Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

My Krakow

Images photolibrary.com, Corbis

May in Krakow is a glorious time, when the stunning architecture is matched by burgeoning natural beauty. Michelle Smith asked Adam Chrzastowski – chef and co-owner of Ancora Restaurant – to share some of the city’s less obvious charms

With its shady parks, rambling gardens, outdoor cafés and restaurant terraces, Krakow offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the spring air. If time is short, the must-see areas are the bustling Old Town (Rynek) and Kazimierz; with very different characters, they offer snapshots of this modern city that keeps one foot firmly planted in its past.

Day one

09:00
Begin your morning at the charming Café Camelot (17 Ulica Sw Tomasza, tel. , opens at 9am). I like to get things moving with one of their energising fresh fruit cocktails.

10:30
Visit the oft-overlooked Bishop Erazm Ciołek Museum (17 Ulica Kanonicza, closed on Monday) to see the highlight of its collection: an almost life-sized, 16th-century wooden sculpture, Christ Riding a Donkey, which is rather eerie.

11:30
Art nouveau-lovers must head to the Wyspianski Museum (11 Ulica Szczepanska, closed on Monday and Tuesday) to see the breathtaking designs for the artist’s most famous stained glass window, God the Father, in the Act of Creation, before heading to St Francis’ Basilica (5 Plac Wszystkich Swietych) to see the real thing, A brilliantly sunny day will reveal its true beauty.

13:30
Chimera (3 Ulica Sw Anny, tel. , www.chimera.com.pl) is renowned as Krakow’s first ‘proper’ salad bar, but I suggest bypassing that and opting instead for its lesser-known and romantically elegant cellar restaurant, which serves fresh and well-prepared traditional Polish cuisine. The roast duck in cherry sauce is perfection.

15:00
Walk off those calories at Collegium Maius (15 Ulica Jagiellonska, closed on Sunday). This is the oldest part of the Jagiellonian University and is often neglected by tourists, despite boasting such exhibits as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. It was here that, in 1492, astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus began his studies, and a section of the Collegium is dedicated to him.

17:30
The city’s best buys are to be had in the Sukiennice (cloth hall), in the centre of the Rynek. Ideal souvenirs include amber, wood carvings and hand-painted eggs, while fellow foodies should investigate Krakowski Kredens (7 Ulica Grodzka, tel. , www.krakowskikredens.pl): a store that sells Polish delicacies such as honey, jam, liqueurs and smoked meat.

19:30
Come over to Ancora Restaurant (3 Ulica Dominikanska, tel. , www.ancora-restaurant.com) to enjoy Michelin-recommended cuisine. Try the venison tenderloin with juniper-berry sauce, followed by the sweet chocolate soufflé with blue cheese, grapes and chilli chutney. The 2008 Michelin guide made special mention of Ancora’s wine list; I recommend either the côte de beaune bourgogne or the Tishbi Estate pinot noir to accompany your meal.

22:30
Just a stone’s throw from the restaurant is Prozak (6 Plac Dominikanski). With world-class DJs, four bars, four dance floors and a maze of labyrinthine rooms spread over two levels, it’s a sure bet for a great night out.

Day two

10:00
It’s often a challenge to find a satisfying breakfast in Kazimierz, but Moment Resto Bar & Music (26 Ulica Józefa, opens at 8am) does it right. Its breakfast sets range from vegetarian (with sunflower seeds and chive-flecked cottage cheese) to French (apple French toast drizzled with honey), while there are also omelettes bursting with roquefort cheese and hot smoked salmon ciabattas. Bonus points are awarded for the bottomless cups of coffee.

11:30
I think that Temple Synagogue (24 Ulica Miodowa, closed on Saturday) is the most important place to see Jewish culture in Krakow, largely because the Jewish Community Centre (www.jcckrakow.org) is part of the synagogue. After visiting the recently restored place of worship, drop into the centre for everything from Hebrew classes and Israeli dance lessons for children to Yiddish song workshops. The website posts a calendar of weekly events, so you could plan your visit around something of special interest.

