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36 Hours in Bilbao

Image 4 Corners, Getty Images, Helen Cathcart, Purple Cloud

Bilbao is unrecognisable from its relatively recent incarnation as a run-down northern Spanish port. Expect excellent art, architecture and food, says Scott Adams

Once just an industrial backwater, Bilbao was transformed in the late 90s by the arrival of Frank Gehry’s shining titanium masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum. The city is now regarded as a hub of cutting-edge architecture and contemporary art, and hundreds of thousands of visitors flock here every year. It’s even lent its name to the notion of an entire region’s fortunes being reversed by one building – ‘the Bilbao effect’.

Separated neatly into two halves by the Nervión river, the northern side houses the old town, which can trace its roots back to the 13th century. Across the river there’s the new town, which was originally settled in the 19th century and has a very different ambience. The formally planned streets are wide and lined with name-brand stores, outdoor cafés, restaurants and clubs. Here, head for the Guggenheim, which houses an eclectic collection of modern art, before walking down to the river, the real focal point of the city. Every visitor should make time to stroll along its landscaped banks, taking in the glorious views which change from morning to night.

Day one

09:00
Start the day with a strong café con leche (white coffee) and traditional Spanish churros (crunchy long doughnuts) at Café Iruña (Jardines de Alba, Calle Colón de Larreátegui). The opulent 19th-century interior has plenty of “wow” factor.

10:00
Turn left making your way up towards Plaza Moyúa. Known locally as los gusanos (the worms), the glass and steel entrances to the metro provide a stunning contrast to the old buildings surrounding them, and make for a good photo opportunity. From Plaza Moyúa, head into the tree-lined Gran Vía for a bit of retail therapy. Check out the fabulous fashions at Lord Sam (Number 5) and Tous (Number 7).

11:30
At the end of Gran Vía, leave the bustle behind and enter the green expanse of one of Bilbao’s most beautiful parks, Parque de Doña Casilda Iturrizar. Sit for a while and enjoy the view down to the river, or watch the ducks and swans in the pond.

12:30
At the eastern end of the park is Bilbao’s Museo de Bellas Artes (2 Museo Plaza). The permanent collection includes a large section devoted to Basque artists. Until 17 January there’s an exhibition of around 50 early works by the 17th-century Spanish artist, Murillo.

14:30
From the museum, it’s just a short walk to Serantes III (75 Calle Alameda Mazarredo, tel. ) for lunch. The menu focuses on Spanish favourites like thinly sliced Iberian ham and chorizo. The squid, cooked in its own ink is exceptional, as are the seafood platters. Wine forms a big part of any meal in Spain, and the local white, Bizkaiako Txacolina, is refreshingly crisp.

17:00
Walk off the meal by heading back down to the river and turn left. The pleasant boardwalk passes through what was an industrial wasteland five years ago. Pause and take in the rusted façade of the Palacio de Congresos y Música, Bilbao’s massive concert hall, before heading back along the same route. Stop for a pick-me-up coffee at Ibaiberri (Paseo Abandoibarra), which is located along the path.

19:00
Order a beer or perhaps a glass of Palacios de Bornos wine, along with a tapa of Basque Idiazabal cheese at Café Nervión (7 Calle La Naja). Sit at the large windows and watch the river flowing by.

21:30
It’s been around for years, but the quality of the food, the attention to detail and the friendly service make El Perro Chico (2 Calle Aretxaga, tel. ) a very popular haunt with the locals and visitors alike. Specialising in Basque cuisine, the menu includes a mouthwatering dish of cod cooked with aubergines and tomato.

23:00
Cotton Club (25 Gregorio de La Revilla) attracts a loyal crowd of thirtysomethings. Along with DJ sets, there are regular live acts, such as the Garrett Wall Band or Hendrik Rover.

Day two

09:00
Mix with the locals for breakfast at Lizarra (15 Atxuri Kalea, tel. ). Order a strong coffee and the Spanish favourite: toast with fresh tomato and olive oil.

