Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Insider: Malaga

With year-round sun and new museums and restaurants opening, Malaga is the ideal destination for a mid-winter city break

Granada, Seville and Cordoba may be the most famous Andalusian cities, but Malaga has grown weary of waiting in the wings and is set to join them centre stage. The coastal city’s bid for the 2016 European Capital of Culture has resulted in an impressive line-up of new museums, cutting-edge entertainment, stylish nightlife and shopping. A winning double bill of sophisticated new restaurants and traditional tapas bars adds to the cosmopolitan appeal.

Despite this, most of the several million tourists who land at the airport each year turn right to the Costa del Sol beaches instead of left into the city. The positive upshot of this is that Malaga has retained its Andalusian integrity – you’ll be hard pushed to find a straw donkey for sale here.

CITY CENTRE

Malaga’s centre has benefited from a brush-up and welcomes visitors with elegance and charm. Handsome pastel-coloured buildings flank pedestrian streets decorated with flower baskets and contemporary sculptures.

Take a stroll along glossy Calle Marqués de Larios, past buskers, human statues and shops such as Massimo Dutti (7 Calle Marqués de Larios), where Malaga’s elegant gentlemen head for well-cut clothes, and Hakei (2 Calle Marqués de Larios) for fashionable Spanish footwear. Seek a little respite from retail overkill by grabbing a chair on the square at Café Central (11 Plaza de la Constitución, tel. ). Treat yourself to crispy sweet churros (spiral doughnuts) with hot chocolate for dunking.

Across the square, the evocative Casa del Consulado del Mar (7 Plaza de la Constitución) has galleries set around an historic columned courtyard and stages superb exhibitions of photography and art. Around the corner, the Madrid-based Museo Thyssen Bornemisza is scheduled to open a new branch this spring. The top tapas bar in these parts is Mesón Lo Gueno (9 Calle de Marín Garcia, tel. ), famed for its menu of more than 75 tapas dishes. Meanwhile, the charming Pasaje Chinitas (home of the tourist office) has a couple of atmospheric tapas bars and the unique Cerería Zalo (10 Calle Santa Maria), which has been making candles since 1724 and also sells religious items.

NORTH: PLAZA DE LA MERCED

Cupolas jostle with spires and minarets in a skyline that reflects the city’s richly layered history. Museums are thick on the ground as well. Picasso was born in Malaga and the Museo Picasso (8 Calle San Agustín, museopicassomalaga.org) does him justice, with most of the collection donated by his family. The modest exhibits at the newer Museo de Arte Flamenco (Calle Marqués de Guadiaro) may not set the pulses racing, but the foot-stomping flamenco show on Fridays will (starts at 10.30pm). Another newbie is the Museo del Vino (1 Plaza de los Viñeros, museovinomalaga.com), where you can learn about and taste local wines.

This area is also the epicentre of the city’s nightlife. Make your way to the quaintly lopsided cathedral – avoiding the overpriced bars at the plaza across the street – and kickstart your evening with a fino sherry at the cavernous Bodega El Pimpi (62 Calle Granada, tel. ), its barrel-flanked rooms decorated with faded feria posters. The late-night action centres around Plazas Uncibay and Merced. Sip a Mango Daiquiri at Trifasico (9 Calle de las Beatas), a moody cocktail bar that has live music on Thursdays.

Cool new restaurants are springing up around here like proverbial mushrooms. Vino Mio (11 Calle Alamos, tel. ) serves modern dishes like filo pastry baskets with three-cheese fondue and caramelised red onion; carpaccio of beef with homemade pesto, parmesan and pine nuts; or salad of gouda, camembert, pear and dates.

EAST: LA MALAGUETA

This area is best known for seasonal chiringuitos (informal seafood restaurants) and its wide swathe of sandy beach. If you walk here via the exotic gardens flanking the Paseo del Parque, you can enjoy the excellent view of the Alcazaba Moorish fortress, which is also worth a visit.

Classy, year-round restaurant Adolfo (12 Paseo Marítimo Pablo Ruiz Picasso, tel. ) offers bucket-andspade views and traditional meat and seafood dishes, plus more contemporary choices like ravioli stuffed with prawns in a creamy curry sauce. Stock up on goodies like jamon Serrano (dry cured Spanish ham) and crumbly Manchego cheese at traditional deli La Malagueta (10 Calle de Cervantes).