13:30
If the weather is fine, climb aboard Mauretania Bistro (Bulwar Kurlandzki, reached via Ulica Podgórska, tel. , www.mauretania.biz), a restaurant located on a boat. The menu offers trout and shrimp, but also has huge salads, pasta and veal in gorgonzola sauce. If you’d prefer to stay on terra firma yet still crave an adventure, try Avocado Resto Bar (1 Ulica Bozego Ciało, tel. ), where the fruit is imaginatively used in soups, sides and sorbets. If you’re not an avocado aficionado, there are plenty of other dishes on offer.

15:30
The unique Galerie d’Art Naïf (11 Ulica Józefa) exhibits and sells the work of Poland’s most celebrated naïf painters, sculptors and folk artists, making it an ideal place to hunt out unusual gifts.

16:30
With 135 of award-winning photojournalist Chris Schwarz’s photos on permanent display, the Galicia Jewish Museum (18 Ulica Dajwór, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org) is a must-see. The images of post-WWII Jewish Krakow are both harrowing and moving.

18:30
Kazimierz is famous for its Jewish cuisine, and at Ariel (18 Ulica Szeroka, tel. , www.ariel.ceti.pl), the dumplings and mascarpone with raisins and grated orange are simply delectable.

21:00
In Kazimierz, the partying starts early and goes on all night. In general, the area is lacking in courtyard drinking, but exceptions are Stajnia (12 Ulica Józefa) and Starka (14 Ulica Józefa). Both serve beer on tap, as well as questionable wine and cocktail bombs in frosted glasses.

23:00
After a few drinks, start the dancing at Taawa (18 Ulica Estery), one of the most notable places on Krakow’s clubbing circuit. If you want to dance under the stars, meanwhile, wander over to Music Bar 9 (9 Ulica Szewska), one of the few clubs with an outdoor courtyard.

03:00
Right next door is the brand-new Goraczka (7 Ulica Szewska). When Music Bar 9 closes at 3am, don’t worry – this place parties on until 5am.

FR Mon circuit de Cracovie

Le mois de mai à Cracovie est rayonnant, lorsque les magnifiques bâtiments historiques émergent au milieu de la nature bourgeonnante. Michelle Smith a demandé à Adam Chrzastowski – chef et co-propriétaire du restaurant Ancora – de partager avec nous les charmes inexplorés de sa ville

Jour 1
09:00 Démarrez par un cocktail de fruits au Café Camelot (17 Ulica Sw Tomasza, tél. , ouvert dès 9 h). 11:30 Les amoureux d’Art nouveau doivent visiter le Musée Wyspianski (11 Ulica Szczepanska) avant d’aller admirer ses vitraux à la Basilique St. Francis (5 Plac Wszystkich Swietych). 13:30 Chimera (3 Ulica Sw Anny, tél. , chimera. com.pl) est un élégant restaurant–cave à vins qui sert une cuisine polonaise traditionnelle. 15:00 Dépensez vos calories en marchant jusqu’au Collège Maius (15 Ulica Jagiellonska, fermé le dimanche), où Copernic a commencé ses études. 17:30 Allez jusqu’à Sukiennice (halle aux textiles) dans la Rynek (Vieille Ville) pour acheter des souvenirs : de l’ambre ou des oeufs de bois peints. 19:30 Dînez au restaurant Ancora (3 Ulica Dominikanska, tél. , ancora-restaurant.com), une table recommandée par le Michelin. 22:30 À quelques minutes de là se trouve Prozak (6 Plac Dominikanski) – une valeur sûre pour passer une super soirée.