10:00
Take a stroll and allow yourself to get lost for a while in the cobblestoned streets of the old town as you check out the many shops, including the old-world charm of the hat shop Sombreros Gorostiaga (9 Calle Victor). Get yourself back on track with a visit to the 14th-century Cathedral (Done Jakue Plazatxoa), dedicated to Saint James.

13:00
Pop into the Plaza Nueva and enjoy the lively atmosphere in this historic square. Bar Zuga (4 Plaza Nueva) is a great spot to have vermouth on the rocks with a creamy crab tapa.

15:00
Lunch in Bilbao is leisurely. Ricardo Perez at Yandiola (15 Paseo del Campo Volantin, tel. ) serves up local dishes like bacalao pil pil (cod with a thick parsley and garlic sauce), and lamb and pork meatballs.

17:00
Walk off the meal with a brisk stroll along the riverbank heading west. Have your camera at the ready when you spot the Santiago Calatrava-designed bridge and the magnificent Guggenheim Museum on the opposite bank. Cross over the Pedro Arrupe Bridge and check out the enormous spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, directly in front of the Guggenheim.

18:00
Visit the Guggenheim Museum (2 Avenida Abandoibarra). Until 14 February it plays host to an extensive exhibition dedicated to architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

21:00
Just a short walk from the Guggenheim Museum, Monty (16 Calle Heros, tel. ) is a popular hangout with hungry locals and has won lots of prizes for its tapas. Order a glass of Rioja, along with a couple of plates of sand crab, battered cod with red peppers, and whitebait with parsley sauce.

00:00
Finish the night at La Compañia del Ron (23 Calle Maximo Aguirre). This cosy bar only sells rum, but has over 100 labels, including some real rarities.

Where to stay

Old town With its quiet, cosy rooms, gym, and restaurant, the Sirimiri Hotel (3 Plaza Encarnación, tel. , www.hotelsirimiri.es, rooms from €70) is hard to beat for value. The Petit Palace Arana (2 Calle Bidebarrieta, tel. , www.hthoteles.com, rooms from €73) has sleek design-led rooms, free Wi-fi and is right in the epicentre of Bilbao. There is also a bike-hire service.

By the river Modern and stylish, the Sheraton Bilbao (29 Calle Lehendakari Leizaola, tel. , www.sheraton-bilbao.com, rooms from €105) comes complete with cosy bar, fitness centre and sauna.

Plaza Moyúa For classic charm and old-world luxury, you can’t beat the Hotel Carlton (2 Plaza Moyúa, tel. , www.aranzazu-hoteles.com, rooms from €77).

FR 36 heures à Bilbao

Bilbao est méconnaissable depuis qu’elle a relégué son ancien statut (pas si ancien que ça toutefois) de port délabré du Nord de l’Espagne. Au cours d’un week-end, les visiteurs peuvent s’attendre à y trouver en égale proportion des expositions d’art, une architecture et une cuisine d’exception. Un parcours de Scott Adams.

Jour 1
09:00 Démarrez la journée avec un café fort con leche et les traditionnels churros espagnols au Café Iruña (Jardines de Alba).

10.00 Promenez-vous dans la Gran Vía bordée d’arbres pour une petite cure de shopping.

11.30 Appréciez la vue le long du fleuve jusqu’au Parc Doña Casilda Iturrizar.

12.30 La collection permanente du Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao (2 Museo Plaza) comprend une importante section dédiée aux artistes basques.

14.30 Le Serantes III (75 Carrer Akla Mazarredo) prépare des spécialités espagnoles comme le poulpe cuisiné dans sa propre encre, un délice étonnant !

17.00 Descendez le fleuve et tournez à gauche. Faites une halte à cet endroit pour découvrir la façade vétuste du Palacio de Congresos y Música. Prenez le temps de déguster un café à l’Ibaiberri (Paseo Abandoibarra).

