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Founder of Foje, one of Lithuania’s most successful bands, Andrius Mamontova still loves his home town. The singer, actor and producer tells Robin McKelvie why summer is a great time to visit this increasingly cosmopolitan capital
Vilnius is a quirky, charming and enchanting city where touches of magic await around every corner. You may be surprised to suddenly find yourself on an Italian-style corner, or feel the spirit of Montmartre in the bohemian Užupis district. The city is also a baroque wonderland, with one of Europe’s most breathtaking Old Towns, often referred to as ‘Little Rome’. The friendly people, the quiet flow of the river, the greenness of the forests breaking through to the city and the toll of the bells from the numerous churches all combine to create the special place where I was born and still choose to live today.
09:30 Start your morning at the cosy Coffee Inn (3 Pilies gatve, tel. ), popular with a local crowd, where a warm atmosphere is created with vintage furniture and friendly service. Afterwards, the best way to start exploring the city is to enjoy the panoramic views from the Gediminas Castle Tower (5 Arsenalo gatve, tel. , lnm.lt). You can hike up the steep hill from the Cathedral Square (Katedros aikšte), or be lazy and take the funicular on Arsenalo gatve.
11:30 With meandering streets and hidden courtyards, the real magic of Vilnius’ Old Town is that this historic centre is still the living, beating heart of a vibrant city – alive with commerce and community, bustling with action and always welcoming – so just lose yourself for a while. A highlight is Vilnius University (3 Universiteto gatve), one of the oldest universities in Eastern Europe (established in 1579), which charms with its courtyards, library and remarkable frescos from various periods. And don’t forget to explore the amazing interior of bookshop Akademine Knyga (4 Universiteto gatve, tel. ), which also stocks a variety of books on history and culture in English.
13:30 Moments from the university, stop for lunch at Italian restaurant D’Antonio (1 L.Stuokos-Guceviciaus gatve, tel. ) within the Amberton Hotel, with excellent food and a fantastic view of the Cathedral.
15:00 In the middle of the Old Town, head to the Contemporary Art Centre (2 Vokieciu gatve, tel. , cac.lt/en). The focus here is on developing a broad range of international and Lithuanian exhibition projects, and the wide array of public programmes on offer includes lectures, seminars, performances, film and video screenings and live-music events.
17:00 The city’s best boutique shopping is on Stiklieu gatve, tucked close to the Town Hall in the historic Jewish Ghetto. You can find exclusive designer clothing at Julija Fashion House (7 Stikliu gatve, tel. , jzileniene.lt), and linen crafts and originalsouvenirs at Mažasis Lino Muziejus (3 Stikliu gatve, tel. ).
18:30 Stop for a drink at the bar of the Radisson Blu Astorija Hotel (35/2 Didzioji, tel. ) and enjoy the spirit of the vibrant Old Town from the terrace.
19:00 Balti Drambliai (41 Vilniaus gatve, tel. ) was the first vegetarian restaurant in Vilnius and is still going strong. I love the relaxing atmosphere and the wide selection of vegetarian dishes and herbal teas.
22:30 Round off your evening with live music at Tamsta club (11A Subaciaus gatve, tel. ), a trendy hub that welcomes a varied crowd of all ages. Look out for musicians from beginners through to famous acts playing from Wednesday to Saturday.
09:30 There’s nothing better after a great night out than freshly baked pastries and cakes with coffee at Gourmet Krautuvele (12 Gedimino prospektas, tel. ) – it’s one of the few places in Vilnius that encompasses treats from France, Italy, Spain and Germany.
11:30 For the best Lithuanian delicacies and ecological products visit the Old Town’s Senamiešcio Krautuve (5 Literatu gatve, tel. ). While you’re in this area, take time to explore the narrow street and walls, which are dedicated to Lithuanian authors. The street name means ‘Author’s Street’, and you can really feel the cultural side of the city here.
12:00 Head further through the labyrinthine cobbled streets and you’ll reach the Amber Museum-Gallery (8 Sv. Mykolo gatve, tel. ), which houses an extensive collection and sells souvenirs and jewellery.
13:00 Just a stone’s throw away you can see some of the city’s most sublime gothic masterpieces at St Anne’s and St Bernadine’s churches (8 Maironio gatve, tel. for guided tours). In St Bernadine’s you can discover the slow rebirth of unique frescos and the peaceful composition of the interior.
14:00 Explore Užupis, Vilnius’ unique ‘republic’ that’s famous for having its own constitution, national anthem, calendar and map. A colourful and vibrant island separated from the rest of the city by the Vilnia River, Užupis is a recognised district for artists and, for me, it’s Vilnius’ most mysterious and romantic area.
14:30 Located at the heart of Užupis, have a late lunch at Užupio Picerija (3 Paupio gatve, tel. ). Try the delicious crêpes with various fillings, or traditional dishes cooked in an antique oven.
16:00 Visit the National Art Gallery (22 Konstitucijos prospektas, tel. ) located in the business centre of Vilnius, which exhibits an extensive collection of Lithuanian artists.
18:00 Enjoy a quick snack in the café of the Vaga bookshop in the Gedimino 9 shopping centre (9 Gedimino prospektas, ) while taking in the panoramic views of Gediminas Castle.
