Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

My Faro

Images Getty Images, Paul Rouse

When Ricarda Knuth left her native Berlin to set up a walking tour company, Algarverde, she discovered there was much more to Portugal’s southern shores than sun, sea and golf. She takes Paul Rouse on a tour of the region’s hidden treasures

With its superb weather, unique coastline, and rich and varied landscape from the Atlantic Ocean to the mountains, the Algarve makes the most of its natural assets. The region’s man-made attractions are equally impressive, however, including superb hotels and spas, some of the most famous golf courses in the world, modern marinas and a host of leisure facilities. Whether you’re an adrenaline junkie or a culture vulture, there’s plenty to please.

Day one

09:00
Don’t dismiss Faro as having nothing more than an airport: you can discover its old town, marina, medieval walls, castle, cathedral, cobbled streets and museums on a walking tour or a tram ride. Or to appreciate the natural beauty of the woodland, salt marshes and freshwater lagoons of the nearby Ria Formosa National Park, join Algarverde (, www.algarverde.com) on a guided walk along the São Lourenço or Quinta do Lago nature trails. Look out for the amazing flamingos!

11:45
The scented candles alone will entice you into Dunas (3-5 Quinta Shopping, ) – a lifestyle boutique that’s perfect for gifts, resort wear and an eclectic selection of accessories that’ll help you stand out from the crowd on the beach.

12:30
For a light lunch, the canteen-style Tako (Marina de Vilamoura, ) serves delicious Japanese food. Sushi and sashimi aficionados will love it, while the set menus make things simple for novices.

14:00
Cast off from Vilamoura Marina with Champagne Cruises (, www.champagnecruises.net) and be spoiled for the afternoon by skipper Roy and his crew. They’ll welcome you on board with a glass of bubbly before taking you on a spectacular tour of the Algarve coastline.

17:00
Back on dry land, enjoy a cold Sagres beer or glass of Portuguese wine at Sete Café (Marina de Vilamoura, ). There are plenty of bars on the marina, but this one’s owned by football legend Luis Figo – hence the multitude of TV screens tuned to the sports channels. It’ll make a great place to watch the World Cup matches in June – I just hope that Germany don’t play Portugal, as my loyalties will be divided!

18:00
Take a golf lesson from Antonio Sobrinho, the pro at Vale do Lobo (, www.valedolobo.com), who’s also a Portugal PGA Tour player. You’ll be sure to notice an immediate improvement in your game. Non-golfers, meanwhile, can treat themselves to a spot of pampering at Vale do Lobo’s Royal Spa ().

19:30
You’ll have worked up a thirst, so drop into Paixa (52 Quadradinhos, Vale do Lobo, ). Sip a glass of wine from the well-stocked cellar and munch some tasty Portuguese tapas in the minimalist interior of the cocktail bar, or head out into the garden if the weather’s warm.

20:30
Join the international clientele at Bistro des Z’Artes (69 Rua Calvario, Almancil, , www.bistroalgarve.com, closed Tuesdays). An inventive use of fresh, local produce has been key to Irish chef Jonnie’s success, combined with his great-value tasting menus. Try the parfait of chicken liver with muscatel jelly, or the braised black pig cheeks with acorn purée.

23:00
Round off the night with a flutter at Casino Vilamoura (Avenida Tivoli, Vilamoura, , www.solverde.pt) and strut your stuff at Blackjacks, the in-house nightclub.

Day two

08:30
Time to shake off the hangover! Head to one of the Algarve’s myriad beaches for a morning stroll, and then choose one of the scores of great coffee shops or pastelarias you’ll find in every town to sample the staple of many a Portuguese breakfast – pasteis de nata (custard tarts, ideally sprinkled with cinnamon). Don’t forget a shot of strong black coffee: ask for a bica or a bica dupla (double) depending on your caffeine requirement.

10:00
For venturing a little further afield, try Porches Pottery (EN 125, Porches, ), which produces subtle designs in its traditional craft workshop. Browse the showroom and grab a mid-morning snack in the café.

12:00
Splash out on lunch in the sunshine at Vila Joya (Galé, , www.vilajoya.com), Portugal’s only two-starred Michelin restaurant (and a delightful boutique hotel). It boasts a stunning cliff-top location, immaculate service, the best wines and sublime food from Austrian maestro Dieter Koschina. What’s more, you’ll pay nowhere near as much as you would for a comparable fine dining experience in most major European cities.

