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Portugal : Faro - October 2007

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

The Algarve’s capital, Faro is often unfairly bypassed in favour of the resorts of Albufeira, Lagos and Vilamoura. As Stuart Gallacher reveals, it’s a bustling centre packed with traditional shops and terrace restaurants, offering a perfect break from beaches and golf

Getting around

Faro International Airport

Bus: Eva Bus connects the airport with the city centre. Services run every 30 minutes from 7.05am to 9.15pm. The journey takes 20 minutes and a return ticket costs €4 while a single ticket costs €1,55.
Train: A single journey from the airport to Faro for up to four passengers costs around €15 and takes 15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 8-11 Rua da Misericordia (tel. , visitportugal.com).

The Centre

Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755, the city has managed to retain a sense of charm amid the whitewashed villa complexes that line the coast. Dominated by its imposing castle walls and colourful marina, the pedestrianised streets are lined with unpretentious, inexpensive cafés and restaurants – perfect for getting into the slower pace of Portuguese life.

Sleep soundly – For rooms with a view and a glorious rooftop restaurant, check into the Hotel Faro (2 Praça D. Francisco Gomes, tel. , hotelfaro.pt, rooms from €98) which overlooks the marina. The Hotel Dom Bernardo (20 Rua General Teófilo da Trindade, tel. , bestwestern. com, rooms from €77) offers good-sized rooms in the heart of the city.

Culture vultures – Faro’s imposing cathedral Sé Catedral (Largo da Sé) houses one of the finest collections of 17th and 18th-century art in the Algarve.

Must drink – Havana Club Bar (Avenida Nascente, Ilha de Faro) serves rum cocktails and local beers. Get here early or it’s standing room only.

Dance the night away – The Upa Upa Café Bar (51 Rua Conselheiro Bivar) attracts a hip university crowd and serves good local beers to boot. Dux (28 Rua do Prior) is a partygoer’s paradise.

Shop til you drop – The more authentic streets of Rua de Santo Antonio and Rua Francisca Gomes are lined with wine, textile and ceramics shops, while Largo do Mercado has a fresh food market every day.

Estoi

Sleepy Estoi, a treasure trove of little streets and squares, is one of Faro’s inland village neighbourhoods and is full of hidden gems popular with locals.

Sleep soundly – Located in the village square, Casa de Estoi (80 Rua de Faro, tel. , casadeestoi.com, rooms from €65) is a beautifully restored manor house with original antique furnishings. It’s also renowned for its local fish dishes.

Culture vultures – The Palacio de Estoi (Rua do Jardim), a striking pink rococo palace a short stroll from the village square, is an architectural gem surrounded by gardens with lakes and fountains.

Must eat – The Old Coach House at the Monte do Casal (Cerro do Lobo, tel. ) serves gourmet food. The 18th-century building comes complete with log fires and live guitar music, and dinner here is always a treat.

Quinta do Lago

A short drive from the centre of Faro is the upmarket district of Quinta do Lago. With its elegant detached villas and manicured lawns, it’s one of the city’s most desirable neighbourhoods.

Sleep soundly – The golfer’s favourite, Hotel Quinta do Lago (Almancil, tel. , quintadolagohotel.com, rooms from €182) overlooks the beautiful Ria Formosa estuary and is within easy reach of golf courses, beaches, restaurants and bars. The Pinus Ria Hotel (Valverde, Quinta do Lago, tel. , pinusriaresort.com, rooms from €104) also comes highly recommended.

Culture vultures – Cool off with a bracing 150-minute boat trip around the bird sanctuaries and salt ponds of the Ilha Deserta islands off Faro’s coast. Four boats depart each day (isla-deserta.com).

Must eat – Overlooking Ria Formosa Natural Park, the Casa do Lago (Avenida Ayrton Senna, tel. ) specialises in shellfish. The most sought-after seat on the Algarve is at Restaurant Gigi (Praia da Quinta do Lago, tel. ) where fresh fish is the order of the day.

Dance the night away – Boasting expensive tropical cocktails and exotic Japanese cuisine, The TClube (Buganvilia Plaza) is where the jet-set gather to watch the sun go down.

Compiled by Stuart Gallacher