Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

After the fall

As Berlin gears up to celebrate the fall of the Wall, John Kelly takes in the city’s highlights

t may have been two decades since Berlin was reunited, but its mottled past means visitors to Germany’s intriguing capital still encounter a tale of two cities. West Berlin heaves with the ostentatious lure of designer boutiques and exclusive clubs, while the influence of East Berlin’s communist past is seen in the plethora of squats and anarchist-run cafés along its sweeping boulevards.

Wherever your interests lie, they will find an outlet in this multifaceted metropolis. Famously eclectic and notoriously debauched, Berlin’s decadent character constantly thrills. And now is a particularly good time to see it in full swing – with celebrations to mark the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Wall reaching a climax, visitors and locals have yet another reason to toast this ebullient city.

First-time visitors to Berlin should start at Potsdamer Platz. Located in the city centre, this complex of gleaming skyscrapers straddles the former divide of East and West Berlin and was wasteland between the two severed states until the Wall fell. Now home to gleaming boutiques and international corporations, its sweeping scale and futuristic style have made it a byword for revitalised, confident Berlin.

Ascend Europe’s fastest elevator at 1 Potsdamer Platz to the Panoramapunkt viewing platform for a spectacular view across the city, before taking a closer look at priceless works of art by artists such as Jeff Koons and Andy Warhol at the Daimler Contemporary collection in Haus Huth (5 Alte Potsdamer Strasse, sammlung.daimler.com).

For an alternative cultural fix, check out the Boros Collection (20 Reinhardtstrasse; sammlung-boros.de). Once a Second World War bunker, this hulking building now houses contemporary art by provocative artists such as Damien Hirst and Wolfgang Tillmans, and its private exhibition space can be visited on weekends, subject to appointment.

Also inimitably Berlin, but infinitely more ramshackle, is Tacheles (54-56a Oranienburgerstrasse, super.tacheles. de). The dilapidated building had been scheduled for demolition in 1990, but was taken over by a collective of artists who converted it into studios and an exhibition space. An amble through its cavernous interior is an exciting way to explore the city’s creative insurgency.

Cultural urges sated, fundamental needs are also well served in Berlin. While the city has yet to develop a reputation as a gastronomic capital, celebrity chef Tim Raue’s Asian-inspired restaurant Ma (72 Behrenstrasse, tel. ) is gaining an international fanbase. Although the restaurant’s curious concoctions, such as pig chin with blood orange, might initially seem as incongruous as its slate and cashmere design scheme, they work together perfectly - and at a price that indicates the ingredients’ exceptional quality.

The menu at gay-friendly Schneeweiss (16 Simplonstrasse, tel ), or ‘Snow White’, may not be as adventurous, but its icy décor encapsulates ‘cool Berlin’ in more ways than one. Located on an innocuous side street in the student enclave of Friedrichshain, it’s easy to miss the inconspicuous entrance, but once discovered its stark white design leaves a lasting impression. The cuisine itself shows more warmth, offering modern interpretations of traditional German food, and the beautifully presented dishes are as pleasing to look at as the friendly staff that serve them.

From Friedrichshain, make your way past store Berlinomat (89 Frankfurter Allee, berlinomat.com) to pick up cool products and clothing made by local designers, before taking a quick tram ride to Prenzlauer Berg, one of Berlin’s most fashionable neighbourhoods.

Although the mass of creative types who migrated here in the 1990s have settled somewhat - as evidenced by the profusion of buggies that clutter the roadside cafés - it’s still a good spot for after-hours entertainment. KulturBrauerei (36 Schönhauser Allee, kulturbrauerei-berlin.de) is a collection of independent clubs, restaurants and bars that often hosts cultural events and concerts as well as raucous club nights, such as Berlin Hilton gay night at NBI every Wednesday.

Those who are perpetually unable to resist the lure of Berlin’s cheap beer and lenient licensing laws can compensate by engaging in some keep-fit activity at Dr Pong (21 Eberswalder Strasse, drpong.net). Despite its diminutive size, the bar contains a table-tennis table where drinkers engage in frenzied communal matches, paddle in one hand and beer in the other. Sunday afternoon is a popular time to visit, as satisfied shoppers compare new purchases from the weekly flea market in adjacent Mauerpark. Often offering bargain cast-offs from the area’s fashionable set, it’s a good place to pick up souvenirs and assorted curios.