19.00 Commandez une bière au Café Nervion (2 Calle Dos de Mayo).

21.30 El Perro Chico (2 Calle Aretxaga) se spécialise dans la cuisine basque, avec des plats comme le cabillaud aux aubergines et aux tomates.

23.00 Le Cotton Club (25 Gregorio de La Revilla) attire une foule d’habitués de trentenaires et plus.

Jour 2
09:00 Commandez un café bien tassé et un toast à la tomate fraîche et à l’huile d’olive chez Lizarra (15 Atxuri Kalea).

10.00 Tombez sous le charme de la devanture ancienne du magasin de chapeaux Sombreros Gorostiaga (9 Calle Victor) et de la Cathédrale Santiago du 14ème siècle (Done Jakue Plazatxoa).

13.00 Commandez un vermouth on the rocks avec une tapa de crabe à la crème au Bar Zuga (4 Plaza Nueva).

15.00 Le Yandiola (15 Paseo del Campo Volantin) sert des délices du coin comme le bacalao pil pil (de la morue préparée avec du persil plat et une sauce à l’ail).

18.00 Plongez-vous dans les collections du Musée Guggenheim (2 Abandoibarra Et.).

21.00 Commandez un verre de Rioja et du crabe de sable au Monty (16 Calle Heros).

00.00 Terminez la nuit à La Compañia del Ron (23 Calle Maximo Aguirre).

NL 36 uren in Bilbao

Bilbao is niet meer te herkennen na zijn vorige (en relatief recente) incarnatie als een verouderde haven in het noorden van Spanje. Weekendgasten mogen hier uitmuntende kunst en prachtige culinaire creaties verwachten, zegt Scott Adams

Dag 1
09:00 Start de dag met café con leche (sterke koffie met melk) en traditionele Spaanse churros (soort gefrituurd koekje) in Café Iruña (Jardines de Alba).

10.00 Ga naar de Gran Vía om er te gaan shoppen, terwijl je aan weerszijden tussen bomen loopt.

11.30 Geniet van het uitzicht op de rivier Parque Doña Casilda Iturrizar.

12.30 Bilbao’s Museo de Bellas Artes’ (2 Museum Plaza) permanente collectie bevat een groot deel gewijd aan Baskische kunstenaars.

14.30 Serantes III (75 Carrer Akla Mazarredo) bereidt typisch Spaanse gerechten. De inktvis, gekookt in zijn eigen inkt, is subliem.

17.00 Ga naar de rivier en sla linksaf. Pauzeer even en neem de rustieke gevel van het Palacio de Congresos y Música in je op. Stop voor een koffie bij Ibaiberri (Paseo Abandoibarra).

19.00 Bestel een biertje bij Café Nervion (2 Calle Dos de Mayo).

21.30 El Perro Chico (2 Calle Aretxaga) is gespecialiseerd in de Baskische keuken, zoals kabeljauw met aubergines en tomaten.

23.00 Cotton Club (25 Gregorio de La Revilla) is het mekka van een loyale bende van geslaagde dertigers.

Dag 2
09:00 Bestel sterke koffie en toast met verse tomaten en olijfolie bij Lizarra (15 Atxuri Kalea).

10.00 Maak kennis met de charme van weleer van hoedenwinkel Sombreros Gorostiaga (9 Calle Victor) en van de veertiendeeeuwse Santiago Cathedral (Done Jakue Plazatxoa).

13.00 Bestel vermout met ijs met romige krab tapa bij Bar Zuga (4 Plaza Nueva).

15.00 Yandiola (15 Paseo del Campo Volantin) serveert lokale gerechten zoals bacalao pil pil (kabeljauw klaargemaakt met peterselie en looksaus).

18.00 Verdiep je in de collecties van het Guggenheim Museum (2 Abandoibarra Et.).

21.00 Bestel een glas Rioja en zandkrab bij Monty (16 Calle Heros).

00.00 Sluit je avond af in La Compañia del Ron (23 Calle Maximo Aguirre).

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