Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Insider: Prague

Take advantage of the fine weather to explore Prague’s mix of architectural styles, then reward your efforts with a cool pilsner

Text Guy Dittrich

Prague

CZECH REPUBLIC

I LOVE PRAGUE

“I feel so lucky to live in one of the world’s most romantic cities. There can be few more idyllic activitie s than strolling across the Charles Bridge at dawn when the mis ts are lifting and before it g ets busy. This is one of my favourite spots.” Katarina
(hotel executive)

“We have the best of both worlds here. The ancient history is lived at every corner, but we also ha ve a progressive government that’s taking us forward. Things are really moving since we joined the EU.”
Jan (Czech investor)

“Prague has all the big international brands, concert halls and museums you’d expect of a capital city, but also the peacefulness of many green parks. Contemplating life on the benches in Valdstejn Palace and Garden is hard to beat.” Barbora
(architect)

“There is so much to see and do in Prague, and it doesn’t have to cost a fortune. There are often free concerts at small venues around the castle, and I love to take the No.22 tram because it goes past so many tourist sights.”
Pavla (classical music student)

The historic heart of Prague straddles the Vltava river and is dominated by the rocky outcrop of Hradcany, home to Prague Castle. Below are the largely preserved medieval streets of Malá Strana (Lesser Town) and, across the Charles Bridge, Staré Mesto (Old Town). These cobbled roads lead to the countless picture-postcard attractions made possible by the city’s fabulously preserved buildings. No wonder Prague makes frequent star appearances in period dramas.

It’s with good reason that Prague is also known as ‘the city of 100 spires’ – it sometimes seems as if there’s a church around every corner. But the city’s trump card is its unparalleled architectural heritage. It’s home to some of the finest examples of medieval, romanesque, gothic, renaissance, baroque, art nouveau, nationalist and cubist architecture in the world, to say nothing of more modern intrusions. In fact, you may find the cheek-by-jowl nature of it all gets a little overwhelming at times.

HRADCANY & MALÁ STRANA

It’s a fair walk up steep cobbled streets to Prague Castle in Hradcany, but try to time your visit for noon to catch the blue-uniformed conscripts marching through the changing of the guard. While you’re up there, visit the peaceful lawns of the former deer gardens beneath Powder Bridge. The elliptical pedestrian tunnel is a hidden delight.

Lying beneath the castle, on the apron of Malá Strana, is Malostranské Námesti, a square with a number of restaurants and bars. The coffee and cake at Cukrkavalimonada (7 Lázenská, tel. , cukrkavalimonada. cz) aren’t to be missed. For authentic Czech cuisine, big on duck and venison, try the whimsical homeliness of U Modré Kachnicky (6 Nebovidská, tel.
, umodrekachnicky.cz). Bohemian crystal is famous across the world, and glass tourist tat is touted on almost every corner in Prague.

For a more considered approach, and something you’ll actually want when you get home, the heavyweight lead crystal creations of Tomáš Kysela at his store Material (7 U Lužického Semináre, tel. , i-material.com) are just the job. They’re not cheap but they won’t break the bank either, and everything is packaged for home delivery, so it couldn’t be easier.

STARÉ MESTO & JOSEFOV

While it’s probably blasphemous to describe a church as Disneyesque, Our Lady Before Týn church (Staromestské Námestí) is just that.

Its spiky gothic towers are visible from across the city. The church is an ideal starting place for a tour of neighbouring sights, including the Astronomical Clock and the Jan Hus monument.

Just around the corner on Elišky Krásnohorské are fabulous examples of cubist architecture rarely found elsewhere in the world. To experience this architectural style for yourself, take a coffee at Grand Café Orient (19 Ovocný Trh, tel. , grandcafeorient.cz), located in the House of the Black Madonna upstairs from the Cubist Museum.

No trip to Prague is complete without sampling the local brews. For the most authentic experience – and beer served in typical dimpled glass tankards – try Pivnice U Zlatého Tygra (17 Husova, uzlatehotygra.cz), or the Golden Tiger Pub. Watch out for fresh beers arriving without you ordering; there’s a tacit assumption you’ll continue drinking.

