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Portugal : Lisbon - October 2007

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

Home of fado music and Nobel prize-winning author José Saramago, Lisbon has also become a mecca for clubbers, and is full of futuristic buildings and shabby-chic eateries. Rebuilt after a terrible earthquake in 1755, it has a wealth of Baroque palaces, churches and public buildings. Chris Graeme lifts the lid on a cultural melting pot of tastes, sights and sounds

Getting around

Lisbon Airport

Bus: The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm and goes to the city centre, finishing at Cais do Sodré. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought onboard.
Taxi: It’s about a 20 minute taxi ride to the city centre. The fare costs approximately €15, with an extra charge for luggage in the boot. Prices increase by 20% at night and on weekends and bank holidays.
Tourist information: The Lisboa Welcome Centre is located at Praça do Comércio, on the corner of Rua do Arsenal (tel. , www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).

Santa Clara/Alfama

Lisbon’s historical quarter, on one of its seven hills offers what may be the city’s most stunning views.

Sleep soundly – The Albergaria Senhora do Monte (39 Calçada do Monte, tel. , rooms from €60) is an atmospheric hotel that boasts breathtaking vistas, just like something out of E.M. Forster’s A Room with a View.

Culture vultures – The monastery of São Vicente de Fora (Calçada de São Vicente) houses a museum detailing the lives of Lisbon’s bishops and patriarchs, a stunning sacristy, ancient relics and the House of Braganza tombs.

Must eat – Cantina Baldracca (1 Rua das Farinhas, tel. ) serves hearty pasta dishes for only €5! By the way, baldracca means ‘slut’ in Portuguese!

Must drink – The Moroccan-themed Caxin Bar (22 Rua Costa do Castelo) is the perfect place to relax with an exotic tea.

Shop til you drop – Early birds get the worm at the Feira de Ladra (Campo de Santa Clara), a bric-a-brac market held on Saturday mornings. Head here for antiques, china, DVDs and CDs.

Docas waterfront

A stone’s throw from the river Tagus, Docas (the docks) is packed with seafood restaurants.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Lisboa Tejo (2 Rua dos Condes de Monsanto, tel. , evidenciahoteis.com, rooms from €120) is distinctively designed with plain but adequate rooms and enjoys a fantastic location.

Culture vultures – Formerly the Royal Arsenal, the Military Museum (Largo do Museu de Artilharia) houses one of best artillery collections in the world.

Must eat – Las Brasitas (Doca de Santa Amaro, tel. ) is an excellent Latin restaurant with great Argentinean steaks.

Must drink – You’ll find several cocktail bars under one roof at Musicais (Jardim do Tabaco, Avenida Infante Henrique). Head here for live music and karaoke right on the river.

Dance the night away – As the name suggests, Fama (86 Rua das Fontaínhas) is a magnet for local soap and TV stars who sometimes even serve the drinks.

Largo de Camões/ Baixa Chiado

This downtown district is a mixture of late 18th-century churches and smart outdoor cafés.

Sleep soundly – Stay at the Duas Nacões Residence (41 Rua da Vitória, tel. , duasnacoes.com, rooms from €65),and you’ll be right in the thick of the action.

Culture vultures – The Museu do Chiado (4 Rua Serpa Pinto) is one of the three contemporary art museums in Lisbon. It houses Portuguese art, from romanticism to realism.

Must drink – Kitsch cocktail bar Pavilhao Chinese (5 Rua Dom Pedro) is packed with Napoleonic and World War I memorabilia.

Shop til you drop – Vista Alegre (20-23 Largo do Chiado) sells fine porcelain and objects d’art at reasonable prices.

Castelo de São Jorge

The ancient neighbourhood Castelo de São Jorge’s winding streets still retain a flavour of the city’s Moorish past.

Sleep soundly – Pensao Ninho das Aguias (74 Rua Costa do Castelo, Castelo, tel. , rooms from €65), is a modest hotel that commands imposing views of the city’s squares.

Culture vultures – St Jorge’s Castle (Rua de Chao de Freira) dates from Roman and Moorish times.

Must eat – St Jorge’s Castle (Rua de Chao de Freira) dates from Roman and Moorish times.

Must drink – Hear reggae and hip-hop in a stylish Renaissance setting at Ultima Se (1 Travessa do Almargem).

Compiled by Chris Graeme