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Chic Nice

Nice’s best-kept secret is its shopping – you just need to know where to look. Rowena Carr-Allinson opens her little black book

With its ritzy hotels giving the sparkling seafront an old-school Côte d’Azur glamour, Nice has always attracted those in search of sea, sun and chic. Niçois style is two parts Mediterranean ebullience to one part classic French elegance.

“It’s important for the Niçois to look good,” says personal shopper and Nice local Anne Davené-Vantalon. “Being so close to Italy, we’re influenced by Italian fashion: light, colourful and sexy. Here we dare to mix and match; the rules aren’t as strict as in Paris where you can get away with a lot less.”

Small wonder then that Nice is a shopper’s dream. Stores here range from big-name brands along Avenue de Verdun to one-off boutiques selling nothing but black diamond jewellery. The main shopping drag, Avenue Jean Medécin, is where you’ll find the usual suspects such as Zara, H&M, Sephora and Galeries Lafayette, while Rue Massena is good for high-street staples such as Petit Bateau and Kookaï.

The majority of visitors converge here, but if following the crowd isn’t your thing look beyond the main thoroughfares. This where you’ll find the secret stores in every chic local’s address book.

Chic and unique

Rue Alphonse Karr

“Nice is packed with brilliant one-off boutiques, showcasing French designers and unique lines,” says Anne. “Rue Karr has some of the best.”

Juliette Swildens, scion of the Bonpoint children’s clothing empire, stocks a limited-edition collection of sweet silk dresses, soft leather jackets and suede accessories at Swildens (12 Rue Alphonse Karr). Around the corner, Les Fées de la Création (16 Rue de la Liberté) sells one-off pieces from a handful of French designers. Owner Charlotte Gilbert Van Voorst gets many of the pieces direct from up-and-coming talents. “Some designers only send me one of each item, so you’re guaranteed to find pieces only you will be wearing,” she says.

“The beauty of this place is that you can get a unique dress for €200, but if your budget is smaller you can pick up a funky recycled brooch for €2 or an original bracelet from €11,” says Anne.

Eclectic and edgy
Vieux Nice

This maze of narrow streets is the city’s heart and soul, and the place to pick up original gifts – Provençal linens with the ubiquitous olive design, boutis quilts, fragrant soaps and that Niçois essential, a string bracelet with a simple charm.

The legendary Cours Saleya market is a must-see. In the mornings it sells flowers and food, but by night it is an ocean of souvenir stalls.

On Rue Droite you’ll find Une Cabane sur la Plage (37 Rue Droite), with its soothing beach-inspired décor. Stylish and affordable, it stocks lace dresses, cotton voile and embroidered detailing from romantic Danish brand Noa Noa.

On Rue de la Préfecture, it’s all about edgy boutiques such as Cop.Copine and RDV (both 17 Rue de la Préfecture). Come to the latter for rack upon rack of gorgeous dresses hanging in a dramatic, chandelier-lit setting. Sales assistant Elodie name-checks recent clients such as Donatella Versace and Demi Moore, whose husband Ashton Kutcher even filmed a scene of his latest

movie in the store. “Every two weeks it’s like Christmas here because we don’t keep stock,” she says. “So there’s always something new – from loud prints to subdued silks, and dresses for daytime, evening or going to the beach – in a real range of prices.”

Another must in the old town is Antic Boutik (19 Rue de la Préfecture). “For menswear, this is the place to go,” says Anne. “All the Niçois guys know it. For years it sold streetwear such as limited-edition Nike trainers, but now it’s Veja shoes for men and romantic floaty pieces for girls.”

The real tip is to come for the sales. Antic Boutik keeps things simple by just taking 50% off everything. The summer sales last for five weeks, but for soldes privées (private sales) for regular customers, ask in the stores two or three weeks before. It’s unlikely they’ll ask for an invitation – if you know about them, that’s usually enough.

Antique and flea markets
Harbourside

From Cours Saleya it’s a few yards to the sparkling Mediterranean. Here, the colourful houses keep their shutters drawn during the day to fend off the heat, and it feels as if you’re a million miles away from the designer boutiques and even Vieux Nice. These streets are lazily quiet, despite the distant hum of the sea.

Take a walk along the legendary Promenade des Anglais, following the corniche to the old harbour, marina and Quai de Lunel, home to the city’s permanent flea market, Les Puces. Here, dealers sit in the shade of their awnings, smoking and chatting over coffee.

Stalls such as Lou Paioun and Broc’17 sell a jumble of secondhand furniture, books, art deco lights, mirrors and smaller items, such as vintage jewellery and Murano glass.

To the left, follow Rue Ségurane through the antiques quarter to Rue Emmanuel-Philibert. Here, leather lovers should visit Vignes (16 Rue Emmanuel-Philibert), where you can find everything from frames and furniture to belts and bracelets. The owners,

Anne and Bertrand, work their magic with iguana, ostrich, and crocodile in many colours.