Shopping-wise, look out for the cavernous antiques shops along Avenida de Príes, just beyond the bullring. Take a peek, too, at the ornate Palacio Monte Miramar (38 Calle Monte Miramar, palaciomontemiramar.com), which is being transformed from the city’s law courts into a sumptuous five-star hotel. In the shadow of the Alcazaba, the tiered modern structure of the Museo del Patrimonio Municipal (1 Paseo de Reding, ayto-malaga.es) is often overlooked, so you may find yourself blissfully alone as you ponder its display of Spanish paintings and sculpture dating from the 15th to 20th centuries.

WEST: ALAMEDA & THE PORT

The Alameda is the main artery that runs through the centre – a wide avenue planted with lofty plane trees, colourfully decorated with flower stalls and lined with old-fashioned shops and bars. Hang a left at the dried river bed and check out the Centro de Arte Contemporáneo (Calle de Alamenía, cacmalaga.org), which has regular cutting-edge exhibitions. Grande dame of Brit art Tracey Emin will be exhibiting here until 22 February. To the left is one of Malaga´s best tapas streets, Pasaje de Valencia. Start with Eguzki (6 Pasaje de Valencia, tel. ), which does innovative Basque pintxos. Move on to La Ménsula (28 Calle Trinidad Grund, tel. ), which remains firmly in classical mode with dishes like oxtail, roast suckling pig and stone-cooked steak.

Just down the road from here, Malaga port is undergoing a transformation. Already a serious player on the cruise circuit, it currently looks like some impatient child has wreaked havoc with a Meccano set. But it will soon have plenty of dock-side entertainment, so it’s worth keeping an eye on for future visits.

Where to stay

The Molina Lario (22 Calle Molina Lario, tel. , hotelmolinalario.com, rooms from €123) is an exquisite boutique hotel handily located near the cathedral. As you’d expect, it has tastefully decorated rooms and a rooftop pool with heady views.

Hotel Don Curro (7 Calle Sancha de Lara, tel. , hoteldoncurro. com, rooms from €97) is just around the corner from Calle Marqués de Larios. Rooms at this family-run classic have parquet floors, spot lighting and classy cream and white fabrics.

Los Naranjos (35 Paseo de Sancha, tel. , hotel-losnaranjos.com, rooms from €95) is a solid, no-surprises hotel situated on an elegant stretch of road, just east of the city centre. Try to bag one of the upper-floor rooms for the best sea and coastline views.

Opened in May last year, the four-star Husa Guadalmedina (16 Pasillo de Matadero, tel. , husa.es, rooms from €80) is a smart little bolthole just off the Alameda with shiny marble décor, extremely comfortable rooms and superb facilities.

The Hostal Capri (8 Avenida de Pries, tel. , rooms from €45) is set in a delightful historic building in La Malagueta. It has a peaceful, plant-filled front terrace and simply furnished rooms with en-suite bathrooms and TVs.

FR Gros plan sur Malaga

Avec un soleil au zénith toute l’année et une éclosion de nouveaux musées et de restaurants, Malaga s’impose comme la destination idéale pour un city break de la mi-hiver.

Centre ville

Le centre de Malaga regorge d’élégance et de charme. Massimo Dutti (4 Marqués de Larios) propose des collections habillées pour hommes, et Hakei (Marqués de Larios s/n) commercialise de magnifiques chaussures. Choyez-vous avec une pâtisserie croustillante churros (des doughnuts en spirales) et un chocolat chaud au Café Central (11 Plaza de la Constitución). De l’autre côté de la Place, en diagonale, Casa del Consulado del Mar (7 Plaza de la Constitución) organise de superbes expositions de photographie et d’art. Mesón Lo Gueno (9 Marín Garcia, tél. ) est le meilleur bar à tapas du quartier.

Nord : autour de la Plaza de la Merced

Picasso est né à Malaga et le Musée Picasso (8 San Agustín, museopicassomalaga.org) lui rend justice. Si vous désirez tout savoir sur le vin local, passez au Musée del Vino (2 Fernando Camino). Démarrez la soirée avec panache à la Bodega El Pimpi (62 Granada, tél. ), ensuite dégustez un daiquiri à la mangue au Trifasico (9 Beatas). Vino Mio (11 Calle Alamos, tél. ) sert des plats de cuisine actuelle comme le carpaccio de bœuf au pesto maison.

