Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Insider: Geneva

Text Lou McMullen
Image Alamy

With its inspiring scenery, meandering backstreets, great ethnic cuisine and lively nightlife, what more could you ask for in a city

Geneva
SWITZERLAND

I♥ GENEVA

“It’s great because you have the advantages of a city, while also having the countryside, mountains, and lake for sports such as swimming, sailing, walking and snow sports”

Ruth Creamer
(librarian)

I♥ GENEVA

“Geneva is a four-season town. In the summer, sailing; in winter, skiing. In between there are the restaurants, clubs and a multicultural society where you can integrate or learn about any other nationality or country in the world”

Kirsty Griffiths
(opera singer)

I♥ GENEVA

“It’s great because you have the advantages of a city, while also having the countryside, mountains, and lake for sports such as swimming, sailing, walking and snow sports”

Ruth Creamer
(librarian)

I♥ GENEVA

“Geneva is so international, it is practically the whole world in one city. In short: lake, mountain, wine, fountain!

Robert MacDonald
(UN interpreter)

At the heart of Europe, Geneva sits snugly at the top of Lac Léman, flanked by the impressive mountain ranges of the Jura and Alps. Not only a hop, skip and jump from the ski slopes, it’s also a vibrant city with a multicutural diversity that gives it a real global village feel. Throw in the high-end shopping, eclectic gastronomic eating and booming nightlife and Geneva is more than cold, clean efficiency. It’s a chic, sleek, up-and-coming hotspot!

RIVE DROITE

Geneva’s Right Bank incorporates the rather mild red light district of the Paquis and stretches along to the international area around the Place Des Nations.

Running from the main train station, Cornavin, down towards the lake Paquis’s streets are made for walking because here is where you’ll find endless quirky, trendy cafés and some of the best ethnic cuisine. For simple but full Mediterranean flavour, try Olé Olé (11 Rue de Fribourg, tel. ) which boasts a choice of two plats du jour (meal of the day), one of which

is always vegetarian. For more spice in your life, Café Bollywood (6 Place de la Navigation, ) is a highly fashionable venue for tasty Indian food in a colourful, glam kitsch setting. If you prefer Lebanese, one of the best is La Caravane Passe (11 Rue Alfred-Vincent, tel. ). Ask for a mezze, the ideal way to sample a little of everything. A few doors down is the newest hip bar in town, Le Paki (5-7 Alfred Vincent), which is already attracting a dedicated crowd. Minimalist décor with cool orange and blue tones encourages you to dive into the leather armchairs and squashy sofas and sip one of the wonderful cocktails. If you’re peckish, there are tasty tapas or more substantial French gastronomic main courses in the back restaurant. For gift hunters, avoid expensive souvenir shops and stock up on cheap Swiss chocolates, cheese and wines at supermarket chain Migros (chocs and cheese) and sister shop Denner (bargain booze and cigarettes). Both stores appear on most street corners but the Les Cygnes shopping centre by the station, is one of the most convenient (16-20 Rue de Lausanne ).

Definitely one for sightseers, Place des Nations is the heart of many humanitarian organisations and museums. Start with the Palais des Nations, (Avenue de la Paix) home to the United Nations, and take a tour of the horseshoe complex before signing the Golden Book of Peace. Then walk around the square taking in the ballet of fountains and infamous sculpture of the giant chair minus a leg, symbolising the devastation caused by landmines. The Red Cross was founded in Geneva by Henri Dunant, so pop up the road to the International Red Cross Museum (17 Avenue de la Paix) and view the history and progress. Finish up with some art just down the road at the Ariana musuem (10 Avenue de la Paix), which exhibits prestigious collections of ceramics and glass from the City of Geneva. With over 20,000 objects on display, the collection illustrates seven centuries of ceramics, right up to the modern day. Keep up your strength with great Italian food and friendly service at nearby La Romana (37 Rue de Vermont), a popular haunt with the UN diplomats and workers so check the tables, you might just spot a famous face.

RIVE GAUCHE

Stroll over the lake and onto Geneva’s Left Bank, where a short hike uphill takes you up to the Old Town. Head back down again and grab a tram across the River Arve into the Carouge quartier.

