Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Peak season

Image Clive Morris

With its spectacular mountains, fjords, lakes and jagged coastlines, western Norway offers everything for the hardy hiker. Clive Morris dons his stoutest boots

Never been to Norway? A scene from The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams, in which protagonist Arthur Dent encounters a wizened old sage on a dusty planet, provides a succinct overview:

“Are you trying to tell me,” said Arthur, slowly and with control, “that you originally… made the Earth?”

“Oh yes,” said Slartibartfast. “Did you ever go to… I think it was called Norway?”

“No,” said Arthur. “Pity,” said Slartibartfast, “that was one of mine. Won an award you know. Lovely crinkly edges. I was most upset to hear of its destruction!”

But while the Earth’s untimely demise by intergalactic bureaucratic mishap as foretold in Adams’ zany sci-fi is a long way off, global warming may well be catching up with Slartibartfast’s Norway handiwork. On the final stretch of my hike to the Bødal Glacier, for example, we had to gingerly pick our way across 100m of broken boulders, caused by the glacier’s gradual retreat. For now, however, Nordfjord in western Norway boasts stunning glaciers, mountains, fjords and “crinkly edges” – and the next few months (May, June and July) are the ‘peak’ times to enjoy them.

Frozen assets

Rewind to the halfway point of my Bødal hike, however, about 16km from the small town of Loen, and I’m beginning to wish that Slartibartfast had taken the morning off. My frenzied hacking with the ice pick would give Trotsky’s assassin a run for his money, and the air’s beginning to turn as blue as the ice. White ice is good, we are told, while blue ice is bad: the pick will not get a grip on the mush. I kick a toe hole in a 3m-high ice wall using the spikes on my crampons (metal plates attached to my boots), then strike out with the pick to yank myself up. Hopefully I won’t plunge down a crevice if I happen to slip, as there are seven of us linked by a rope, led by our guide, Robin. From afar, this chain probably resembles Death leading his followers up the mountainside in the closing shot of The Seventh Seal.

As we pause to catch our breath, Robin explains that in Victorian times, the hike leader would hold a Christmas tree out in front of him, so that the outstretched branches would prevent a swift descent down a crevice. This leader was usually some mad Englishman: 1,000 years after Vikings settled on the west coast of England, English artists and poets reciprocated by exploring the west of Norway, motivated by a newfound belief in the divinity of nature.

But despite the glorious scenery enjoyed at Bødal, I have to admit that at the end of the day, the only ice I want to see is the stuff that floats in vodka. That said, however, the steepest hike I encounter on this trip involves prices: it’s not cheap in Norway, with a pint of Hansa beer costing about €9,50/NOK 80. The country has an unusual attitude to alcohol, too, being one of the few to vote for prohibition in a 1919 referendum, and even today sales are strictly controlled thanks to the state monopoly system. “The luxuries subsidise the necessities,” one local tells me. Norwegians also dislike being told what to do, as befits their Viking ancestry. Own up to being from Brussels and prepare yourself for a tirade against EU legislation.

High and mighty

The next morning I tackle the mountain of Skala, which, at 1,848m, offers superb panoramic views. From Sande campsite, the first hour takes us through a forest (or Norwegian wood, if you’re a Beatles’ fan). As I reach the halfway point of 900m, I appreciate how solitary clouds cause shadows to pass across the valley. Looking down on the strikingly blue fjord, I watch as a shipping trawler leaves a silvery trail in its wake… 1,000 years ago, it would have been a Viking longship.

Assisted by my two hiking sticks, I continue with Jens, our guide, as far as a small lake called Skålevatn at 1,142m. The higher you climb, the more spectacular the views, but it’s vital to know your limits, as reaching the summit isn’t for the faint of heart. If you do make it to the top, the Skålatånet DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association) hut, built in 1891 and housing 20 hardy walkers, gives you the option of spending the night.

On our descent, sheep gaze at us, and Jens eyes them appreciatively. “A good dish this time of year is slow-braised lamb with rosemary and garlic,” he says. “A mature claret from a decent château would be the perfect match.”

All at sea

I’ve done the glacier, seen the fjord and (almost) scaled the mountain; now for the crinkly coastline. This means a morning drive along Nordfjord to Selje, in order to tackle the first leg of the pilgrims’ walk. Here, the small island of Selja is a landmark for Christians, being where St Sunniva, Norway’s only female saint, was martyred in the ninth century.

Borrowing a bike from Selje Hotel, I head 10 minutes down the road to a cluster of wooden-slatted houses and a signpost marked ‘Geitahornet’. A slim post with a tiny single cross marks the start of the trail. The path threatens to disappear at times, and at one point unhelpfully turns into a spring, but I stumble onwards and upwards. Sheep observe me curiously, occasionally running in a huddle, their little bells tinkling. Low-lying heather scuffs my naked calves and shins, and midges emerge at sunset to congregate around my perspiring brow. But it’s worth it. Gazing out over the sea as the sun begins to sink, I give thanks to Slartibartfast for his sterling work on the Norwegian coast. Like any intergalactic traveller, I’m left feeling out of this world.

Rest easy

Where to stay on a Nordfjord hike

Loen
If an evening’s outdoor swim against a mountain backdrop appeals, Hotel Alexandra ( , www.alexandra.no, rates from €117/NOK 950, pictured) is a family-run establishment with a modern pool and spa. The evening buffet is a mountain to climb, but you won’t put up much resistance. Nearby, Hotel Loenfjord ( , www.loenfjord.no, rates from €95/NOK 770) is run by the same family, and you can use the Alexandra’s pool and spa facilities during a stay here if you pay for a pass. Sande campsite ( , www.sande-camping.no, rates from €14/NOK 110), meanwhile, is a cheaper option. A guide for a trip on Bødal Glacier costs €56/NOK 450.

