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36 hours in Strasbourg

Don’t be fooled by Strasbourg’s Teutonic looks; they conceal a fiercely French heart. Anthea Gerrie spends a whistle-stop weekend in the heart of Alsace

Image OT Strasbourg
Illustration Jason Pickersgill / Acute Graphics

Strasbourg may be small, but it’s perfectly formed. The city’s architecture and culture reflect its highly decorative past as much as its streamlined, modern present, but everything has its place – rarely do old and new collide.

Grande Île in the centre is studded with medieval and 18th-century splendours, and more exquisite buildings line the right bank of the River Ill. Wallow in the city’s carved and painted excesses, then go back to the future by exploring the glass buildings of Quartier Européen and the student quarter. Save the best for last – the picturesque Petite France, with its canals and covered bridges.

Day one

11:00 Start your visit in Strasbourg’s most extraordinary building, Maison Kammerzell (16 Place de la Cathédrale). This historic monument dates back to 1427 and is carved outside and painted inside to within an inch of its life – like much of the city.

12:00 Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg (Place de la Cathédrale) is one of Europe’s finest gothic churches. The carved sandstone edifice took 400 years to erect, and at 142m was the tallest building in the world for much of the Middle Ages. Its great treasure is the astronomical clock from which an incredible mechanical show emerges at 12.30pm. All the stages of man parade before Death, while above them the Apostles walk around Christ. The cries of a rooster and the beating of wings provide the sound effects.

13:00 Le Clou (3 Rue du Chaudron, tel. ) is the cosiest place to enjoy traditional specialities such as choucroute garnie (smoked pork and top sausages with pickled white cabbage), washed down with local riesling in the typical little green-stemmed glasses. Book ahead and expect to sit elbow to elbow with strangers – it’s all part of the fun.

14:30 Linger in the charming Place du Marché aux Poissons on your way to take a tourist boat from the nearby quay. Even when the little square isn’t filled with stalls selling food and flowers, the regional emporium Arts et Collections d’Alsace (18 Quai des Bateliers), which showcases printed linen, painted pottery, elaborate metalwork and other local products, is always worth a browse.

15:00 The guided 70-minute tourist boat around the city is a relaxing way to see the architectural highlights. It leaves from in front of Palais Rohan, an outrageously decorated bishops’ residence whose museums are worth returning to explore, and then makes its way round the city. You’ll pass beneath the covered walkway of the medieval Barrage Vauban and whet your appetite for the new Strasbourg with a view of the futuristic EC buildings, before coming home to the time-warped old city centre.

16:30 After disembarking, cross the bridge and take a stroll down the right bank of the River Ill to Musée Alsacien (23-25 Quai Saint-Nicolas). With a riot of folk arts and crafts that won’t disappoint, this is a great place to check out the history of all the carving, painting and welding you’ve been gazing at on your travels today.

18:00 Take a leap back into the 21st century with a drink at Illvino (Quai des Pêcheurs), a very cool, modern wine bar on a moored riverboat. Try a glass of fragrant local gewürtztraminer with a little plate of cheese or charcuterie to bridge the gap until dinner.

20:00 It may look like your typical winstub (the hand-painted, pubby restaurants for which Strasbourg is famous) but Fink’stuebel (26 Rue Finkwiller, tel. ) is actually a hive of gastronomy. Sophie and Thierry make their own foie gras and serve delicious rich dishes with unusual twists, such as duck leg braised with dried fruit. It beats the stuffy Michelin-starred establishments frequented by the politicos hands-down for food as well as atmosphere.

23:00 Living Room (11 Rue des Balayeurs) is as close as you’ll get to nightlife in a city not famous for carousing. It’s a pleasant, beautifully decorated club in the hip Krutenau area, where you can have a bit of a dance with your after-dinner drinks.

Day two

10:00 Explore the new face of Strasbourg – the glossy, futuristic buildings that sprung up with the city’s status as an official hub of the EC. You may need to book ahead to get an inside look at the buildings of the European Parliament, Council of Europe and the European Court of Human Rights, but the gleaming glass and steel exteriors are worth the trip in themselves. If you think the parliament looks only half-finished, the architect has done his job well – it was designed to look that way.

13:00 Set in the beautiful Parc de l’Orangerie, Buerehiesel (4 Parc de l’Orangerie, tel. ) is considered Strasbourg’s swishest restaurant, despite its rustic farmhouse exterior. It’s a good place to get relief from heavy Alsatian dishes. The speciality here is gourmet treatments of fish flown in from Brittany.

15:30 Stroll down Allé de la Robertsau towards the university and stop at Café Brant (11 Place de l’Université) for a post-prandial drink, or add a sandwich for an inexpensive lunch. Visitors are seduced by the 1930s décor; students by the Wi-Fi laid on in a congenial setting close to the campus.

16:30 Hop on a C-line tram and take a ride through the commercial heart of Strasbourg to Rue du 22 Novembre, the closest stop to Petite France. Stroll around this little island within an island, admiring the canals, covered bridges and medieval buildings, many of which were homes for the workers in the town’s tanneries. In a city where virtually every local artefact looks suitable for the Christmas tree or festive table, a visit to Un Noël en Alsace (10 Rue des Dentelles) is essential.

19:30 L’Ami Schutz (1 Ponts Couverts, tel. ) is a winstub as picturesque as the surrounding neighbourhood. Sit outside on a nice day or cosy up inside the beamed interior. The menu has a number of reasonably priced dishes with a twist, such as cod with chorizo crumble.