Further drinking options abound on Oranienstrasse. Located in the Turkish district of Kreuzberg, the area has become increasingly popular with the many aspiring DJs and creatives who move to Berlin. After discovering there are no jobs to get up for in the morning, they’re to be found propping up the bars until late into the night. Recent addition Luzia (34 Oranienstrasse, luzia.tc) attracts the beautiful and nonchalant with its understated interior, salvaged furniture and wall paintings courtesy of artist Chin Chin. A particularly good way to observe the talent on offer is to go to the cocooned space on the upper level of the bar, accessible only by ladder.

At the other end of the street is Berlin institution SO36 (190 Oranienstrasse, so36.de). As the harbinger of the city’s punk scene, it once hosted artists such as Iggy Pop and David Bowie, and it still offers an impressive line-up of future rock stars and subversive club nights. Berlin’s most notorious club is the legendary Berghain (berghain.de) – it defies categorisation and is the city’s everyone-knows-anything-goes club. Housed in a former power plant on an industrial estate by Ostbahnhof, bridging Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain, the sprawling club is famed across the world for its techno parties and the debauched behaviour that takes place inside. Cameras are confiscated at the door and the venue is devoid of mirrors, so be prepared for your dishevelled state when you eventually leave its murky environs – Saturday night parties frequently last until Sunday evening.

Well placed for exhausted clubbers is nearby Ostel (5 Wriezener Karree, tel. , ostel.eu). Reflecting the growing sense of Ostalgie (nostalgia for the communist heritage of East Berlin), its kitsch interior features authentic GDR-period furnishings and mustard-coloured wallpaper.

Slick accommodation alternatives cluster in West Berlin, including Hotel Concorde Berlin (41 Augsburger Strasse, tel , berlin.concorde-hotels.com). Boasting Berlin’s largest rooms, guests could easily enjoy a weekend ensconced in the luxury surroundings, but its prime location on Berlin’s premier shopping street Kurfürstendamm, known locally as just Ku’damm, is enough to tempt most guests outside.

One of Berlin’s newest hotels also lies nearby. Behind KaDeWe - continental Europe’s largest department store - is the ‘heterofriendly’ gay boutique hotel Axel (13/15 Lietzenburger Strasse, tel. , axelhotels.com). The hotel’s policy of serving breakfast until 2pm on weekends is popular with clubbers, but its tendency to play dance music throughout the hotel may be unwelcome should you wish to catch up on some R&R - although, if that’s the case, you may be in the wrong city.

FR Après le mur...

Cela fait deux décennies déjà que Berlin a été réunifiée et cependant la ville garde toujours des traces de son passé hétéroclite.

Les visiteurs qui se rendent dans la capitale allemande retrouvent immanquablement l’histoire de deux cités. Berlin Ouest regorge de boutiques de designers et de clubs exclusifs, tandis que le passé communiste de Berlin Est se manifeste dans la pléthore de squats et de cafés d’esprit anarchiste.

Pour ceux qui s’y rendent pour la première fois, le meilleur point de départ est la Potsdamer Platz, à l’origine un carrefour aux portes de Berlin, place mythique de la division Est/Ouest encombrée d’une multitude de gratte-ciel. Prenez l’ascenseur au 1 Potsdamer Platz jusqu’à la plateforme du Panoramapunkt, avant d’aller visiter les œuvres d’art contemporain de la Collection Daimler à la Haus Huth (5 Alte Potsdamer Strasse).

Du côté culinaire, tous les besoins peuvent être assouvis. Le chef Tim Raue du restaurant d’inspiration asiatique Ma (72 Behrenstrasse) est en train de se gagner un club de fans au niveau international, tandis que le décor tout blanc du Schneeweiss (16 Simplonstrasse) fait plutôt partie du ‘Berlin cool’.