The pedestrianised Vieille Ville or Old Town is a meandering sprawl of cobbled backstreets bringing together art and antique shops, fine dining and late and lively nightclubs. Pure and Simple (1 Carrefour de Rive, tel. ) is at the foot of the Old Town and although not cheap is one of an increasingly large number of Geneva resto-clubs combining the elegance and vibe of a nightclub with high-quality food. On that note foodies are really spoilt for choice in the Old Town. For traditional French cuisine and strong aromatic coffees try Le Mortimer (2 Place du Bourg-de-Four, tel. ). The building dates from 1580 and has a vaulted cellar. The baked lamb with potatoes is a house speciality.

Another top-class bistro is Le Pied de Cochon (4 Place du Bourg-de-Four,tel:
) which features a menu of meaty Genevois and Lyonnais dishes served by bow-tie clad waiters. Not for the faint hearted, the restaurant’s speciality, as the name suggests, is pigs’ trotters. Finish the night off at Le Petit Palace (6 Rue de la Tour de Boël) Geneva’s oldest disco, a large and often crowded club playing a wide mix of music. Still not tired? Duck under the eaves and continue partying at XS (21 Grand Rue) a small, popular club carved into the stone walls of the Old Town itself.

For a bit of Mediterranean warmth among the glacial cool of Geneva, Carouge is the place to be. The architecture, atmosphere and feel of this district reflects its past as part of the Kingdom of Sardinia. The wide avenues are filled with designer boutiques, wine bars and classy restaurants. For classy Italian shoewear try La Strada (43 Rue Ancienne). Women are spoilt for choice at On Stage (11 Rue St Victor) an unusual fashion house set up by 25 young designers keen to showcase their own designs; beautiful fabrics and easy-to-wear clothes for all ages. For the fuller-figured woman, Volupté (50 Rue Ancienne) offers designer label, secondhand clothes from designers including Max Mara, Dior and Chanel. After all that shopping unwind with a cool glass of wine at Qu’importe (1 Rue Ancienne). For a bite to eat, La Bourse (Place du

Marché, tel. ) is a superb Parisian-style brasserie. Try local speciality pierrade, a hot-stone grill brought to the table for you to cook meats on, served with various sauces and frites. Another much-loved local favourite is L’Ange des Dix Vins (29 bis Rue Jacques-Dalphin, tel. ) where the gorgeous truffle menu is a popular choice. A welcome change from some of Geneva’s more snooty establishments, the atmosphere here is warm and welcoming. For late nights and live music head to the iconic Chat Noir (12 Rue Vautier) with its small drinking area on the top and a larger concert bar below dedicated to live performances and Europe’s best DJs.

■ Where to stay

Paquis

A staple favourite is the Hotel Kipling (27 Rue de la Navigation, tel. , manoltel.com, rooms from €200) which was originally named after the famous British poet and novelist. Accordingly, the hotel takes India as its theme and is decorated in the style of the British Raj, with exotic wood and spicy tones.

Old Town

Tucked away near the Place du Bourgde-Four the Bel’Espérance (1 Rue de la Vallée, tel. , hotel-belesperance.ch, rooms from €97) is exquisitely decorated with bright yellow and blue rooms and tiled baths. It also has a spectacular terrace and a graceful Louis-Philippe-style breakfast salon. Just a bit further down is the manor-style Hotel Longemalle (13 Place Longemalle, tel. , longemalle.ch, rooms from €140), beautifully designed with architecture dating back to 1905 and an ornate, lavish interior, complete with private lounges opening onto a large flower filled balcony.

Carouge

La Cour des Augustins (15 Rue Jean-Violette, tel. , lacourdesaugustins.com, rooms from €156) is a new and stylish boutique gallery hotel designed in collaboration with renowned Swiss designer Philippe Cramer that harmoniously blends a subtle mix of modernity and classicism. This four-star hotel promises personalised attention and even boasts its own boutique and art gallery.

FR Gros plan sur Genève

Au coeur de l’Europe, Genève surplombe la partie étroite du Lac Léman, flanquée de l’impressionnante chaîne de montagnes du Jura et des Alpes. À un pas, à un bond et à un saut des pistes de ski, Genève est également une ville vivante, et sa diversité multiculturelle lui donne une vraie dimension de village global.