19:00 One of the most unusual places to spend an evening in the city is at a concert in St Catherine’s Church (30 Vilniaus gatve, tel. ). With excellent acoustics, this venue is used for cultural events as well as rehearsals and concerts by the St Christopher Chamber Orchestra, the Young Music Choir and other artistic collectives and performers.
21:30 Have a late dinner at Indian Raja (3 Odminiu gatve, tel. ), famous for its authentic Indian cuisine and located at the heart of Vilnius – a perfect way to end two great days in my ever more cosmopolitan home city
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Le chanteur, acteur et producteur lituanien Andrius Mamontova emmène Robin McKelvie à la découverte de sa ville natale
Jour 1
09:00 Le matin, démarrez au Coffee Inn (3 Pilies gatve, tél. ) avant d’aller apprécier la vue des hauteurs du Château de Gediminas (5 Arsenalo gatve, tél. , lnm.lt). 11:30 Perdez-vous dans la magie de la Vieille Ville. 13:30 Faites une pause lunch au restaurant italien D’Antonio (1 L.Stuokos-Guceviciaus gatve, tél. ). 15:00 Découvrez le Centre d’Art Contemporain (2 Vokieciu gatve, tél. ). 17:00 Faites du shopping sur l’avenue Stikliu gatve à la Fashion House Julija (tél. ), et chez Mažasis Lino Muziejus (tél. ). 18:30 Prenez un verre au Radisson Blu Hotel (35/2 Didzioji, tél. ). 19:00 « J’adore les plats végétariens du Balti Drambliai » (41 Vilniaus gatve, tél. ). 22:30 Allez écouter de la musique live au club Tamsta (11A Subaciaus gatve, tél. ).
Jour 2
09:30 Réveillez-vous avec des viennoiseries et un bon café au Gourmet Krautuvele (12 Gedimino prospektas, tél. ). 11:30 Pour des spécialités lituaniennes, visitez Senamiescio Krautuve (5 Literatu gatve, tél. ). 12:00 Le Musée-Galerie de l’Ambre (8 Sv. Mykolo gatve, tél. ) vend aussi des souvenirs et des bijoux. 13:00 Allez admirer les chefs d’œuvres gothiques des églises St Anne et St Bernadine (8 Maironio gatve, tél. pour réserver des tours). 14:00 Explorez la ‘République’ d’Užupis, la micronation séparée de la ville par la Vilnia. 14:30 Prenez un déjeuner tardif à l’Užupio Picerija (3 Paupio gatve, tél. ). 16:00 La Galerie Nationale (22 Konstitucijos prospektas, tél. ) propose des expositions d’artistes lituaniens. 18:00 Savourez un snack à la librairie Vaga (9 Gedimino prospektas, tél. ). 19:00 Assistez à un concert à l’Église Ste Catherine (30 Vilniaus gatve, tél. ). 21:30 Après le spectacle, dînez au restaurant indien Raja (3 Odminiu gatve, tél. ).
De Litouwse zanger, acteur en producer Andrius Mamontova geeft Robin McKelvie een rondleiding in zijn thuisstad
Dag eeg
09:30 Start de ochtend in het Coffee Inn (3 Pilies gatve, tel. ), en geniet vervolgens van het panorama vanuit het Gediminas kasteel (Arsenalo gatve 5, 5 3, lnm.lt). 11:30 Verdwaal helemaal in de magische Oude Wijk. 13:30 Lunchen doet u bij het Italiaanse restaurant D’Antonio
(L.Stuokos-Guceviciaus gatve 1, tel. ). 15:00 Breng een bezoekje aan het Contemporary Art Centre (Vokieciu gatve 2, tel. ). 17:00 Laat u helemaal gaan in de boetieks van de Stikliu gatve en in het Julija Fashion House (tel. ), en Mažasis Lino Muziejus (tel. ). 18:30 Blaas even uit met een drankje in het Radisson Blu Hotel (Didzioji 35/2, tel. ). 19:00 “Ik ben verzot op de vegetarische gerechten van bij Balti Drambliai” (Vilniaus gatve 41, tel. ) 22:30 Geniet van live muziek in de Tamsta club (Subaciaus gatve 11A, tel. ).
Dag twee
10:00 Ontwaak met gebak en koffie bij Gourmet Krautuvele (Gedimino prospektas 12, tel. ). 11:30 Ontdek tal van Litouwse delicatessen bij Senamiescio Krautuve (Literatu gatve 5, tel. ). 12:00 In de Amber Museum-Gallery (Sv. Mykolo gatve 8, tel. ) vindt u eveneens souvenirs en juwelen. 13:00 Breng een bezoek aan de gotische meesterwerken van de St Anne en St Bernadine kerken (Maironio gatve 8, tel. voor rondleidingen). 14:00 Ontdek Užupis, de ‘republiek’ die van de stad wordt gescheiden door de Vilnia. 14:30 Late lunch bij Užupio Picerija (Paupio gatve 3, tel. ). 16:00 In de National Art Gallery (Konstitucijos prospektas 22, tel. ) ontdekt u werken van Litouwse artiesten. 18:00 Geniet van een snelle snack in de Vaga boekhandel (Gedimino prospektas 9, ). 19:00 Pik een concert mee in de St Catherine kerk (Vilniaus gatve 30, tel. ). 21:30 Sluit af met een laat diner bij Indian Raja (Odminiu gatve 3, tel. ).