current star of 5 660-0706) – if you do manage to bag a table, you may well find yourself rubbing shoulders with the likes of Roman Abramovich. Further up Petrovka Ulitsa is Stoleshnikov Pereulok, a pedestrian lane that’s home to some high-profile residents – including Jimmy Choo, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton. Unlike many of the boutiques along Stoleshnokov, Denis Simachev Shop & Bar (12/2 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, tel. ) stocks home-grown Russian labels. There’s also a 24-hour bar here. Otherwise, Gogol (11 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, tel. ) is a bohemian anomaly in a sea of Gucci and Prada. As you continue down Petrovka, brace yourself for the most ominous of Moscow addresses – Petrovka 28, the Moscow Interior Ministry. Hopefully, your itinerary won’t include a trip to this infamous building.

KROPOTKINSKAYA

The art nouveau buildings on Ostozhenka (otherwise known as the ‘Golden Mile’) are some of Moscow’s most sought-after addresses. The street stretches down from Kropotkinskaya metro station, which, on its construction in 1935, received several architectural awards. The first gold you’ll see upon exiting the station are the dazzling domes of Christ the Saviour Cathedral. They’re in such good condition because the church was only completed in 2000, having been modelled on a 19th-century church that was demolished by Stalin. For a scenic view of the cathedral and, further on, the Kremlin, go up to the rooftop terrace at Casual (3 Obydensky Pereulok, tel.  
). Formerly Snobs, the restaurant’s new name is a tongue-in-cheek jab at its non-democratic pretensions. However, the crown jewel in Kropotkinskaya’s culinary scene is boisterous Georgian joint Genatsvale VIP (12 Ostozhenka Ulitsa, tel. ). Head here for a feast of salty suluguni cheese, savoury meats and sweet Georgian wine.

SAVVINSKAYA NABEREZHNAYA

Up until recently, people only visited this riverside neighbourhood to see the Novodevichy Convent. By day the convent, where many female members of the royal family were imprisoned, still packs them in. But after dark, the restaurants and clubs that line the embankment road Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya have started pulling in the crowds. Moscow’s current obsession is Italian food, and Bistrot (12/8 Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya, tel. ) is a near-perfect replica of a restaurant in Italian resort town Forte de Marni. Another burgeoning trend is industrial chic; many establishments on the embankment are converted buildings that were originally part of a 19th-century silk factory. The loft-style Soho Rooms (12 Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya, tel. ) are giving The MOST a serious run for its money in the style stakes. Don’t despair if they tell you to go home and change – just down the street, 1171 (21 Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya, tel. ) is a huge warehouse club with enough space for everyone.

KUTUZOVSKY PROSPEKT

One sign that you’ve made it in Moscow is being able to move onto Kutuzovsky Prospekt, an affluent residential district that provides a straight-arrow commute to the centre of town. The area is centred round Victory Park, a sombre monument to the many wars Russia has fought and won. The Triumph Gate over the avenue commemorates the Russian victory against the Turks in 1829. These days, military victory seems less important than new wealth. Designer boutiques line the streets, and the glitzy Vremena Goda Shopping Centre (48 Kutuzovsky Prospekt) has recently shot up to accommodate the needs of Moscow’s increasingly big spenders. As you’d expect, there’s plenty of good restaurants around. Tapping into the current trend for all things Italian, Vremena Goda’s Bocconcino (tel.  
) has imported its chef, and all its ingredients, from Italy. And the world-renowned Red Bar (23a Tarasa Shevchenko Naberezhnaya, tel. ) has some of the best views of the city. However, residents here do have to deal with the minor inconvenience of the roads being shut down every time the Russian President is driven home. He heads past Kutuzovksy Prospekt to even more prosperous pastures – Rublyovka, where Moscow’s truly rich reside.

RUBLYOVKA

Rublyovka is almost like a Muscovite version of the Hamptons, minus the sand and sea. Located in picturesque woods north-west of the city, it was traditionally the summer retreat of Tsarist nobility. But in Soviet times, land plots in Rublyovka were distributed to ordinary people. They’re still here, tending their chickens, while their filthy-rich neighbours’ Mercedes roar in and out of the gleaming Barvikha Luxury Village (Rublevo-Uspenskoye Shosse, 114th meter). In this futuristic complex you can buy anything from Bulgari jewellery to Ferraris. Two restaurants worth visiting are Veranda u Dachi (70 Rublevo-Uspenskoe Shosse, Zhukovka, tel. ) and Tsarskaya Okhota (Rublevo-Uspenskoe shosse, Zhukovka, 186a, tel. ). Despite being modelled on a rustic summer cottage and a 19th-century hunter’s cabin, respectively, they’re both extremely expensive.

Where to stay

The Metropol (1/4 Teatralny Proezd, tel. , metropol-moscow.ru) is situated just off Red Sqaure. Built in 1901, this art nouveau hotel has played host to legions of famous guests, including Michael Jackson and Jacques Chirac. But its claim to fame remains the fact that, at the time of opening, it was the only hotel in Russia with hot water, refrigerators and telephones! Rest assured, it’s slightly better-appointed these days.

If you’re planning on a day of shopping in Kuznetsky Most, you might as well stay in the thick of things. The Savoy Hotel (3 Rozhdestvenskaya Ulitsa, tel. , savoy.ru), is also set in an art nouveau building, and comes with an ornate rococo interior. With only 67 rooms, it’s intimate and quiet. As with all hotels in the immediate vicinity of the Kremlin, its rates are rather steep – but in this case the service is worth every rouble.