Est : La Malagueta

Déambulez dans ce quartier en traversant les jardins exotiques qui bordent le Paseo del Parque. D’ici, la vue est magnifique sur la forteresse maure d’Alcazaba. Toute l’année, le restaurant classe Adolfo (12 Paseo Marítimo Picasso, tél. ), propose ses plats traditionnels de viande et de fruits de mer. Faites des réserves de jambon espagnol et de fromage Manchego à l’épicerie fine La Malagueta (10 Cervantes). Jetez un œil aux boutiques d’antiquités, antres obscurs, le long de l’Avenida de Príes.

Ouest : Alameda et le Port

Prenez à gauche du lit de la rivière et découvrez le Centro de Arte Contemporáneo (Alamenía, cacmalaga.org) où des expositions d’avant-garde sont régulièrement proposées. Tracy Emin y exposera jusqu’au 22 février. Egyzki (6 Pasaje de Valencia, tél. ) confectionne des pintxos (tapas) basques, dans un esprit très créatif. La Ménsula (28 Trinidad Grund , tél. 4) propose au menu des plats comme le steak cuit sur pierre.

NL Insider Malaga

Het hele jaar door volop zon en een heleboel nieuwe musea en restaurants die er als paddenstoelen uit de grond schieten: Malaga is de ideale bestemming om er even tussenuit te knijpen tijdens de winter.

Het stadscentrum

Het stadscentrum van Malaga ademt klassen en charme uit. Massimo Dutti (4 Marqués de Larios) verkoopt stijlvolle mannenkledij, terwijl je bij Hakei (Marqués de Larios s/n) moet zijn voor modieus schoeisel. Moe van al dat shoppen? Een hap van heerlijk knapperige zoete churros (spiraalvormige donuts) met een kop warme chocolademelk in het Café Central (11 Plaza de la Constitución) helpen je in geen tijd opnieuw op de been. Steek diagonaal het plein over tot aan Casa del Consulado del Mar (7 Plaza de la Constitución), de thuishaven van bijzondere tentoonstellingen van fotografie en kunst. De beste tapasbar van de streek is Mesón Lo Gueno (9 Marín Garcia, tel. ).

Het noorden: Om en rond Plaza de la Merced

Picasso is in Malaga geboren. Als eerbetoon aan de getalenteerde kunstenaar kan je er het Museo Picasso (8 San Agustín, museopicassomalaga. org) gaan bezoeken. Om bij te leren over en uiteraard te proeven van plaatselijke wijnen moet je in het Museo del Vino (2 Fernando Camino) zijn. ’s Avonds raden we je Bodega El Pimpi (62 Granada, tel. ) aan voor een eerste stapje in de wereld. Bestel vervolgens een mango daiquiri in Trifasico (9 Beatas). Bij Vino Mio (11 Calle Alamos, tel. ) worden moderne gerechten zoals rundercarpaccio met huisbereide pesto geserveerd.

Het oosten: La Malagueta

Ga wat gezellig kuieren in de exotische tuinen die de Paseo del Parque flankeren en geniet van het betoverende uitzicht op het monumentale Moorse Alcazaba Fort. Het stijlvolle restaurant Adolfo (12 Paseo Marítimo Picasso, tel. ) is het hele jaar open en bereidt traditionele vlees- en visgerechten. Ga langs in de delicatessenwinkel La Malagueta (10 Cervantes) om een stevige portie Spaanse ham en Manchego kaas in te slaan. Kijk ook uit voor de ondergrondse antiekwinkels aan weerszijden van de Avenida de Príes.

Het westen: Alameda en de Haven

Sla linksaf aan de rivierbedding en loop binnen in het Centro de Arte Contemporáneo (Alamenía, cacmalaga.org), waar regelmatig spraakmakende tentoonstellingen worden georganiseerd. Tracy Emin stelt er haar werken tentoon tot 22 februari. Voor de lekkerste innoverende Baskische pintxos moet je bij Egyzki (6 Pasaje de Valencia, tel. ) zijn. In La Ménsula (28 Trinidad Grund, ) kan je smullen van o.a. op steen gebakken steak.

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