Sur la Rive Droite, se trouve le quartier chaud de Genève, le quartier ‘qui bouge’ des Paquis et qui se prolonge jusqu’au quartier international, dans les environs de la Place Des Nations. Pour une cuisine méditerranéenne, essayez Olé Olé (11 Rue de Fribourg, tél. ) ou La Caravane Passe (11 Rue Alfred-Vincent, tél. ) pour des plats libanais. C’est non loin de là que se concentrent aussi les bars branchés de la ville, dont le dernier en date, Le Paki (5-7 Alfred Vincent).

La Place des Nations, le centre névralgique de nombreuses organisations humanitaires et de musées, est un lieu idéal pour les promeneurs. Mais on peut aussi s’arrêter pour manger un bout, notamment à La Romana (37 Rue de Vermont), où la cuisine italienne est un délice.

Sur la Rive Gauche, le soir venu, apprêtezvous à côtoyer du beau monde dans Le Baroque (12 Place de la Fusterie, tél. ) avant de descendre dans l’ultra-chic B’Club pour une réunion très jet-set. Le Mortimer (2 Place du Bourg-de-Four, tél. ), sert une cuisine française traditionnelle et des cafés aromatisés, tandis que Le Pied de Cochon (4 Place du Bourg-de-Four, tél. ) est un autre bistrot de grande classe proposant en primauté des plats genevois et lyonnais. Terminez la soirée à l’XS (21 Grand Rue) un nightclub exigu, en pierres taillées dans les murailles de la Vieille Ville.

Les larges avenues de Carouge regorgent de boutiques de stylistes, de bars à vins et de restaurants de première catégorie. La Strada

(43 Rue Ancienne) offre une gamme de chaussures italiennes et tous ceux qui cherchent les dernières tendances en matière de mode devraient faire un tour chez On Stage (11 Rue St Victor).

NL Insider Genève

In het kloppende hart van Europa ligt Genève knus en hoog aan het Lemanmeer, geflankeerd door het indrukwekkende Jura- en Alpengebergte. Niet alleen ligt het op een steenworp afstand van de skipistes – het is ook een bruisende stad met een multiculturele diversiteit, wat het tot een heus werelddorp maakt.

De rechteroever van Genève, met de ‘gematigde’ rosse buurt van Les Pâquis, strekt zich uit tot de internationale buurt rond de Place Des Nations. Voor heerlijke mediterrane gerechten kun je terecht bij Olé Olé (11, Rue de Fribourg, tel. ). Voor de Libanese keuken moet je dan weer in La Caravane Passe (11, Rue Alfred-Vincent, tel. ) zijn. Een paar deuren verder ligt trouwens de nieuwste hippe bar van de stad, Le Paki (5-7, Rue Alfred Vincent).

Place des Nations is de verzamelplaats van veel humanitaire organisaties en musea. Hier tref je dan ook veel toeristen aan. Maar je kunt je hier ook te goed doen aan heerlijke Italiaanse gerechten, en wel bij La Romana (37, Rue de Vermont).

Geef de aftrap voor een onvergetelijke avond op de linkeroever van de stad. Vertoef in Le Baroque (12, Place de la Fusterie, tel. ) in het gezelschap van de beau monde alvorens koers te zetten naar de über-trendy B’Club voor een elitaire party. Voor traditionele Franse gerechten en heerlijk geurende koffie ga je naar Le Mortimer (2, Place du Bourg-de-Four, tel. ). Le Pied de Cochon (4, Place du Bourg-de-Four, tel. ) is nog zo’n uitstekende bistro die streekgerechten uit Genève en Lyon serveert. Bekroon de avond met een bezoek aan XS (21, Grand Rue), een piepkleine nachtclub die uit de stenen muren van de Oude Stad werd gehouwen.

De brede lanen van Carouge zijn rijkelijk getooid met designerboetieks, wijnbars en stijlvolle restaurants. Voor Italiaanse schoenen ga je naar La Strada (43, Rue Ancienne), terwijl fashionista’s hun hart ophalen in On Stage (11, Rue St Victor).

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