De Friedrichshain jusqu’au Prenzlauerberg, l’un des quartiers les plus trendy de Berlin, il n’y a qu’un court trajet en tram. C’est un endroit parfait pour les sorties. Kulturbrauerei (36 Schönhauser Allee) aligne les clubs indépendants, les bars et les restaurants. Pour les amateurs qui ne peuvent résister aux bières berlinoises bon marché – en outre les règles sont assez souples dans les débits de boisson - il existe un lieu pour compenser en gardant la forme : le Dr Pong (21 Eberswalder Strasse), un bar équipé d’une table de ping-pong. Les alternatives pour boire un verre sont légion le long de l’Oranienstrasse. Luzia (34 Oranienstrasse) attire la beauté et la nonchalance, et l’institution de Berlin SO36 (190 Oranienstrasse) continue à proposer une impressionnante cuvée de futures rock stars et de night-clubs subversifs. Le club le plus célèbre de tout Berlin, le légendaire Berghain (berghain.de), se trouve dans l’arrondissement industriel d’Ostbahnhof.

L’Ostel (5 Wriezener Karree) est un hôtel bien situé pour les “clubbers” épuisés. Son intérieur kitsch reprend des composants du mobilier de l’époque de la RDA avec un tapissage des murs couleur moutarde. D’autres offres d’hébergements de qualité sont disponibles à Berlin Ouest, parmi eux l’Hôtel Concorde Berlin (41 Augsburger Strasse) et l’hôtel gay ‘franchement amical’ Axel (13/15 Lietzenburger Strasse).

NL Na de val

Het is nu al een decennium of twee geleden dat de stad weer één werd gemaakt. Maar toch zorgt het zeer bewogen verleden van Berlijn ervoor dat bezoekers in de Duitse hoofdstad nog steeds een stad met twee gezichten terugvinden

West-Berlijn is bezaaid met designerboetieks en exclusieve clubs, terwijl het communistische verleden van het oostelijke stadsdeel nog makkelijk terug te vinden is in de talloze kraakpanden en anarchistencafés

Wie de stad voor het eerst bezoekt, zou eigenlijk moeten starten op de Potsdamer Platz, een hoogbouwgeheel dat oprijst aan weerszijden van de vroegere scheidingslijn tussen oost en west. Neem de lift op 1 Potsdamer Platz naar het uitkijkpunt “Panoramapunkt”, vóór u de kunstwerken gaat bewonderen van de Daimler Contemporary-collectie in het Haus Huth (5 Alte Potsdamer Strasse).

Ook de innerlijke mens wordt niet vergeten. Het Aziatisch geïnspireerde restaurant Ma van chef Tim Raue (72 Behrenstrasse) weet een internationale schare fans te lokken, terwijl het ijzige decor in restaurant Schneeweiss (16 Simplonstrasse) symbool staat voor het “coole” Berlijn.

Van Friedrichshain gaat het via een snelle tramrit naar Prenzlauerberg, een van de meest trendy wijken van Berlijn en een prima plek voor late stappers. Kulturbrauerei (36 Schönhauser Allee) is een verzameling onafhankelijke clubs, bars en restaurants. Wie geen nee kan zeggen tegen de verlokkingen van Berlijns goedkope bier en de soepele manier van omgaan met drankvergunningen, kan dat compenseren met wat beweging bij Dr Pong (21 Eberswalder Strasse), een bar met een pingpongtafel. Nog meer drinkplezier valt er overvloedig te beleven langs de Oranienstrasse. Luzia (34 Oranienstrasse) trekt veel schoon en nonchalant volk en de Berlijnse club SO36 (190 Oranienstrasse) blijft nog steeds een indrukwekkend aantal rocksterren in de dop en subversieve clubconcerten produceren. Berlijns meest beruchte club, de legendarische Berghain (berghain.de), bevindt zich in een industriële omgeving in de buurt van het Ostbahnhof.

Een hotel dat ideaal is gelegen voor vermoeide clubbers is Ostel (5 Wriezener Karree). Het kitscherige interieur wordt gekenmerkt door talloze DDR-prullaria en mosterdkleurig behang. Voor meer commerciële accommodatiealternatieven moet u in West-Berlijn zijn, zoals in Hotel Concorde Berlin (41 Augsburger Strasse) en het “heterovriendelijke” homohotel Axel (13/15 Lietzenburger Strasse).

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