Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

3 is the magic number

Capri, Procida and Ischia in the Bay of Naples have been bewitching visitors ever since they were discovered by the ancient Greeks. Matt Barker falls under their spell

Images photolibrary.com, allstarpl.com

Of the three islands in the Bay of Naples, Capri has exerted the most enduring pull over popular imagination. This is where Odysseus resisted the Sirens’ call and the Emperor Tiberius declared capital of the Roman Empire. It’s the place Frank Sinatra sang of and where Graham Greene retired to write.

But each island has its own individual characteristics, history and ambience. Procida is a sleepy, quiet getaway, while Ischia, with its pine woods, vineyards and Monte Epomeo volcano, is known as the ‘Green Island’.

Like most Italian tourist traps, a short detour from the main thoroughfares quickly pays dividends.

Capri

With its dazzling limestone cliffs, rocky coastline and verdant farmland, Capri is surprisingly wild and organic, where you’re just as likely to find yourself face to face with a bleating goat as with a braying minor royal.

It does, of course, attract crowds of day-trippers, most of whom come to visit the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), but the vast majority make their way back to the mainland come evening, leaving you to take a hassle-free passeggiata around Piazza Umberto I.

Spend the day exploring the nearby Giardini di Augusto, with terraces looking across the bay, or walk to the cliff-top Arco Naturale, where you can reward yourself with a glass of prosecco at Le Grottelle (13 Via Arco Naturale).

The beach at Bagni di Tiberio lies on the north side of the island and is best reached by boat (which shouldn’t cost more than €6 from Marina Grande), or there’s Marina Piccola, with its Pennaulo and Mulo beaches, on the southern coast.

And the Grotta Azzurra? Sorry, but you might just find it a crashing letdown. Far better to hire a boat to take you around the island’s coast instead, so you can take in the incredible sights of Faraglioni, Monte Solaro and an assortment of smaller (and just as impressive) grottos.

On a plate… Capri is famous for its seafood, especially scampi and stuffed calamari, served simply with lemon and enjoyed alfresco with a glass of wine. The king of puddings is sanguinaccio dolce, made with cocoa, vanilla, cinnamon and candied fruits.

Ischia

One hundred thermal springs and all that volcanic mud make Ischia a major draw for spa junkies, with the most popular spots being Giardini Poseidon and Casamicciola Terme.

Away from the mudpacks and fluffy bathrobes, there are more hedonistic pursuits to enjoy. Indulge in gooey cake at Bar Calise (69 Via Sogliuzzo Antonio) in Ischia Porto, or sip coffee at the nearby Da Ciccio (1 Via Porto), before hitting the bars and restaurants along Via Roma. Just down the road is Ischia Ponte, with its beach and the mean and moody Castello Aragonese, which has its own nightclub.

Lacco Ameno retains a whiff of 1950s glamour, echoing its heyday when Hollywood royalty would come to parade along the colonnade. Soak up la dolce vita over pizza at La Sirenella (41 Corso Angelo Rizzoli).

The best beach is in Sant’Angelo, a fishing village at the southern end of the island, with a long bay and hot springs bubbling away in the background. Forio is the romantic alternative, an arty outpost that hosts an annual film festival and has several small beachfront bars and fish restaurants along its dramatic coast.

On a plate… Rabbit is a favourite here, cooked in white wine with cherry tomatoes, garlic and pepper. Wines include forastera and biancolella (both white), piedirosso and guarnaccia (red). There’s plenty of fish too – sea bass, mackerel, squid, octopus and anchovies. And don’t leave without trying the honey, an island speciality.

Procida

The smallest of the three islands is often overlooked by non-Italian tourists, surprisingly so given its long beaches of volcanic sand, citrus groves and big-screen roles (in The Talented Mr Ripley and Il Postino, among others).

Lacking the coach-party hordes and Eurocrat posh of Capri, Procida is an altogether more relaxed proposition. You can stroll across the island in an hour and most of the action (or lack of it) centres around the port of Sancio Cattolico and Marina di Chiaiolella. From there you can walk up to the walled hilltop town of Terra Murata, with its dramatic views across the bay and marvellously gloomy disused prison.

On the west coast, Chiaiolella is a small harbour with narrow cobbled streets, a sandy beach, bobbing boats and chatty locals. Walk across a wooden footbridge to the islet of Vivara for a bit of shade in its wildlife sanctuary. For a real treat, hire a boat for a tour of the island, available from Sancio Cattolico and Chiaiolella, at €25 for two hours.

On a plate… No trip is complete without trying a dish of fresh fish with locally grown lemons, chased down with wine produced from Procida’s celebrated levante grape.

Lemons are so popular here they’re often eaten in slices like bread (and are even known as pane).

Who goes where

Each island attracts a different crowd. See where you’d fit in with our guide

Capri
By far the most popular of the three islands, Capri pulls in a mix of tour-party day-trippers and a more upmarket crowd. It has been a regular haunt for the jet set since its 1950s heyday, but has become increasingly accessible, even without a gold card.

Ischia
Once the sole preserve of Italians in the know and a smattering of German visitors, Ischia’s springs have become a magnet for spa tourists. A little more relaxed and less obsessed with shoes than Capri, it strikes a happy medium between its more famous neighbour’s high profile and Procida’s sleepy village ambience.

Procida
The smallest of the three islands, although the closest to the mainland, it’s still an overlooked tourist destination. That means it’s still pleasingly authentic, so head here for back-to-basics simplicity, and a bit of peace and quiet.

Island knowledge

Top tips for a stress-free holiday on Capri, Ischia or Procida

Summer here lasts from March to November, with spring and early autumn the best times to visit.

