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France : Marseille - October 2007

Country Code: Dial for France

October in Marseille is lively as the onset of autumn is marked with a burst of civic vitality. And with everything from the Rugby World Cup to the Marseille-Cassis half marathon taking place this month, the pace of life in this seaside city is set to quicken. Neville Walker tries to keep up

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

Vieux Port

Gentle autumn sunshine makes the Vieux Port’s café terraces irresistible, and the harbour remains lively long after the sun sets.

Sleep soundly – Hôtel Alizé (35 Quai des Belges, tel. , alize-hotel.com, rooms from €73) is centrally located and has pretty, Provençal-style rooms overlooking the port. The New Hotel of Marseille (71 Boulevard Charles Livon, tel. , new-hotel.com, rooms from €215) is luxurious and modern with an outdoor pool and terrace.

Culture vultures – The ancient abbey of St Victor (3 Rue de l’Abbaye) is the atmospheric setting for classical concerts throughout the autumn, while the elegant, art deco Opéra (2 Rue Molière) stages Madame Butterfly on 23, 25, 28 and 30 October.

Must eat – Latino spice meets Provençal tradition on the north side of the Vieux Port at 6 Quai des Épices (6 Quai du Port, tel. ), while bouillabaisse and other classics are reinvented at La Maison Blanche (Tonic Hotel, 43 Quai des Belges, tel. ).

Must drink – The classy Le Pelle Mêle (8 Place aux Huiles) and the legendary pre-war cabaret venue La Caravelle (34 Quai du Port) both play host to this month’s jazz festival Jazz sur la Ville.

Shop til you drop – La Maison du Pastis (108 Quai du Port) is an Aladdin’s cave of alcohol, with all the absinthe, raki and ouzo you could possibly want.

Les Docks & Belle de Mai

Gritty and industrial, the north of Marseille is the focus of ambitious urban regeneration schemes that are changing the face of the city.

Sleep soundly – Hôtel Vertigo (42 Rue des Petites Maries, tel. , hotelvertigo.fr, rooms from €19.90) is a newly opened budget hotel and hostel close to the Gare Saint Charles. It offers smart but simple double rooms, cabanons (cabins) in the courtyard and cheerful dormitories.

Culture vultures – A former tobacco factory, La Friche La Belle de Mai (41 Rue Jobin) has been re-invented as one of Marseille’s most vibrant cultural centres, with more than 500 events held annually.

Must eat – As industrial as the arts centre it serves, Les Grandes Tables de la Friche (41 Rue Jobin, tel. ) is open from morning until late. It serves up elaborately themed menus as well as light, simple food.

Dance the night away – World music takes over the Les Docks des Suds complex for the Fiesta des Suds from the 19–31 October.

Castellane and the Rond Point du Prado

Avenue du Prado runs from Place Castellane to the gates of the Stade Vélodrome – home to Olympique de Marseille and the venue for two of the Rugby World Cup quarter final matches. From there, the road leads to the coast and the Hippodrome Borély racecourse.

Culture vultures – Check out the Lire en Fête literary festival that takes place in the Parc Chanot from the 20–21 October. Otherwise, visit the city’s most iconic modern building, Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation (280 Boulevard Michelet). Be sure to take the lift to the beautiful rooftop sports area.

Must eat – Head to Au Gouleyant (8– 10 Rue Dragon, tel. ) for quirky décor and a menu of classic comfort food, from Lyonnais andouillettes to confit duck.

Must drink – Keep up with the rugby scores over a Guinness at O’Bradys (378 Avenue de Mazargues), where they’re screening the Marseille matches on 6 and 7 October.

Compiled by Neville Walker