Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

In person

Dirk Bikkembergs

Belgian designer Dirk Bikkembergs burst on to the fashion scene in the middle of the 1980s as part of the Antwerp Six. He talks to b.there! about his latest collection of sportswear, why he invited an athlete to live in his flagship store and what it’s like to be the proud owner of an Italian football team

Text Tabitha Lasley

In 1986 I showed at London Fashion Week with five colleagues from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts [Dirk van Saene, Walter van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee and Dries van Noten, otherwise known as the Antwerp Six]. The British press appreciated our collections. I don’t know if and how influential we have been, but one thing is for sure – we put Antwerp on the map.

There’s a lot of respect between us, but I don’t see them regularly because I live in London. The six of us have completely different styles and after the fashion week in London, we continued on our own ways.

About 10 years ago, I noticed the world around me had changed.

In the 1980s we had pop stars, but the new heroes are footballers. Young people know smoking is bad, that you need to exercise to feel good.

Football is a global language.

I’ve always been inspired by sport. Men like to dress in a sporty way, but they also like to be elegant. That’s why I changed the name of my first line to Dirk Bikkembergs Sport Couture. I combine sporty elements with a couture way of cutting and finishing the garments, such as my cashmere tracksuit.

In 2005, I bought FC Bikkembergs Fossombrone.

They were the football team of the village where my production is based [in Marche, Italy].

I created new jerseys, did some improvements on the football field and built a new clubhouse for my team. At the time, they were in the Ecellenza division [the highest amateur level in Italy], but this year they won the championship and were promoted to Serie D.

The team are like a lab for me.

They helped me with the development of the Bix and Tirosegno football boots, they do fittings and some of the players participate in my fashion shows and ad campaigns.

I haven’t worked with professional models in 10 years.

The athletes on my catwalk are mainly footballers, but also basketball players, skiers and water polo players. These are the men I create for and they, more than anyone else, can transmit my message.

I wanted to integrate a sportsman’s apartment into my store.

I’d had the idea for ages. It means the customer can get immersed in the everyday life of a sportsman. In this case, it’s football player Andrea Vasa, defender for Brera club in Milan. He lives in the flagship store there and can stay as long as he feels comfortable with it.

I live in London and really like it because of its diversity.

It’s easy to reach the other parts of the world from here. I love Barcelona, too – and Madrid, Seville and Valencia.

My spring/summer 2010 collection was inspired by the artist Scott Elk.

Last October when I was in Sydney, I was struck by a fiery red painting on display in the window of an art gallery. It was of an athletic body in motion and graphic numbers. I met Scott and ordered several paintings. In my collection, the graphic numbers are replaced by handwritten ones. They add an artistic touch to the jogging suits, leather jackets and tuxedos, where they’re woven into the silk fabric.

My customer is a sporty guy.

He’d feel uncomfortable in a traditional tuxedo, which is why I make tuxedos and suits in a fine-knit jersey. Wearing these feels like wearing a tracksuit.

Dirk’s Antwerp

Best restaurant

Bitterpeeën (26 Ijzerlaan, tel. ) for Belgian cuisine, a nice atmosphere and good service.

Best shopping

Kloosterstraat for antique shops and thrift stores, and Verso (11 Lange Gasthuisstraat) for good clothes, accessories and cosmetics.

Best bar

Head to the terrace at Café Hopper (2 Leopold de Waelstraat) on a sunny afternoon.

Best bolthole

Hotel Julien (24 Korte Nieuwstraat, tel. , www.hotel-julien.com) is a charming hotel with beautiful interiors, housed in a 16th-century building in the centre of Antwerp.

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