Ferries and hydrofoils to all three islands depart regularly from Molo Beverello and Mergellina harbours in Naples. The journey by ferry takes around two hours; halve that (and double the cost) for hydrofoils. For timetables and prices, visit caremar.it.

English and other European languages are more widely spoken on Capri than Procida and Ischia. Indeed, you may find Italian (or a local dialect) is the only language spoken in parts of the latter.

FR Trois, le chiffre magique

Capri, Procida et Ischia ont un effet envoûtant sur les visiteurs depuis leur découverte par les anciens Grecs. Matt Barker est tombé sous leur charme

Capri Avec ses falaises de calcaire, son littoral rocheux et ses étendues verdoyantes de champs, Capri est un endroit étonnamment sauvage, dominé par la végétation. Partez en randonnée sur le sommet de la falaise à la découverte de l’arc naturel, et ensuite dégustez un Prosecco au restaurant Le Grottelle (13 via Arco Naturale). La plage à Bagni di Tiberio est plus facilement accessible par bateau, mais en vous dirigeant plus au sud le long de la côte, vous trouverez la Marina Piccola. Passez outre la Grotte Bleue et louez plutôt un bateau qui vous emmènera faire un tour de l’île, d’où vous pourrez admirer à souhait un large assortiment de grottes, un peu plus petites mais tout aussi impressionnantes.

Dans votre assiette … Capri est réputée pour ses fruits de mer, et plus particulièrement ses scampi et les calamars farcis, servis avec un simple filet de citron.

Ischia Avec ses 100 sources thermales, Ischia a largement de quoi attirer les accros de spa ; les Jardins de Poséidon est l’endroit le plus réputé, à Casamicciola Terme. Au programme, vous pouvez aussi vous laisser tenter par un gâteau très sucré au Bar Calise (69 via Sogliuzzo Antonio) et un café chez Da Ciccio (1 via Porto). La petite municipalité de Lacco Ameno dégage toujours un parfum de glamour des années 50. Imprégnez-vous de la dolce vita autour d’une pizza à La Sirenella (41 Corso Angelo Rizzoli). La plus belle plage se trouve à Sant’Angelo. Forio est une alternative romantique.

Dans votre assiette … Le lapin mijoté dans du vin blanc avec des tomates cerises, de l’ail et du poivre. Et ne partez surtout pas avant d’avoir goûté le miel, une spécialité de l’île.

Procida Procida est souvent délaissée par les touristes non-Italiens, malgré ses plages de sable volcanique et ses bocages de citronniers. L’île est très calme, et vous pouvez en faire le tour en une heure. Grimpez jusqu’au sommet de la ville fortifiée de Terra Murata, ou visitez Chiaiolella, un charmant port de pêche sur la côte ouest. Faites-vous plaisir, louez un bateau (avec chauffeur) et faites le tour de l’île, depuis Sancio Cattolico ou Chiaiolella.

Dans votre assiette … Du poisson fraîchement pêché, servi avec de grosses tranches de citrons de culture locale, accompagné d’un vin blanc issu du célèbre cépage levante de Procida.

NL Drie als geluksgetal

Capri, Procida en Ischia betoveren toeristen al sinds ze ontdekt werden door de oude Grieken. Matt Barker gaat op zoek naar de magie achter de drie eilanden.

Capri Capri is een verrassend wilde en natuurlijke plek met kliffen in leisteen, een rotsachtige kustlijn en grasgroene landbouwgrond. Wandel naar het uiteinde van de klif Arco Naturale voor een glaasje Prosecco in Le Grottelle (13 via Arco Naturale). Het strand van Bagni di Tiberio is het makkelijkst bereikbaar met de boot. Aan de zuidelijke kust is er Marina Piccola. Laat de Blauwe Grot links liggen en huur een boot om langs de verschillende kuststroken van het eiland te varen waar je een reeks kleinere (maar even indrukwekkende) grotten kunt bewonderen.

Op je bord … Capri is gekend voor zijn visgerechten, in het bijzonder scampi en gevulde calamares met citroen.

Ischia 100 warmwaterbronnen maken Ischia erg aantrekkelijk bij wellnessliefhebbers. Het meest populaire kuuroord is Poseidon Gardens aan Casamicciola Terme. Of geniet van zoete cake in Bar Calise (69 via Sogliuzzo Antonio) en een tas koffie bij Da Ciccio (1 via Porto). Lacco Ameno heeft de glamour van de jaren ’50 weten te bewaren. Geniet volop van la dolce vita bij een pizza van La Sirenella (41 Corso Angelo Rizzoli). Het beste strand is dat van Sant’Angelo. Forio is een goed alternatief voor romantische zielen.

Op je bord … Konijn gekookt in witte wijn, kerstomaatjes, look en peper. En vertrek niet vooraleer je de honing hebt geproefd, een specialiteit van het eiland.

Procida Procida wordt vaak over het hoofd gezien door niet-Italiaanse toeristen, terwijl het kan uitpakken met prachtige stranden van fijn zwart vulkaanzand en citrusbomen. Het werkt heel ontspannend, je kunt op een uurtje het volledige eiland afwandelen. Doe een uitstapje naar het ommuurde dorp Terra Murata op een heuveltop of trek naar Chiaiolella, een charmante vissershaven aan de westkust. Wil je ten volle genieten? Huur dan een boot (en bestuurder) voor een tocht langs de eilanden van op zee. Er vertrekken bootjes van Sancio Cattolico en Chiaiolella.

Op je bord … Vers gevangen vis met ter plaatse gekweekte citroenen die je doorspoelt met een witte wijn van de geroemde druif uit de Levante in Procida.

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