22:00 If you feel like carrying on into the night, Jeannette et les Cycleux (30 Rue des Tonneliers) on the edge of the old town is fun – although more retro than romantic. The Irish coffee and grog with honey strike a warming note on a chilly night.

Where to stay

» Grande Île
Hotel Hannong
(15 Rue du 22 Novembre, tel. , www.hotel-hannong.com, rooms from €145) ticks all the right boxes: attractive, atmospheric and well-located – the cathedral and Petite France are an eight-minute stroll away.

» Quartier Européen
Villa Novarina
(11 Rue Westercamp, tel. , www.villanovarina.com, rooms from €105) is an elegant choice with a pool and serene garden. Situated in the embassy quarter, it’s close to l’Orangerie and the EC buildings.

» Petite France
Hôtel Regent Petite France
(5 Rue des Moulins, tel. , www.regent-petite-france.com, rooms from €169) offers contemporary chic, an antidote to its chocolate-box setting. A luxurious choice for a special occasion, especially if you can get a river view.

FR 36 heures à Strasbourg

Ne vous y trompez pas : sous des allures teutonnes Strasbourg cache un cœur profondément français. Un parcours d’Anthea Gerrie

Jour 1

11:00 Démarrez dans le bâtiment le plus extraordinaire de Strasbourg, la Maison Kammerzell (Place de la Cathédrale), dont l’origine remonte à 1427.

12:00 La Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Place de la Cathédrale) est l’une des plus fabuleuses églises gothiques d’Europe.

13:00 Le Clou (3 Rue du Chaudron) est recommandé comme l’endroit le plus confortable pour savourer des spécialités traditionnelles avec un bon riesling.

14:30 Flânez sur la charmante Place du Marché aux Poissons en chemin vers l’embarcadère du bateau touristique, en face du Palais Rohan.

16:30 Après avoir débarqué, traversez le pont et longez le fleuve jusqu’au Musée Alsacien (Quai Saint-Nicolas).

18:00 Revenez dans le 21ème siècle, prenez un verre à l’Illvino (Quai des Pêcheurs).

20:00 Cela ressemble peut-être à votre winstub typique (bar à vins alsacien), mais Fink’stuebel (26 Rue Finkwiller) est un temple de la gastronomie.

23:00 Living Room (11 Rue des Balayeurs) est ce qui s’approche au plus près de la vie nocturne dans une ville qui n’est pas réputée pour son exubérance festive.

Jour 2

10:00 Partez à l’exploration des bâtiments futuristes qui fleurissent dans la cité, Strasbourg ayant le statut de plateforme officielle institutionnelle de la CE.

13:00 Le Buerehiesel (4 Parc de l’Orangerie) est considéré comme le restaurant le plus en vogue de la ville.

15:30 Descendez la Alle de la Robertsau en direction de l’université et arrêtez-vous au Café Brant (Place de l’Université) pour prendre un verre.

16:30 Sautez dans le tram C-line vers la Rue du 22 Novembre, l’arrêt le plus proche du quartier de la Petite France, ensuite promenezvous autour de la Grande île.

19:30 L’Ami Schutz (1 Ponts Couverts) est un winstub pittoresque.

22:00 Si vous vous sentez prêt à continuer la soirée, Jeannette et les Cycleux (30 Rue Tonneliers) est un endroit où l’on s’amuse.

NL 36 uur in Straatsburg

Laat je niet misleiden door het Teutoonse uiterlijk van Straatsburg – erachter schuilt een trots Frans hart, zo ontdekte Anthea Gerrie

Dag 1

11:00 Start in het opmerkelijkste gebouw van Straatsburg, Maison Kammerzell (Place de la Cathédrale), dat dateert uit 1427.

12:00 Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Place de la Cathédrale) is een van de mooiste Gotische kerken van Europa.

13:00 Le Clou (3 Rue du Chaudron) is de gezelligste plek om traditionele specialiteiten te proeven en door te spoelen met riesling.

14:30 Kuier wat rond op de charmante Place du Marché aux Poissons op weg naar de toeristische boot vlak voor Palais Rohan.

16:30 Steek na de rondvaart de brug over en wandel langs de rivier naar het Musée Alsacien (Quai Saint-Nicolas).

18:00 Spring opnieuw de 21e eeuw binnen met een drankje bij Illvino (Quai des Pêcheurs).

20:00 Het mag dan wel lijken op een doorsnee winstub, maar Fink’stuebel (26 Rue Finkwiller) is een echte gastronomische broeihaard.

23:00 Living Room (11 Rue des Balayeurs) is het beste wat er qua nachtleven te vinden is in deze stad die niet meteen gekend is om zijn uitbundig feestgedruis.

Dag 2

10:00 Ga de futuristische gebouwen ontdekken die werden opgetrokken om de status van Straatsburg als officiële hub van de EG kracht bij te zetten.

13:00 Buerehiesel (4 Parc de l’Orangerie) wordt aanzien als het meest chique restaurant van de stad.

15:30 Kuier de Allé de la Robertsau af naar de universiteit en hou halt bij Café Brant (Place de l’Université) voor een drankje.

16:30 Neem een tram op lijn C naar Rue du 22 Novembre, dat het dichtst bij Petite France ligt, en wandel er rond het kleine eiland op een eiland.

19:30 L’Ami Schutz (1 Ponts Couverts) is een schilderachtige winstub.

22:00 Vind je de nacht nog te jong om nu al af te sluiten, trek dan naar Jeannette et les Cycleux (30 Rue Tonneliers) voor plezier en vertier.

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