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Autumn is the best time to take a stroll through central Europe’s most beautiful parks, mountains and forests as the leaves turn gold. Our intrepid action man Ben Mondy straps on his sturdiest hiking boots
Image Alamy, Getty Images, Photolibrary.com, Czechtourism.com
Walking the easy-to-follow mountain trails through the impressive jagged Polish and Slovak High Tatra mountains will give you superlative views of the highest and most dramatic peaks in the Carpathian range.
Perhaps the most stunning trail is the one through Pieniny National Park and the World Heritage Dunajec gorge, following the Pieniny Way.
Throughout this six-hour walk, you’ll be looking for the castles of Czorsztyn and Niedzica, the sorrel springs of Szczawnica spa resort, the stunning V-shaped rocky Homole ravine and the 14th-century classical gothic Red Monastery, which is located just over the border in Slovakia.
This area is unchanged by human activity, with natural mountain beech and spruce forests, and streams as clean and clear as anywhere in the world. Other draws include the wild animals that live here, including red deer, lynx and wolves, all of which roam through the vast meadows and forests and over moss-covered rocks.
In terms of the best time to visit, it’s hard to surpass October, which is truly beautiful here. Only the coniferous trees retain their greenery; elsewhere, bronze, red and yellow tones take over the landscape, creating a unique autumn aura known locally as “Polish golden autumn”. And all this within 100km of the medieval ruins and modern infrastructure of Krakow.
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A day spent hiking through Bavaria’s Black Forest, taking in the famous Neuschwanstein castle and Pollat gorge, might just rate as one of the world’s great walks. Start the trip by taking the cable car to the top of Tegelberg, then follow the signs to European trail no.4.
Autumn is the perfect time to visit, as the summer heat and crowds dissipate and the Black Forest rebels against its name and takes on a golden hue before the harsh winter sets in.
Following the trail, it’s a good idea to stop for lunch at Bleckenau, the former hunting lodge of Bavarian royalty. Then press on, basking in the panoramic vista of the lakes and Alps that are a constant accompaniment. You’ll eventually come to the picturesque Marienbrücke bridge over the stunning Pollat gorge, which provides the best vantage point for views of one of the world’s most famous castles, Neuschwanstein, built by Ludwig II of Bavaria.
At first glimpse of the castle, the king’s nickname of Mad King Ludwig will seem fairly apt. The design of this 19th-century fortress was based on Ludwig’s obsession with the music of Richard Wagner and the castle has a baroque Disney-style edifice. Luckily, Marienbrücke provides the fairy godmother of all views.
Well-organised guided tours are available of the castle itself, providing a cultural full stop to an incredible day of sights, castles and clean, beautiful, Black Forest air.
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Not far from Budapest, the wooded hills of Pilis, Visegrád and Börzsöny combine with the Danube to create a nature lover’s paradise and walker’s delight. The area is known as the Danube Bend, as the river turns sharply south and heads to the capital only 60km away.
Following Hungary’s well-signposted hiking trails, you can wander through the forests of beech, hornbeam, sessile oak and turkey oak as they slowly fade to burnt orange almost before your eyes. The best areas for walking are the hills of Pilis and Börzsöny. Pilis is limestone massif where the best routes lead out from Dobogóko through natural springs and unique dry oak and sweet chestnut forests. On the other side of the river, the enormous forested range of Börzsöny rises to over 900m.
The hills are cool and quiet in autumn, making it a prime time to see the enormous range of plant and bird species here, as well as the deer and wild boar. We also recommend you check out the 13th-century church of St Stephen in Nagybörzsöny, one of the finest Romanesque examples in rural Hungary.
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While many of these walks revolve around eastern and central Europe’s stunning mountains and forests, the island of Mainau on Lake Constance in southern Germany provides a much flatter and more exotic destination.
Lake Constance (or Bodensee) is the largest lake in Germany. It has a particularly mild climate in the spring and autumn, and a gentle, almost Mediterranean atmosphere.
The “flower island” offers visitors a splendid display of blooms all year round, as well as palms, orange trees and a huge number of birds. There’s also a majestic palace set in one of Europe’s most beautiful parks, home to Germany’s largest butterfly house.
In effect, the island is one large arboretum, founded by Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden in 1853. In the following decades, the collection of trees was expanded. Today, there are more than 500 different deciduous and coniferous trees here.
There are plenty of walking trails set up for the intrepid explorer, not to mention a large array of guided botanical walks if you want a little more hand-holding. Access to the island is by ferry from the town of Meersburg.
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This national park, known as “the green roof of Europe”, lies within two hours of Prague and takes in the largest forest reserve in central Europe. According to the Czech tourist board, “the perfect time to visit Šumava is autumn, when the abundance of colours of the mixed forest is at its peak”.
The national park has hundreds of pathways connecting all the major sights. However, if you haven’t set aside a few years to explore the 1,500km of trails, there are Green Buses that run on bio-diesel and connect the most popular destinations. These include Boubín primeval forest, one of the oldest such forests in central Europe, and the 3.8km trail leads walkers along the precious core of the nature reserve.