Josefov, the old Jewish quarter, is the location of Parížská, the equivalent of London’s Bond Street and home to luxury fashion brands from Armani to Zegna. For those on a smaller budget, the area also offers a wealth of local boutiques. Designers in and around the streets of Dlouhá and Dušní have formed a marketing collective, the Czech Fashion Centre (czechfashion. cz), to promote themselves. Try Klára Nademlýnská (3 Dlouhá, tel. , klaranademlynska.cz), Timoure et Group (6 V Kolkovne, tel. , timoure.cz) or Boheme (8 Dušní, tel. , boheme.cz) for a look no one will have back home. Contemplate your purchases and passers-by over a delicious gelato from the best ice cream parlour in town, Cremeria Milano (20 Parížská).

To experience the splendour of art nouveau interiors at their majestic best,

Francouzská a Plzenská restaurant (5 Námestí Republiky, tel. , francouzskarestaurace.cz) is hard to beat. European classics of steak and fish fillets, plus plenty of Czech staples involving duck, are on the menu at this grand dining hall, where food is just part of the scene.

ŽIŽKOV & VINOHRADY

There’s quite a contrast between the gritty realism of Žižkov and the gradual gentrification of the bourgeois townhouses on the former vineyard slopes of Vinohrady. This is neatly summed up by the earthiness of Avim Praha shooting range (23 Sokolovska, tel. , avim.cz) in Žižkov and the beautiful Mario Wild florist shop (23 Vinohradská, wildflowers.cz) in Vinohrady. Žižkov is home to two of the city’s more visible landmarks. In keeping with the seemingly compulsory addition to the skyline of former communist bloc capitals is Žižkov television tower (1 Mahlerovy Sady, tower.cz). Nearby is the monolithic National Monument (Vitkov Hill) to fallen comrades.

For some of the best Italian food in town, try Aromi Enoteca con Cucina (78 Mánesova, tel. , aromi.cz) in Vinohrady. It’s popular, so book early. Also in Vinohrady, but with something of a Žižkov edge, is Radost FX (120 Belehradská, radostfx.cz), a nightclub with eclectic but basic interiors appealing to an audience for whom the drink of choice is Red Bull and Becherovka, the local firewater.

NOVÉ MESTO & VYŠEHRAD

The commercial heart of Prague centres on Nové Mesto (New Town), which drifts south towards the lesser-know castle Vyšehrad. On the way, don’t miss The Dancing House (80 Rašínovo Nábreží), a truly modern swirl by Vlado Milunic and Frank Gehry. For a close-up look, try the top-floor restaurant, La Perle de Prague (tel. , laperle.cz).

For Czech cuisine, V Zátiší (1 Liliová, Betlémské Námestí, tel. , vzatisi.cz) is an excellent choice. The stylish interiors are memorable thanks to the wall of books with their pages rather than spines showing.

Where to stay

To experience baroque, renaissance and gothic architecture first hand, look no further than the luxuriously appointed interiors at Mandarin Oriental Prague (459/1 Nebovidská, tel. , mandarinoriental. com/prague). The hotel attracts a somewhat younger audience than you would expect from the prices.

UK-based, Czech-born Eva Jiricna has created two sister hotels in Josefov: Hotel Josef (20 Rybná, tel. , hoteljosef.com) and Hotel Maximilian (14 Haštalská, tel. , maximilianhotel.com). Both are modernist, comfortably stylish venues built around existing courtyards.

Hotel U Trí Cápu (20/16 Tomášská, tel. , utricapu.cz), or At the Three Storks, is a beautifully proportioned modern hotel within a renaissance-style building that sits right under the castle walls in Malá Strana. The 20 guest rooms are furnished with bright Ron Arad pieces beneath preserved timber-framed ceilings.

For a funky, mid-price option with more Tom Dixon mirror-ball lamps than you thought feasibly possible, look no further than Hotel Yasmin (913/12 Politických Veznu, tel. , hotel-yasmin.cz). Linked by an arcade to Wenceslas Square, it guarantees access to one of the city’s top attractions, yet is peaceful at the same time.

FR Gros plan sur Prague

Les ruelles labyrinthiques du centre historique de Prague conduisent à un nombre incalculable de petites boutiques de cartes postales, des attractions rendues possibles grâce aux bâtiments incroyablement préservés. La ville abrite certains des plus beaux fleurons de l’architecture dans le monde, médiévale, romane, gothique, renaissance, baroque, art nouveau et cubiste, sans parler des intrusions plus modernes.

