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Denmark : Copenhagen - October 2007

Country Code: Dial for Denmark

Seen by many as the modern capital of Scandinavia, Copenhagen’s effortless blend of old and new charms visitors all year round. During autumn, the city’s indoor activities, such as shopping and dining, take precedence. But when the autumn sun is shining, Thor Wilkens finds that Denmark’s first city is as beautiful as ever

Getting around

Copenhagen Airport

Train: The journey from the airport costs €4/DKK 30. Trains stop at all the major urban stations, taking around 13 minutes to reach the city centre. The metro takes 19 minutes to reach the city centre and stops at Nørreport too. Tickets are also €4/DKK 30.
Taxi: A trip into the centre costs around €27/DKK 200 and takes 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found opposite Tivoli Gardens (tel. , visitcopenhagen.com).

Centre

This oldest part of Copenhagen dates back to medieval times.

Sleep soundly – The bar at the new Hotel Twentyseven (27 Løngangsstræde, tel. , hotel27.dk, rooms from €220/DKK 1650) is made of 40 tons of ice shipped from northern Sweden. Luckily the temperature’s a little higher in the trendy hotel rooms.

Culture vultures – Newly renovated Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (7 Dantes Plads) shows art works ranging from French impressionists to one of the biggest Etrurian collections outside of Italy.

Must eat – For 225 years Royal Copenhagen has created beautiful cups, dishes and other porcelain. Now the company has opened The Royal Café (6 Amagertorv, tel. ). Focusing on local design and food, come here for smørrebrod and Danish dessert classics.

Must drink – Nørgaard på Strøget/Mads Nørgaard (13/15 Amagertorv) is a father-and-son enterprise consisting of two shops. The first carries affordable women’s clothing, the second stocks its own brand as well as labels like Paul Smith.

Dance the night away – Close to Amagertorv lies JazzHouse (10 Niels Hemmingsens Gade), which stages 250 jazz concerts every year. At around midnight, DJs start spinning old-skool disco, R&B and soul. Pansexual club K3 (3 Knabrostræde) pulls in a mixed crowd of drag queens, dancers and dwarfs.

Frederiksberg

Frederiksberg district offers you parks, avenues and peace and quiet.

Culture vultures – Frederiksberg Have (Frederiksberg Runddel) is a romantic park. Walk up to Frederiksberg Castle for the best views of the city.

Must eat – For the best sushi in town, stroll along Gammel Kongevej to Sticks and Sushi (120 Gammel Kongevej).

Must drink – Ice-cream bar Grenola (4 Værnedamsvej) is steeped in 50s nostalgia.

Shop til you drop – Kluns (51 Gammel Kongevej) sells relaxed clothing, perfect for low-key dressing.

Vesterbro

The hippest district in town, Vesterbro is where streetwise Copenhageners hang out after work. Stroll down Istedgade and try one bar at the time.

Sleep soundly – The newly refurbished Hotel Astoria (4 Banegaardspladsen, tel. , dgi-byen.dk/Astoria, rooms from €133/DKK 995) is close to the main train station and Tivoli Gardens.

Culture vultures – Funky, revolutionary and street smart, the V1 gallery’s (21B Absalonsgade) unpretentious look pulls in the area’s young artists.

Must eat – There are plenty of restaurants in the area. Try the well-priced Pakistani Shezan (22 Viktoriagade, tel. ), or cross the street to modern Thai Spicylicious (27 Istedgade, tel. ). They’re popular, so call for reservations first.

Must drink – A former pharmacy, Bang & Jensen (130 Istedgade) is a favourite with students and urbanites alike.

Christianshavn

Part of the old city, Christianshavn is full of small alleys and cobblestone streets.

Culture vultures – The free town of Christiania (43 Bådsmandsstræde) began as a social experiment in the 60s. The area is now changing, mostly for political reasons, so you should seize your last chance to see it.

Must eat – (93 Strandgade) recently won its second Michelin star. The chefs travel the Nordic regions to source ingredients such as horse mussels, deep-sea crabs and musk ox. Call for a reservation. If you’re not lucky enough to get in, go to Lagkagehuset (Christianshavns Torv). This bakery serves pastries, good bread and sandwiches in a canal-side setting.

Must drink – (58 Wildersgade) draws a mixed crowd – think sailors, high-school students and bankers. If you’re craving a health kick, try Café Luna’s (5 Sankt Annæ Gade) wonderful smoothies.

Compiled by Thor Wilkens