Other recommendations include the Bear Trail, a 14km hike leaving from Ovesná station, taking in the boulders and granite rock formations in Rock Town, as well as Deer Lake and Bear Stone – the site where the last bear in the Šumava region was shot.
For less nature and more culture, head to the medieval town of Cesky Krumlov, with its baroque houses, cobbled streets and impressive castle.
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Ben Mondy vous guide à travers les plus beaux paysages d’Europe
Forêt-Noire, Allemagne Une journée de randonnée à travers la Forêt-Noire en Bavière, avec un itinéraire passant par le Neuschwanstein Castle et la Gorge de Pollat, pourrait décrocher la palme des plus beaux circuits du monde. Point de départ : prenez le téléphérique au sommet du Tegelberg, suivez ensuite les indications de la piste européenne n°4. L’automne est une saison idéale pour entreprendre ce périple, les chaleurs de l’été ayant disparu, tout comme la foule. C’est aussi le moment où la Forêt-Noire se départit de son nom en se parant de teintes aux reflets dorés.
Danube, Hongrie Non loin de Budapest, les collines boisées de Pilis, Visegrád et Börzsöny se conjuguent aux méandres du Danube pour créer un paradis dédié aux amoureux de la nature. Les zones qui se prêtent le mieux à la marche sont les Monts Pilis, un massif calcaire, et les Monts du Börzsöny, une imposante chaîne montagneuse couverte de forêts, qui s’élève jusqu’à 900m.
Parc National de Šumava, République tchèque Le ‘Toit vert de l’Europe’, une des plus grandes réserves forestières d’Europe centrale se trouve à deux heures de Prague. Les randonnées à faire sont nombreuses : environ 1 500km de sentiers touristiques y sont tracés, ce qui pourrait vous prendre quelques années à explorer ! Des Bus verts relient le Parc aux destinations les plus fréquentées.
Parc Naturel national des Pieniny, Pologne Une randonnée à travers les hautes montagnes Tatras vous offre des vues sublimes des sommets les plus pittoresques de la chaîne des Carpates. Le paysage reste préservé de toute activité humaine et il abrite de nombreuses espèces animales, dont les grands cerfs, les lynx et les loups. Octobre est une magnifique saison pour s’y aventurer, au moment où la verdure prend des tonalités bronze, rouges et jaunes.
Le lac de Constance, Allemagne L’île de Mainau sur le lac de Constance, ou “le Bodensee”, est une des destinations les plus luxuriantes et exotiques pour une journée de paisible randonnée. Celle qui est surnommée ‘l’île aux fleurs’ offre durant toute l’année aux visiteurs un paradis de jardins, abritant des centaines de fleurs. La serre aux papillons – un des plus grands refuges de papillons en Allemagne – est également un lieu magique.
Ben Mondy is je gids doorheen de mooiste natuurpracht van Europa
Het Zwarte Woud, Duitsland Een dag rondtrekken in het Zwarte Woud van Bavaria, met onderweg een bezoek aan het kasteel Neuschwanstein en Pollat Gorge, staat hoog op het lijstje van ’s werelds mooiste wandelingen. Begin met een ritje in de kabelbaan naar de top van de Tegelberg en volg eens boven de pijlen van het Europese pad nr. 4. Een bezoek in de herfst is ideaal, enerzijds omdat de verzengende hitte en de mensenmassa verdwenen zijn en anderzijds omdat het Zwarte Woud dan ondanks zijn naam in prachtige gouden tinten getooid gaat.
Danube, Hongarije Vlak bij Boedapest vormen de beboste heuvels van Pilis, Visegrád en Börzsöny samen met de slingerende Danube voor een waar paradijs voor natuurliefhebbers. De heuvels van Pilis en Börzsöny zijn de beste wandelgebieden. Pilis is een kalkmassief, de heuvels van Börzsöny vormen een enorme keten van wouden die tot meer dan 900 m hoog torenen.
Šumava National Park, Tsjechië Het ‘Groene Dak van Europa’ ligt op minder dan twee uur van Praag en bevat het grootste bosreservaat van Centraal-Europa. Je hebt er de keuze uit honderden bewegwijzerde paden maar als je niet meteen een paar jaar de tijd hebt om de 1500 km aan paden te gaan verkennen, kies je best voor de Groene Bussen die de populairste plekjes met elkaar verbinden.
Pieniny National Park, Polen Tijdens een wandeling in de High Tatras bergen krijg je adembenemende vergezichten van de hoogste pieken van de Karpaten. De streek is nog onaangetast door menselijke activiteiten en een thuis voor vele dieren, waaronder edelherten, lynxen en wolven. Trek er heen in oktober, wanneer het groen er plaats ruimt voor koperen, rode en gele tinten.
Het Meer van Konstanz, Duitsland Het eiland Mainau in het Meer van Konstanz, of het Bodenmeer, heeft meer dan genoeg exotische bezienswaardigheden voor een zalig dagje kuieren. Op het zogenoemde ‘Bloemeneiland’ kunnen bezoekers het hele jaar door prachtige bloesems bewonderen. Verder is ook het majestueuze paleis een bezoekje waard. De grootste vlindertuin van Duitsland is er in ondergebracht.