Hradcany & Malá Strana L’ascension est éprouvante jusqu’au Château de Prague à Hradcany, mais profitez pleinement de votre escalade pour visiter les anciens jardins du cerf sous Powder Bridge. L’Hôtel U Trí Cápu (20/16 Tomášská) est un établissement moderne aux espaces parfaitement dessinés, avec un intérieur de type renaissance, situé sous les murs du château à Malá Strana (ville basse). Non loin, Malostranské Námesti est une place où se concentre une variété de restaurants et de bars. Pour un café et des gâteaux essayez Cukrkavalimonada (7 Lázenská).

Staré Mesto & Josefov Les tours élancées de l’Eglise Notre-Dame-de-Týn (Staromestské Námestí) à Staré Mesto (vieille ville) sont visibles de n’importe quelle partie de la ville. Pour le shopping, dirigezvous dans l’ancien quartier juif, Josefov, qui offre une riche palette de boutiques, comme Klára Nademlýnská (3 Dlouhá) et Timoure et Group (6 V Kolkovne). Les hôtels associés, l’Hôtel Josef (20 Rybná) et l’Hôtel Maximilian (14 Haštalská) se trouvent également dans le quartier.

Žižkov & Vinohrady Žižkov abrite les deux repères les plus emblématiques de la ville : la tour de la télévision Žižkov (1 Mahlerovy Sady) et le monolithique Monument National (Vitkov Hill). Pour goûter une des meilleures cuisines italiennes de la capitale, essayez Aromi Enoteca con Cucina (78 Mánesova) à Vinohrady.

Nové Mesto & Vyšehrad Le cœur commercial du centre-ville se situe dans Nové Mesto (nouvelle ville), qui s’étend au sud vers le château moins connu, l’édifice en ruine Vyšehrad. En chemin, ne ratez pas La maison qui danse (80 Rašínovo Nábreží), une contorsion moderne réalisée par Vlado Milunic et Frank Gehry.

Terminez votre journée par un plat de la fine cuisine tchèque et un bon cru au restaurant V Zátiší (1 Liliová, Betlémské Námestí).

FR NL Insider Praag

De kasseistraatjes in het historische centrum van Praag leiden naar ontelbare postkaarttaferelen waaraan de wonderlijk bewaard gebleven gebouwen gestalte geven. Hier vind je enkele van de mooiste voorbeelden uit de middeleeuwse, romaanse, gotische, renaissancistische, barokke, art nouveau en kubistische architectuur ter wereld, om nog maar te zwijgen van de meer moderne indringers!

Hradcany & Malá Strana Is de wandeling naar het Kasteel van Praag in Hradcany iets te steil voor je? Ga dan zeker naar de vroegere hertentuinen onder de Kruitbrug. Hotel U Trí Cápu (Tomášská 20/16) is een prachtig geproportioneerd modern hotel met een renaissance-interieur, en dat net onder de kasteelmuren in Malá Strana (de Kleine Zijde). Vlak bij Malostranské Námesti ligt een plein met diverse restaurants en cafés. Voor koffie en gebak moet je dan weer in Cukrkavalimonada (Lázenská 7) zijn.

Staré Mesto & Josefov De puntige torens van de kerk van Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-Týn (Staromestské Námestí) in Staré Mesto (Oude Stad) zijn overal in de stad zichtbaar. Winkelen doe je in de oude Joodse wijk Josefov. Het gebied telt een schat aan boetiekjes, zoals Klára Nademlýnská (Dlouhá 3) en Timoure et Group (V Kolkovne 6). Ook de zusterhotels Hotel Josef (Rybná 20) en Hotel Maximilian (Haštalská 14) vind je hier.

Žižkov & Vinohrady In Žižkov prijken twee meer zichtbare monumenten: de Žižkovtelevisietoren (Mahlerovy Sady 1) en het monolithische Nationale Monument (Vitkovheuvel). Trek in Italiaans? Dan moet je zeker Aromi Enoteca con Cucina (Mánesova 78) in Vinohrady uitproberen!

Nové Mesto & Vyšehrad Het commerciële hart van de stad klopt in Nové Mesto (Nieuwe Stad), dat in zuidelijke richting uitdeint naar het minder bekende kasteel van de stad, het vervallen Vyšehrad. Mis onderweg Het Dansende Huis (Rašínovo Nábreží 80) niet, een modern folietje van de hand van Vlado Milunic en Frank Gehry. Rond de dag af met de verfijnde Tsjechische keuken en wijn van V Zátiší (Liliová 1, Betlémské Námestí).

Leave a Reply