Jour 2
10:00 Entrez dans le Resto Bar & Music Kazimierz’s Moment (26 Ulica Józefa, ouvert dès 8 h) pour savourer un délicieux petit-déjeuner. 11:30 Visitez le Temple de la Synagogue, un bâtiment récent (24 Ulica Miodowa, fermé le samedi), ensuite faites un saut au Centre de la Communauté juive (jcckrakow.org). 13:30 Montez à bord du restaurant-bateau le Bistro Mauretania (Bulwar Kurlandzki, accessible via Ulica Podgórska, tél. , mauretania.biz) pour déguster une truite fraîche et des crevettes. 15:30 La Galerie d’Art Naïf (11 Ulica Józefa) expose les travaux de peintres, de sculpteurs et d’artistes naïfs polonais. 16:30 Le Musée Juif Galicia (18 Ulica Dajwór, galiciajewishmuseum. org) est un endroit incontournable, avec ses images de la Cracovie juive après la seconde guerre mondiale. 18:30 Kazimierz est réputé pour sa cuisine juive – essayez Ariel (18 Ulica Szeroka, tél. , ariel.ceti.pl) pour de délicieux beignets fourrés. 21:00 Pour un verre en terrasse, dans une cour, choisissez Stajnia (12 Ulica Józefa) ou Starka (14 Ulica Józefa). 23:00 Dans le Music Bar 9 (9 Ulica Szewska) vous pourrez danser sous les étoiles, tandis que les soirées chez Goraczka (7 Ulica Szewska) durent jusqu’à 5 h du matin.

NL Mijn Krakau

Krakau is prachtig in mei. De verbluffende architectuur vormt een mooie smeltkroes met de natuurlijke schoonheid van de stad. Michelle Smith vroeg aan Adam Chrzastowski – chef-kok en mede-eigenaar van Ancora Restaurant– of hij ons enkele van de minder bekende charmes van de stad wil verklappen

Dag één
09:00 Start met een vruchtencocktail in Café Camelot (17 Ulica Sw Tomasza, tel. , open vanaf 9 uur). 11:30 Liefhebbers van art nouveau moeten zeker halt houden in het Wyspianski Museum (11 Ulica Szczepanska) en nadien naar Wyspianski’s gebrandschilderd raam in de St. Francis Basilica (5 Plac Wszystkich Swietych). 13:30 Chimera (3 Ulica Sw Anny, tel. , chimera. com.pl) is een stijlvol kelderrestaurant dat traditionele Poolse gerechten serveert. 15:00 Wandel de calorieën eraf in Collegium Maius (15 Ulica Jagiellonska, gesloten op zondag), waar Copernicus aan zijn studies begon. 17:30 Bezoek de Sukiennice (de Lakenhal) in de Rynek (Oude Stad) voor amber, hout en handgeschilderde eiersouvenirs. 19:30 Kom Bourgondisch genieten in Ancora Restaurant (3 Ulica Dominikanska, tel. , ancora-restaurant.com), dat met Michelin-sterren is bekroond. 22:30 Op een boogscheut van Ancora ligt Prozak (6 Plac Dominikanski) – een prima garantie voor een geweldig avondje uit.

Dag twee
10:00 Trek naar Kazimierz’s Moment Resto Bar & Music (26 Ulica Józefa, open vanaf 8 uur) voor een heerlijk ontbijt. 11:30 Bezoek de recent Tempel Synagoge (24 Ulica Miodowa, gesloten op zaterdag) en proef van de sfeer in het Joodse Gemeenschapscentrum (jcckrakow.org). 13:30 Stap aan boord van het bootrestaurant Mauretania Bistro (Bulwar Kurlandzki, bereikbaar via Ulica Podgórska, tel. , mauretania.biz) voor verse forel en garnalen. 15:30 De Galerie d’Art Naïf (11 Ulica Józefa) stelt werken tentoon van Poolse naïf schilders, beeldhouwers en kunstenaars. 16:30 Het Galicia Jewish Museum (18 Ulica Dajwór, galiciajewishmuseum.org) is niet te missen. Je vindt er o.m. foto’s van Joods Krakau na WOII. 18:30 Kazimierz is gekend voor zijn smakelijke Joodse keuken – probeer de knoedels bij Ariel (18 Ulica Szeroka, tel. , ariel.ceti.pl), ze zijn om van te watertanden! 21:00 Zin in een digestiefje op een binnenhof? Trek naar Stajnia (12 Ulica Józefa) of Starka (14 Ulica Józefa). 23:00 In Music Bar 9 (9 Ulica Szewska) kan je dansen onder de sterrenhemel en in Goraczka (7 Ulica Szewska) kan je fuiven tot 5 uur ’s ochtends.

Leave a Reply