Selje
With sand, sea, mountains and a 1,000-year-old stone monastery on an island, this coastal village’s main place to stay is Selje Hotel ( , www.seljehotel.no, rates from €80/NOK 650). After a days’s hiking on the pilgrim’s trail, you can take a dip in the sea or, with a three-day stay, take advantage of a Selje Spa Thalasso treatment – be it physiotherapy, aroma massage or a body massage using seawater, mud, algae or sand.

For tourist information, go to www.visitnorway.com

FR Haute saison

Avec ses montagnes spectaculaires, ses lacs, ses fjords et ses côtes, l’Ouest de la Norvège, appelée aussi le Nordfjord, est un vrai paradis pour les randonneurs chevronnés. C’est au cours des prochains mois que cette région sera la plus agréable à découvrir. Clive Morris enfile ses bonnes bottines et part en éclaireur.

À mi-chemin sur la route qui mène au glacier Bødal de Nordfjord, l’air devient aussi bleu que la glace. Nous avons appris toutefois que la glace blanche est de meilleure qualité que la bleue, dans laquelle nos piolets n’arriveront pas à s’accrocher. Je creuse des trous à la surface de la glace avec mes crampons et je me hisse à l’aide de mes broches. Heureusement, il n’y a aucun risque que je tombe dans une crevasse – nous sommes sept à être attachés par une corde. Et malgré la vue magnifique et la gratification que procure un tel effort, la seule glace dont je rêve à la fin de la journée est celle qui flotte dans mon verre de vodka.

Le jour suivant, je m’attaque à Skala, qui à 1,848m d’altitude offre de superbes panoramas. Après une heure de déambulation dans la forêt, la récompense est en vue : à 900m, je découvre le fjord d’un bleu intense. Je poursuis ma progression jusqu’au lac Skålevatn à 1,142m. Au fur et à mesure que vous montez, vous embrassez des vues toujours plus époustouflantes, mais il est vital de connaître vos limites. L’année derrière un Norvégien de 65 ans a succombé dans l’ascension du sommet.

Je termine par un parcours de la côte escarpée du Nordfjord. La première étape est le pèlerinage de Selje (lieu du martyre de Ste Sunniva). Le sentier disparaît çà et là et à un moment il oblique vers une source, mais je tiens bon même en trébuchant. Des bruyères effleurent mes mollets, et des moucherons tournoient autour de mon front en transpiration. Peu importe… cette longue marche m’apporte une totale plénitude. En admirant au loin le soleil en train de s’enfoncer dans l’immensité de la mer, j’ai l’impression de me trouver loin, très loin, hors du monde.

Où séjourner ?

Hôtel Alexandra (tél. , www.alexandra.no, tarifs à partir de 117 €/ 950 NOK); Campement de Sande (tél. , www.sande-camping.no, tarifs à partir de 14 €/ 110 NOK) Hôtel Selje (tél. , www.seljehotel.no, tarifs à partir de 80 €/ 650 NOK)

NL Bergachtig, schilderachtig, prachtig!

Het westen van Noorwegen – of Nordfjord – heeft alles waar doorgewinterde trekkers van houden: spectaculaire bergen, meren, fjorden en kusten. De komende maanden zijn de ideale periode om er heen te trekken, dus trok Clive Morris zijn wandelschoenen aan.

Halverwege Nordfjord’s Bødal gletsjer wordt de lucht even blauw als het ijs. Wit ijs is goed, naar verluidt, en blauw ijs is slecht: onze ijspikhouwelen krijgen geen grip op de koude brij. Ik trap mijn voet met mijn klimijzers stevig vast in een ijswand en haal uit met mijn pikhouweel om mezelf omhoog te hijsen. Hopelijk val ik niet in een spleet – we hangen met zeven mensen aan hetzelfde touw. Ondanks de schilderachtige omgeving en de voldoening die het me schenkt, wil ik aan het einde van de dag enkel nog ijs zien als het in een glas wodka drijft.

De volgende ochtend waag ik me vol goede moed aan Skala, een berg van 1848 meter hoog die schitterende vergezichten te bieden heeft. In het eerste uur trekken we door een bos en op 900 meter hoogte word ik beloond met een uitzicht op een opvallend blauwe fjord. We klimmen verder tot aan het Skålevatn-meer, zo’n 1142 meter hoog. Hoe hoger je klimt, hoe mooier het uitzicht. Maar het is enorm belangrijk dat je je eigen grenzen kent: vorig jaar bereikte een 65-jarige Noor de top – en stierf er ter plekke.

Tot slot bezoek ik ook de grillige kust van Nordfjord; tijdens de eerste etappe van de bedevaartswandeling (hier werd St.-Sunniva martelaar) vanuit Selje. Het wandelpad lijkt soms te verdwijnen en verandert op een bepaald punt in een bron, maar ik strompel verder. Heidekruid schuurt langs mijn kuiten en hele zwermen muggen belegeren mijn bezweet voorhoofd. Maar het loont de moeite. Wanneer ik uitkijk over een zee waarin de zon langzaamaan verdwijnt, word ik overvallen door een onbeschrijfelijk gevoel.

Overnachten

Hotel Alexandra (tel. , alexandra.no, kamers vanaf € 117/NOK 950);

Camping Sande (tel. , sande-camping.no, kampeerplaats vanaf € 14/NOK 110)

Selje Hotel (tel. , seljehotel.no, kamers vanaf € 80/NOK 650)

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