If you want to up the opulent ante, treat yourself to a stay at the five-star Baltschug Kempinski (1 Balchug Ulitsa, tel. , kempinski-moscow.com). Located on the banks of the Moskva, across from the Kremlin, it enjoys unparalleled

FR Gros plan sur Moscou

Moscou est l’épicentre incontesté de la Russie. C’est là que les personnalités ambitieuses émigrent et où la richesse s’accumule, une ville de 850 ans d’âge où il faut travailler dur pour réussir, dans un climat politique autoritaire. Et sous la flambée des pétrodollars, le marché du luxe à Moscou continue son expansion – sur la question de la décadence, la capitale russe l’emporte haut et fort. Si vous recherchez un univers de consommation ostentatoire, ici vous ne manquerez pas d’occasions de dépenser votre argent.

Kuznetsky Most

La star en vogue du quartier central de la mode à Moscou est The MOST (6/3 Kuznetsky Most Ulitsa, tél. 5 660-0706) – si vous parvenez à mettre la main sur une table, vous pourriez bien vous retrouver en compagnie de personnalités comme le milliardaire Roman Abramovich.

Kropotkinskaya

Les immeubles Art Nouveau d’ Ostozhenka figurent parmi les adresses de Moscou les plus recherchées. Le joyau de la scène culinaire de Kropotkinskaya est le restaurant géorgien bruyant Genatsvale VIP (12 Ostozhenka Ulitsa, tél. ). Allez-y pour une fête de fromage salé suluguni, de viandes savoureuses et de vin doux de Georgie.

Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya

L’obsession du moment à Moscou se concentre sur la cuisine italienne et Bistrot (12/8 Savvinskaya Naberezhnaya, tél. ) est une réplique presque parfaite d’un lieu qui se trouve dans l’une des villes côtières d’Italie, Forte de Marni. Une autre tendance émergente est l’industriel chic; de nombreux établissements sur les berges sont convertis, notamment ceux qui étaient à l’origine au XIXe siècle des usines de fabrication de la soie.

Kutuzovsky Prospekt

Les boutiques de designers s’alignent à front de rue et le brillant Vremena Goda Shopping Centre (48 Kutuzovsky Prospekt) s’est récemment agrandi pour pouvoir gérer la demande d’une clientèle moscovite très fortunée, qui ne cesse de croître. Le Red Bar de renommée internationale (23a Tarasa Shevchenko Naberezhnaya, tél.  
) a certaines des plus belles vues sur la ville.

Rublyovka

Rublyovka est comme une version moscovite des Hamptons, ce lieu de vacances paradisiaque moins le sable et la mer. Dans le Barvikha Luxury Village (Rublevo-Uspenskoye Shosse, 114th meter) vous pouvez tout acheter depuis des bijoux Bulgari jusqu’à des Ferraris.

NL Moskou binnenstebuiten

Moskou is het onbetwiste epicentrum van Rusland voor wie ambitie heeft en poen wil scheppen. De 850 jaar oude stad staat bekend voor haar strenge winters en haar politiek van de harde lijn. Naarmate de petrodollars toestromen, wordt de markt van luxeproducten in Moskou steeds groter. De decadentie tiert in de Russische hoofdstad steeds weliger. Wil je je geld zonder schroom laten rollen, dan vind je hier mogelijkheden te over.

Koeznetski Most The MOST is dé sterlocatie in de centrale modewijk van Moskou (Oelitsa Koeznetski Most 6/3, 660-0706). Wie erin slaagt een tafeltje te bemachtigen, verkeert onder groten der aarde zoals Roman Abramovitsj.

Kropotkinskaja

De art-nouveaugebouwen in Ostozjenka behoren tot de meest gegeerde adressen in Moskou. Het kroonjuweel van de culinaire geneugten in Kropotkinskaja is de levendige Georgische tent Genatsvale VIP (Ostozjenka oelitsa 12, tel. ). Het ideale adres voor een feestmaal van gezouten sulugunikaas, smakelijke vleesgerechten en zoete Georgische wijn.

Savvinskaja Naberezjnaja

Momenteel zweert zowat heel Moskou bij de Italiaanse keuken. Bistrot (Savvinskaja Naberezjnaja 12/8, tel. ) is een vrijwel perfecte replica van een gelijkaardig etablissement in het Italiaanse vakantiestadje Forte dei Marni. Nog een opkomende trend is de industriële chic. Heel wat etablissementen aan de oever van de Moskva zijn ondergebracht in de gerenoveerde gebouwen van een 19de-eeuwse zijdefabriek.

Koetoezovski Prospekt

Hier vind je de ene designerboetiek na de andere. Daar is onlangs het blitse Vremena Goda Shopping Centre (Koetoezovski Prospekt 48) aan toegevoegd om de groeiende schare Moskouse megaconsumenten ter wille te zijn. De wereldberoemde Red Bar (Tarasa Sjevtsjenko Naberezjnaja 23a, tel. ) biedt zowat het beste uitzicht op de stad.

Roebljovka

Roebljovka is Moskous versie van The Hamptons, maar dan zonder zee en zand. In Barvikha Luxury Village (RoebljovoOespenskoje Sjosse 114) is alles te koop, van Bulgari-juwelen tot Ferrari’s.

Text Sonya Rinkus

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