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Switzerland : Geneva - October 2007

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Nestled between the Jura and the Alps, Geneva is an international crossroads, a bustling business centre and the home of many humanitarian causes. But it’s also a lively metropolis that offers some of the best food in the world, a glamorous club scene and top-class shopping. Lou McMullen goes exploring

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

Pâquis

Pâquis is teeming with hip boho bars and the best ethnic shops and restaurants.

Sleep soundly – A short walk from the station is the functional but pleasant Hôtel Moderne (1 Rue de Berne, tel. , hotelmoderne.ch, rooms from €130/CHF 210), a comfortable budget option.

Must eat – (6 Place de la Navigation, tel. ) is fast earning a reputation as one of the best places in town for high quality Indian food. For tasty Lebanese fare, wine and beer, try La Caravane Passe (11 Rue Dr. Alfred-Vincent, tel. ). Ask for a mezze – it’s the ideal way to try a little of everything.

Must drink – Art’s Café (17 Rue de Pâquis) typifies Pâquis’ chilled-out atmosphere – comfy armchairs and sofas you’ll have trouble getting out of, casual but friendly service and reasonable prices.

Dance the night away – Take a wander down to the lake for a taste of glamour and extravagance at some of the cities best clubs, such as Java Club (19 Quai du Mont Blanc), Platinium Glam Club (18 Quai du Seujet) and Z Cube (20 Quai du Seujet). A word of warning though: they’re not for the financially faint-hearted.

Place des Nations

The heart of the humanitarian and international organisations is also the seat of the United Nations.

Sleep soundly – Just a short walk from the square, the Rex Hotel (42-44 Avenue Wendt, tel. , rooms from €120/CHF 200) is a newly renovated and delightful boutique hotel.

Culture vultures – The square’s dominant feature is a gigantic chair, balanced on three legs with a fourth raggedly cut off. This is a stunning visual representation of the devastation wrought by landmines. Once you’ve seen this, go on to take a guided tour of the Palais des Nations (Avenue de la Paix).

Must drink – ( 37 Rue de Vermont) is a perennially popular bar – warm, welcoming and perfect for evening drinks. It also serves free, freshly made popcorn!

Place Molard

Geneva’s left bank is home to the city’s extensive shopping district surrounding this bustling square filled with a flower market, bars and restaurants.

Sleep soundly – (2 Rue de la Rôtisserie, tel. , hotelcentral.ch, rooms from €85/CHF 140) is a charming family-run establishment that’s extraordinarily good value for money, especially considering its location.

Must eat – (7 Place du Molard, tel. ) is a popular Italian with an extensive wine list that won’t break the bank.

Shop til you drop – For top-class retail therapy, wander out of the square on either side and you’ll discover designer boutiques and jewellery shops aplenty. A good starting point is the Confédération Centre (8 Rue de la Confédération), which is home to exclusive stores, bars, restaurants and even a cinema.

Vieille Ville

Walk through the winding, cobbled back streets of the old town and admire the architecture before wining and dining.

Culture vultures – Check out Geneva’s oldest home, the Maison Tavel, (6 Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre), a museum named after the noble family who lived there in the 14th century. Geneva is often referred to as Calvin’s city. The life and times of the famous preacher are documented at the Internation Museum of the Reformation (Maison Mallet, 4 Rue du Cloître), which charts the events that led to and followed the break with the Roman Catholic church in the 16th century.

Must eat – Housed in a 15th-century stone building at Geneva’s former armoury, Les Armures (1 Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre, tel. ) is one of the best places to sample Swiss specialities such as raclette and fondue.

Compiled by Lou McMullen