15:00
You’ll be pleasantly sated but not incapable of moving, so for a digestif wander down the steps to Vila Joya’s summer-long Xiringuito Beach Bar, with a design somewhere between a desert island shack and a funky outdoor club. Alternatively, ask for a tour of the hotel’s wine cellar – one of the few cellars I know of with an ocean view.

17:00
Boho-chic style meets a glossy interiors magazine at Côrte-Real Gallery (Paderne, , www.corterealarte.com, open between Thursday and Sunday), which offers an eclectic range of paintings, ceramics, glassware, lighting and gifts at sensible prices. There’s no café, but you’ll be offered a complimentary glass of wine, soft drink, tea or coffee by the friendly owners, who are happy to let you browse or can point you in the right direction to find the ideal present to take home.

18:30
For a sundowner, head to O Farol (Vale Rabelho, Galé, ). This trendy venue, converted from a lighthouse folly, offers panoramic vistas and includes a downstairs bar and lounge, mid-level restaurant and a top-floor Moorish-themed nightclub. You might even find yourself back here later for a nightcap.

20:00
If you passed on my lunchtime recommendation, you can get your fix of Michelin-star magic at The Ocean (Vila Vita Parc, Porches, , www.vilavitaparc.com), where chef Hans Neuner gives an Austrian twist to the best Portuguese produce. Try the Alentejo rabbit with pata negra, artichokes and mushrooms, or the Monchique lamb with apricot, tomato confit, beans and polenta. Stunning sea views are thrown in for good measure. Or for a lighter bite on the beach, the hotel also operates Arte Náutica (Praia de Armação de Pêra, ), which serves wonderful fresh fish and seafood.

23:30
Take a stroll through the back streets of Albufeira, find a quiet locals’ bar, and practise your Portuguese. Away from the over-commercialised tourist areas, this town retains traces of its origins as a once-picturesque fishing village. The Algarve isn’t all caipirinhas and karaoke.

01:00
Casa do Cerro (Cerro da Piedade, Albufeira, ) is where the beautiful people hang out in the early hours. With its hilltop setting, heaving bar, throbbing music, outside terraces and Arabic ambience, you could almost be in Marrakech.

FR Faro : mon circuit

Lorsque Ricarda Knuth quitta Berlin pour lancer Algarverde, une agence de voyages spécialisée en circuits pédestres, elle prit conscience que les rivages du sud du Portugal offraient bien plus que la mer, le soleil et le golf. Elle emmène Paul Rouse dans un de ses parcours à la découverte des trésors cachés de la région

Jour 1
09:00 Explorez la vieille ville de Faro, ou rejoignez Algarverde (tél. 1, www.algarverde.com) pour une randonnée dans le Parc National de Ria Formosa. 12:30 Pour un lunch léger, Tako (Marina de Vilamoura, tél. 5) sert une délicieuse cuisine japonaise. 14:00 Larguez les amarres, embarquez de la MarinaVilamoura pour un tour avec les Croisières Champagne (tél. 5, champagnecruises.net). 17:00 Dégustez une bière Sagres ou un verre de vin au Sete Café (Marina de Vilamoura, tél. 3), dont le propriétaire est la légende du football Luis Figo. 18:00 Prenez une leçon de golf avec le pro Antonio Sobrinho au club Vale do Lobo (tél. 5, valedolobo.com). 19:30 Faites un saut chez Paixa (52 Quadradinhos, Vale do Lobo, tél. 5) où vous pourrez prendre un verre dans les jardins. 20:30 Optez pour une cuisine locale inventive au Bistro des Z’Artes (69 Rua Calvario, Almancil, tél. 6, bistro algarve. com, fermé les mardis.) 23:00 Le soir, tentez votre chance au Casino Vilamoura (Avenida Tivoli, Vilamoura, teé. 0, solverde.pt).