Top of the shops

Personal shopper Anne gives her pick of shops you’d be daft to miss

■ Best swimwear Galeries Lafayette (6 Avenue Jean Medécin) has a great swimwear range – in Nice the sea is warm from April to October, so it’s essential.

■ Best souvenirs Handmade Living Stone – a cushion inspired by the beach’s famous pebbles designed by Stéphanie Marin – is available at Loft (22/27 Rue de la Buffa).

■ Best Niçois classics Desert (9 Rue Alphonse Karr) is a Nice favourite and has been going for 20 years. Another must-see is Bensimon Autour du Monde (5 Rue de Longchamp) – its famous shoes are back in for this season.

Where to stay

■ Check into the Radisson Blu (223 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 97 , radissonblu. com ) for sea views, a rooftop swimming pool and a free shuttle service into the city centre.

Éclectique & à la pointe : le Vieux Nice

C’est l’endroit où se procurer des cadeaux originaux ; de la toile de lin provençale avec des motifs incontournables d’olive, des plaids boutis, des savons parfumés et cet accessoire prédominant à Nice, un bracelet-chaîne avec un charme simple. Dénichez des robes à lacets, des voiles de coton et des pièces avec broderies dans le magasin Une Cabane sur la Plage (37 Rue Droite) et essayez Cop.Copine (17 Rue de la Préfecture) ainsi que RDV (17 Rue de la Préfecture) pour des robes colorées. Un bon conseil : venez durant les soldes. Antic Boutik (19 Rue de la Préfecture) rend les choses plus simples en appliquant d’emblée 50% de réduction sur tous les articles. Les soldes d’été démarrent le 8 juillet et durent cinq semaines.

Antiquités & Marché aux Puces : le quartier du Port Le Quai de Lunel abrite le marché aux puces permanent de la ville, Les Puces. Des échoppes comme Lou Paioun et Broc’17 vendent une panoplie de mobilier de seconde main, de livres, de luminaires art déco, de miroirs, de bijoux vintage et d’objets en verre de Murano. Les amoureux du cuir devraient faire un saut chez Vignes (16 Rue Emmanuel-Philibert) pour des articles allant des cadres aux meubles et des ceintures aux bracelets en iguane, autruche, crocodile et lézard, dans un assortiment hyper varié de coloris.

NL Geheime winkeladresjes

Vraag: wat is best bewaarde geheim van Nice? Antwoord: winkelen! Je moet alleen weten waar je moet zijn. Rowena Carr-Allinson doet haar geheime boekje voor ons open.

Stijl Niçoise, dat is twee porties mediterraanse uitbundigheid per portie klassieke Franse elegantie. Het is de droom van elke fervente shopper; je vindt er zowel grote designers als exclusieve boetieks. Laat de hoofdstraat achter je en ga op zoek naar de geheime winkels die elke chique Niçois in zijn adresboekje heeft staan.

Chique & Unieke Boetieks: Alphonse Karr

Trek naar Swildens (Rue Alphonse Karr 12) voor prachtige zijden jurken, zachtlederen jekkers en suède accessoires. Les Fées de la Création (Rue de la Liberté 16) verkoopt exclusieve creaties van een handvol Franse designers.

Eclectisch & Eigenzinnig: Vieux Nice

Dit is de uitgelezen plek voor originele geschenken; Provençaals linnen met alomtegenwoordig olijfdesign, boutis spreien, geurige zeep en die ene Niçois essential: een fijne lintarmband met eenvoudige charme. Voor jurken met kant, katoenen voile en geborduurde afwerking moet je Une Cabane sur la Plage zijn (Rue Droite 37), terwijl Cop.Copine (Rue de la Préfecture 17) en RDV (Rue de la Préfecture 17) perfect zijn voor kleurrijke kleedjes. De koopjes zijn uiteraard de echte aanraders: Antic Boutik (Rue de la Préfecture
19) houdt het lekker eenvoudig door op alle artikelen 50% korting te geven. De zomerkoopjes gaan op 8 juli van start en duren vijf weken.

Antiek- en vlooienmarkten: Aan de haven Op Quai de Lunel staat de grootste permanente vlooienmarkt van de stad, nl. Les Puces. Kraampjes als Lou Paioun en Broc’17 verkopen een allegaartje van tweedehandse meubels, boeken, art-decoverlichting, spiegels, antieke juwelen en Murano glas. Voor lederliefhebbers is Vignes (Rue Emmanuel-Philibert 16) een verplichte tussenstop. Je vindt er zowat alles, van kaders en meubels tot broeksriemen en armbanden in leguanen-, struisvogel-, krokodillen- en hagedissenleer, in een regenboog van verschillende kleuren.