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Beyond Tel Aviv

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Tel Aviv may be Israel’s cultural and commercial core, but it’s also an easy-to-manage departure point for side trips throughout the country. Linked to nearly every corner of Israel via bus, train and aeroplane, Tel Aviv – particularly during the holiday season – is merely the beginning of an adventure Israel-wide, says David Kaufman

Although Israel is belovedly known as the Holy Land, it offers attractions that are both pious and pop – ranging from historic churches, mosques and synagogues to scuba diving, winery touring and even spa-hopping. Choose a distraction, choose a destination and you’ll quickly be pursuing your passion – all just an easy journey from your base back in Tel Aviv.

At just an hour away – and home to both the sacred and the secular – Jerusalem is an ideal first stop. Much is new in this 5,000-year-old city – including the soaring, Santiago Calatrava-designed Chords Bridge at Jerusalem’s western entrance. Opened in summer 2008, the Chords looms nearly 400 feet above the city’s western Jewish half and is named after the 66 steel chords that define its mast. The Chords is Calatrava’s first – and only – bridge to ferry both pedestrian and light-rail passengers.

Just past the Chords is the new Mamilla Hotel (11 King Solomon Street, 2 , www.mamillahotel.com), a stone-clad luxury abode filled with an impressive array of modern furniture by the likes of Cassina, Knoll and Kartell, capped by a roof-top bar with prime views of the capital’s historic Old City. Pop in for an afternoon snack before visiting the nearby Western Wall or Dome of the Rock – significant shrines for Jews and Muslims. Finish up the day with a visit to a pair of key Jerusalem museums – Yad Vashem (Ein Kerem, www.yadvashem.org) and the Israel Museum (Ruppin Boulevard, www.english.imjnet.org.il).

The first is a modernist memorial to the Holocaust – a swooping, 600-foot-long tube jutting through the Mount of Remembrance, designed by acclaimed Israeli-Canadian architect Moshe Safdie. The latter is Israel’s most venerable cultural institution – home to the mythic Dead Sea Scrolls, with a sculpture garden designed by Isamu Noguchi. Next spring, the 20-acre museum will have finished an expansion that adds some 200,000 square feet of light-drenched exhibition space.

Close to Jerusalem are two of the region’s must-see wonders: Bethlehem and the Dead Sea. Officially located in the West Bank, a visit to Bethlehem requires some prep work. Grab a cab from Jerusalem to the Beit Jala checkpoint on the Israel-West Bank border and switch to a West Bank-based taxi. Once in town, check into the Jacir Palace Intercontinental Bethlehem (Hebron Road, , www.interconti.com). Its 250 rooms are set in an elegant historic palace with lobby, lounge, restaurants and bars.

Ask the concierge to arrange a city tour and driver – with stops at Manger Square, Shepherds’ Field, the Church of the Nativity and the bucolic Cremisan Monastery.

Barely an hour from both Bethlehem and Jerusalem, is the Dead Sea. Set 1,385 feet below sea level, the Dead Sea’s healing powers have been renowned since Biblical times – luring the likes of King Solomon, the Queen of Sheba and Cleopatra with their medicinal qualities.

Experience the Dead Sea in style at the newly opened Isrotel (Ein Bokek, , www.isrotel.com) resort and spa – whose 297 rooms come with white-on-white interiors, airy balconies and prime Dead Sea views straight across to Jordan. The hotel’s spa has 18 treatment rooms – for massages using rich Dead Sea muds – a quartet of sulphur pools, indoor/outdoor Jacuzzis and dry and wet saunas. The thoroughly therapeutic experience mimics the Dead Sea’s own waters, which are themselves just a short stroll away.

Back on the coast is Caesarea – one of Israel’s most important archaeological sites, with ruins dating back to the Roman Empire 2,000 years ago. Originally built by the emperor Herod the Great, the one-time settlement included a grand amphitheatre, two-mile-long harbour, aqueduct, hippodrome and a population of over 125,000. Remnants of all of these now dot Caesarea’s tourist zone, along with forts built during the Crusades.

Beyond Caesarea are two of Israel’s most important cities – Haifa and Nazareth, both of historic and spiritual significance. Although relatively new, Haifa – Israel’s third largest city and its main port town – is home to the stunning Bahai Gardens, a true wonder, cascading down the scenic Carmel hills with a melange of classical structures and terraced greenery.

Haifa is the gateway to Israel’s northern Galilee region – filled with lush vineyards, quaint artist colonies and hilltop spiritual sites. Stay at the waterfront Scots Hotel (Tiberias, www.scotshotels.co.il) right on the Sea of Galilee itself. The 69 rooms are spread between a historic 19th-century church hospital and a modern addition. The hotel boasts one of the only private Sea of Galilee beaches in Tiberias.

By day, visit Nazareth to shop in its teeming souk (market) and visit the Basilica of the Annunciation, where Jesus’ birth was heralded. Stroll along Paul VI Street to snack on perhaps Israel’s best Arab sweets, but save room for dinner at Diana (Paul VI Street, ), for simple yet exquisite local cuisine (kebabs, grilled meats, Middle Eastern salads). Or experience a slice of Israel’s burgeoning wine industry with a tour of the Dalton Winery ( 4698-7683, www.dalton-winery.com), one of the nation’s top estates, which produces over 600,000 bottles annually. English-language tours are available. Follow this up with an alfresco kosher lunch overlooked by the snow-capped Mount Hermon towering in the background.

If time permits, head for Israel’s extreme south and the Red Sea resort of Eilat. An hour’s flight – or five-hour bus ride – from Tel Aviv, Eilat has come a long way since its package-tourism past. Today, the city hosts high-end cultural events (jazz, dance, classical music), along with its more typical range of water sports.

