Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Viva Tel Aviv

Cool Tel Aviv

From bars to beaches, this hedonistic Mediterranean playground is the hottest place to be this summer. Richard Bence dives in and raises a glass as the city celebrates its 100th birthday

Images Dorel Gillerman, Richard Bence

From the beginning of the Jewish immigration at the end of the 19th century, a bohemian culture has defined Tel Aviv, which this year celebrates its centenary.

The city has an easy-going vibe and all-night party scene that knocks socks of other supposed world-class holiday destinations, even though its population is only 400,000. Remember, this is the country that celebrated for days when bonkers transsexual Dana International won Eurovision for Israel in 1998. But it’s also a country where you see pretty young women in bikini tops sucking on popsicles… with Uzis strapped to their backs. There’s a crackling energy in the air that breeds a carpe diem attitude. You never know what’s going to happen tomorrow, so live for today.

Visitors should start off with a stroll around Jaffa, not least for a historical grounding. Tel Aviv was only established in 1909 as a suburb of this ancient port. These days, the younger, brasher sister may have stolen the limelight, but Jaffa still has a thriving artists’ quarter with galleries tucked away down quaint alleys. It’s also home to Abu Hassan (1 Dolphin Street), widely regarded as the best hummus joint in Israel.

The quickest way to immerse yourself in the local scene is to get down to the beach. You’ll soon see that Israelis, a melting pot of different nationalities, have completely lucked out in the looks lottery. Hilton Beach is gay central (should you wish to share towel space with a bevy of buff manliness), while the hot chicks hang out at Sheraton Beach. Nearby is the renovated port, where you can eat and party all night long.

If you can drag yourself away from the beach for an hour or two, make sure you stroll around the hip neighbourhoods of Neve Tzedek and Florentin. The former is the city’s oldest and most beautiful neighbourhood, with an artsy atmosphere. The main drag, Shabazi Street, is lined with boutiques, bars, restaurants and cafés. In fact, Tel Aviv is a better place for coffee than most European capitals. Make sure you pop into Nina Café (29 Shabazi Street), which is a homage to the old-fashioned French village café and brimming with a sophisticated set. Just across the road is Nina Café Suites Hotel (www.ninacafehotel.com), where each luxurious room is decorated with exquisite pieces from Neve Tzedek boutiques or markets abroad.

You’re spoilt for choice for eating options in Tel Aviv, but if you want to rub shoulders with local TV stars, Herbert Samuel (6 Kofman Street, Beit Gabor, ) is your best bet. It was named Best New Restaurant in 2007 by Time Out Tel Aviv and is still going strong. With a stunning interior designed by Baranowitz Kronenberg Architecture, take a pew at the wooden bar and enjoy the buzz as much as the Italian-influenced cuisine. Next door is the hottest bar in town, Sublet, which has a gorgeous rooftop terrace. Housed in a 1970s skyscraper, there’s no sign, but the queues of beautiful people waiting to get in give this glam joint away.

For a dynamite location on the beach, Manta Ray (Alma Beach, ) – one of the most popular restaurants in Tel Aviv – has a fabulous terrace serving fresh seafood and a wide variety of meze (appetisers). If it’s oodles of character and charm you want, make a beeline for Jos & Los (51 Yehuda Halevi Street, ), one of the coolest places in the city, with a leafy candlelit garden making this a special place to sup with an arty crowd. They don’t take reservations, but get there by 8.30pm and you’ll be OK.

From here, you’re ideally placed to hit Rothschild Boulevard, which is dotted with cool bars and clubs. Famous for its Bauhaus architecture, the road is a visual treat day or night and still feels like it belongs to the locals. The latest thing is to buy a bottle of cava and sit on the street. You’ll soon get under the skin of the city – something you won’t do if you stay with the herd and miss out on all the boho charm of this area.

Parallel to Rothschild is Lilienblum Street, packed with groovy bars including Shesek (17 Lilienblum Street), which has a top DJ line-up. Another great place is The Minzar (opposite the corner of Allenby and Sheinkin), a hip bar with an unpretentious crowd of artists, musicians, writers and lefty liberals who enjoy a late-night drink or two, often rocking on till dawn.

Eventually, though, you’ll have to get some sleep. The towering Dan Panorama (Charles Clore Park, , www.danhotels.com) scores points for location, being just across the road from the beach and close to Neve Tzedek. Cosy it isn’t, but you get a great view of the Med and there’s a big pool with a snack bar. Madonna stays next door at the David InterContinental (www.intercontinental.com) which is pure class. For a much cooler and more intimate option, head to boutique Hotel Montefiore (36 Montefiore Street, , www.hotelmontefiore.co.il). Housed in a 1920s heritage building it has just 12 rooms plus a hip restaurant and bar. It’s ideally suited for singles or couples, and has a young concierge who knows about the area’s cool galleries and off-the-beaten-track restaurants and parties.