Jour 2
08:30 Flânez sur l’une des plages de l’Algarve, ensuite poussez la porte d’une pastelaria. Au programme : un petit-déjeuner portugais comprenant des pasteis de nata (petits flans à la crème). 10:00 À Porches, les poteries (EN 125, Porches, ) sont toujours produites dans des ateliers traditionnels. 12:00 Payez-vous un super lunch à la Vila Joya, un restaurant deux étoiles au Michelin (Galé, tél. 5, vilajoya.com). 15:00 Dirigez-vous vers le Xiringuito, le bar de la plage de la Vila Joya pour un digestif. 17:00 La galerie Côrte-Real (Paderne, tél. 2, corterealarte.com, ouverte du jeudi au dimanche) vend des peintures et des objets cadeaux à des prix appréciables. 18:30 Savourez un cocktail avec une vue imprenable au bar O Farol (Vale Rabelho, Galé, tél. 9). 20:00 Dînez à l’Océan, étoilé au Michelin (Vila Vita Parc, Porches, tél. 0, vilavitaparc.com), ou mangez un bout plus léger à l’Arte Náutica, du côté de la plage (Praia de Armação de Pêra, ). 23:30 Promenez-vous dans les petites rues d’Albufeira et dénichez un bar tranquille pour pratiquer votre portugais avec les locaux. 01:00 Casa do Cerro (Cerro da Piedade, Albufeira, tél. 3) est l’endroit où les people branchés sortent jusqu’aux petites heures.

NL Mijn Faro

Toen Ricarda Knuth Berlijn verliet om Algarverde op te richten, een bedrijf dat wandeltochten organiseert, ontdekte ze dat de zuidkust van Portugal veel meer te bieden heeft dan zon, zee en golf. Ze leidt Paul Rouse mee langsheen de verborgen schatten van de streek.

Dag één
09:00 Ga op ontdekking in het oude Faro of ga met Algarverde (, algarverde.com) wandelen in het Ria Formosa National Park. 12:30 Tako (Marina de Vilamoura, ) serveert heerlijke Japanse kost, ideaal voor een lichte lunch. 14:00 Gooi de trossen los vanuit Vilamoura Marina voor een rondvaart met Champagne Cruises (, champagnecruises.net). 17:00 Geniet van een glas Sagres-biertje of een goed glas wijn in het Sete Café (Marina de Vilamoura, ) van eigenaar en voetballegende Luis Figo. 18:00 Volg een golfles van professionele golfspeler Antonio Sobrinho in Vale do Lobo (, valedolobo.com). 19:30 Trek naar Paixa (52 Quadradinhos, Vale do Lobo, ) voor een verfrissend drankje in de tuin. 20:30 Een heerlijk diner uit de lokale keuken in Bistro des Z’Artes (69 Rua Calvario, Almancil, , bistro algarve.com, gesloten op dinsdag). 23:00 Sluit de avond in schoonheid af met een gokje in Casino Vilamoura (Avenida Tivoli, Vilamoura, , solverde.pt).

Dag twee
08:30 Maak een ochtendwandeling op een van de stranden van de Algarve en trek naar een pastelaria voor een Portugees ontbijt met pasteis de nata (vlaai). 10:00 Porches Pottery (EN 125, Porches, ) maakt ontwerpen in een traditionele werkplaats. 12:00 Lunch in stijl in Vila Joya (Galé, , vilajoya.com), dat met twee Michelin-sterren bekroond is. 15:00 Slenter op je gemak naar Vila Joya’s Xiringuito strandbar voor een digestiefje. 17:00 Côrte-Real Gallery (Paderne, , corterealarte.com, open op donderdag-zondag) verkoopt schilderijen en geschenken aan voordelige prijzen. 18:30 Geniet van een lekker glaasje met een prachtig uitzicht bij O Farol (Vale Rabelho, Galé, ). 20:00 Dineer in The Ocean (Vila Vita Parc, Porches, , vilavitaparc.com), een restaurant met een Michelin-ster, of ga voor een lichtere hap aan het strand in Arte Náutica (Praia de Armação de Pêra, ). 23:30 Maak nog een laatste wandeling door de steegjes van Albufeira, stap er een rustige plaatselijke bar binnen en oefen je Portugees met de locals. 01:00 Casa do Cerro (Cerro da Piedade, Albufeira, ) is de favoriete plek van het knappe volkje dat tot in de vroege uurtjes blijft feesten.

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