Below the surface, Eilat’s coral reefs are among the region’s best and can be experienced up-close-and-personal with a reef tour from the Red Sea Sports Club ( ), which offers excursions for all abilities.

Alternatively, set sail on the Shunit (), a wind-powered cruiser that plies the placid waters from Eilat to the Jordanian border and south to the Sinai Peninsula, with stops for coral dives and dolphin sightings.

If you’re feeling especially adventurous, head over to Jordan for a day trip to Petra, the lost Nabatean city carved in pink sandstone. The Yitzhak Rabin Border Terminal is about 10 minutes by cab from most hotels, where taxis will pick you up for the 90-minute drive to Petra. Plan to spend about four hours onsite, and then make it back to the border and Eilat by the time the sun sets.

FR Point de départ : Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv est sans conteste le cœur culturel et économique d’Israël, mais c’est également un point de départ pratique pour bon nombre d’excursions à travers le pays, dit David Kaufman

Ce n’est pas parce qu’Israël est connue comme la Terre Sainte qu’elle ne peut pas offrir d’attractions à la fois profanes et pieuses – des églises historiques, mosquées et synagogues jusqu’à la plongée, tours des vignobles et même cures thermales.

Jérusalem est une première étape idéale. Une grande partie de cette ville de 5 000 ans est nouvelle et à ce propos on notera le fabuleux pont de cordes conçu par Santiago Calatrava. Un peu plus loin que le pont se trouve le nouvel Hôtel Mamilla, un ouvrage de luxe aux murs couverts de pierres, coiffé d’un bar avec des vues imprenables de la vieille capitale historique.

À une heure à peine de Jérusalem se trouve la mer Morte. À 417m sous le niveau de la mer, les vertus thérapeutiques de la mer Morte sont reconnues depuis les temps bibliques. Elle a apporté ses bienfaits et ses vertus médicinales à des personnalités comme le Roi Salomon, la Reine de Sheba et Cléopâtre. Séjournez dans la station thermale Isrotel récemment ouverte.

De retour sur la côte se trouve Caesarea, l’un des plus importants sites archéologiques d’Israël. Certaines ruines remontent à l’Empire Romain, dont un des premiers bâtisseurs fut l’empereur Hérode le Grand. Plus loin que Caesarea, vous découvrirez les deux plus éminentes villes d’Israël - Haïfa et Nazareth, toutes deux riches d’une signification historique et spirituelle. Haïfa – troisième plus grande ville d’Israël et principale ville portuaire – abrite les surprenants Jardins de Baha’i, une vraie merveille qui descend en cascade le long des collines panoramiques du Mont Carmel, où se combinent structures classiques et espaces de verdure étagés en terrasses.

Haïfa est la porte d’accès à la région du nord d’Israël, couverte de vignobles verdoyants. Elle recèle également la pittoresque ‘Colonie Allemande’ et de nombreux lieux de culte. Enfin, si votre planning le permet, rendez-vous dans l’extrême sud du pays, dans la ville d’Eilat au bord de la mer Rouge, qui accueille des événements culturels de grande ampleur (jazz, danse, musique classique).

L’endroit offre également une gamme étendue d’activités de loisirs à pratiquer sur et sous l’eau.

NL Voorbij Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is Israëls culturele en commerciële centrum, maar het is ook een goedgelegen vertrekplaats voor excursies doorheen het hele land, zegt David Kaufman

Hoewel Israël alom bekend staat als het heilige land, biedt het attracties aan die zowel godsvruchtig als populair zijn—gaande van historische kerken, Moskeeën en synagogen tot diepzeeduiken, wijnroutes en zelfs spa-hopping.

Jeruzalem is een ideale eerste stopplaats. Veel is nieuw in deze 5.000 jaar oude stad –inclusief het thermiekvliegen. Santiago Calatrava ontwikkelde Chords Bridge, ook wel snarenbrug genoemd. Juist voorbij de snaren is het nieuwe Mamilla Hotel, een met steen beklede luxeverblijfplaats waarboven een dakterras met bar en schitterend uitzicht over het historische gedeelte van de hoofdstad.

Jeruzalem is amper een uur verwijderd van de Dode Zee (1.385 voet onder het zeeniveau). De helende krachten van de Dode Zee zijn al sinds Bijbelse tijden beroemd en trokken zo met hun genezende kwaliteiten mensen als koning Solomon, de koningin van Sheba en Cleopatra aan. Verblijf in het onlangs geopende Isrotel resort en Spa.

Terug aan de kust is Caesarea – één van Israëls belangrijkste archeologische plaatsen, met ruïnes die teruggaan naar het Romeinse Rijk en oorspronkelijk gebouwd werden door keizer Herodes de Grote. Voorbij Caesarea liggen twee van Israëls belangrijkste steden – Haifa en Nazareth, beiden zowel historisch als spiritueel belangrijk. Haifa is Israëls derde grootste stad en de belangrijkste havenstad. Je vindt er de magnifieke Bahai tuinen, een echt wonder dat als een waterval de pittoreske Carmelheuvels afkomt met een mix van klassieke structuren en terrastuinen.

Haifa is de doorgang naar Israëls noordelijke Galilea gebied – gevuld met weelderige wijngaarden, schilderachtige artiesten-kolonies en spirituele plaatsen op de heuvels. Ga, tot slot en als je de tijd hebt, naar Israëls extreme zuiden en de ‘Rode Zee’-Stad Eilat die zowel hoogstaande culturele evenementen (jazz, dance, klassieke muziek) organiseert, als het iets meer typische onder- en bovenwater plezier.

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