Day trip

Jerusalem is a history buff ’s dream

As an antidote to all that hedonism, a visit to Jerusalem is a must. This small plot of land is holy to just about everyone. The Mount of Olives offers spectacular views of Al-Aqsa Mosque, the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. You should also pay your respects at the Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum.

Mamilla Hotel (11 King Solomon Street, , www.mamillahotel.com) is Jerusalem’s first designer hotel and makes a fine place to stay with a spa, even if the whole idea of pampering and luxury may seem a bit inappropriate surrounded by all this holiness.

FR Cool Tel Aviv

Avec ses bars et ses plages, cette métropole méditerranéenne est l’endroit le plus branché où débarquer cet été. Richard Bence y a fait un saut

Depuis les premières années de l’immigration juive à la fin du XIXème siècle, une certaine culture de la bohème s’est emparée de Tel Aviv, qui célèbre par ailleurs son centenaire cette année.

La cité a été fondée en 1909 comme faubourg de Jaffa, une ville qui remonte aux temps anciens. Aujourd’hui, Jaffa comprend un quartier artistique en pleine effervescence. Faites comme les locaux et allez chez Abu Hassan (Rue Dolphin), considéré comme le meilleur lieu de dégustation du houmous en Israël.

Se rendre à la plage est encore la meilleure façon de vous immerger dans la culture locale. La plage du Hilton attire une population gay, tandis que les ‘people’ déambulent sur la plage du Sheraton. Si vous parvenez à vous extraire de ces coins du littoral, allez faire un tour du côté des quartiers trendy de Neve Tzedek et de Florentin. Ce dernier est un des beaux plus quartiers de la cité. L’attraction principale, la rue Shabazi, est bordée de boutiques, de bars et de cafés, dont Nina Café (29 rue Shabazi).

Si vous voulez côtoyer quelques célébrités locales à l’heure du dîner, Herbert Samuel (6 rue Kofman) est une valeur sûre. Mais si vous penchez plutôt pour un endroit de caractère et charmant à la fois, faites la queue chez Jos & Los (51 rue Yehuda Halevi), qui comprend un agréable jardin touffu éclairé aux chandelles.

Des myriades de bars et de clubs s’alignent le long du boulevard Rothschild et de la rue Lilienblum. On notera le Shesek (17 rue Lilienblum), et son cortège de top DJ. Il se peut qu’après toutes ces festivités vous ayez besoin d’un peu de sommeil. Dan Panorama (Parc Charles Clore) offre une superbe vue de la Méditerranée, et l’Hôtel Montefiore (36 rue Montefiore) est situé dans un bâtiment historique, héritage des années 1920.

NL Cool Tel Aviv

Zowel de stranden als de sfeer in de bars van deze mediterraanse metropool zijn bloedheet deze zomer. Richard Bence gaat op verkenning

Al van het begin van de Joodse immigratiestroom aan het einde van de 19e eeuw beheerst een onconventionele cultuur Tel Aviv, dat dit jaar zijn honderdste verjaardag viert.

De stad werd gesticht in 1909 als een voorstad van Jaffa, dat uit de oudheid stamt. Tegenwoordig heeft Jaffa een bruisend kunstenaarskwartier. Volg het voorbeeld van de lokale bevolking en trek naar Abu Hassan (Dolphin Street) voor de beste hummus van Israel. Het strand is de beste plek om je onder te dompelen in de couleur locale. Hilton beach is dé ontmoetingsplek voor homo’s, terwijl knappe meiden samentroepen op Sheraton beach. Als je eindelijk je ogen voldoende de kost hebt gegeven, kan je wat kuieren in de trendy omgeving van Florentin en Nava Tzedek. Die laatste is de mooiste buurt van de stad. De hoofdstraat, Shabazi Street, staat vol winkels, bars en cafés, waaronder Nina Café (Shabazi Street 29).

Wil je plaatselijke beroemdheden spotten tijdens het eten, dan trek je best naar Herbert Samuel (Kofman Street 16). Ben je op zoek naar een karaktervol en charmant decor, dan kan je aanschuiven bij Jos & Los (Yehuda Halevi Street 51), dat overigens kan bogen op een weelderige, met kaarsen verlichte tuin.

Rothschild Boulevard en Lilienblum Street zijn bezaaid met bars en clubs, waaronder Shesek (Lilienblum Street 17), waar exclusieve dj’s plaatjes komen draaien. Wanneer Klaas Vaak genadeloos toeslaat, is Dan Panorama (Charles Clore Park) een prima keuze. Je hebt er een prachtig vergezicht over de Med. Of kies voor Hotel Montefiore (Montefiore Street 36), een hotel in een betoverend erfgoed uit de jaren ’20.

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