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Austria : Vienna - October 2007

Country Code: Dial for Austria

Traditionally, Vienna’s main draws were old world charm, baroque architecture, opera and the Musikverein. More recently though, it has morphed into a modern metropolis of art and fashion, with fine dining, exclusive cocktail bars and a vibrant club scene. Maggie Childs discovers a city with a thriving urban culture where the new complements the timeless

Getting around

Vienna International Airport

Bus: A bus will take you to the city centre in 20 minutes, leaving every 30 minutes, with a return fare of €11.
Train: The City Airport Train (CAT) takes 16 minutes to reach the centre and leaves every 30 minutes. Return tickets cost €16. The regular municipal railway SBahn goes every 30 minutes and takes 24 minutes to reach the city centre. Single tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A trip to the city from the airport costs a standard fee of €31.
Tourist information: Vienna Tourist Office is at 38 Untere Augartenstraße and 1 Albertinaplatz (555, www.wien.info).

Mariahilferstrasse – 6th and 7th Districts

The street separates the 6th district, Mariahilf, from the 7th, Neubau. It is one of the longest shopping streets in Europe and home to much of Vienna’s urban culture.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Altstadt (41 Kirchengasse, tel. , altstadt.at, rooms from from €109) is luxurious without being prohibitively pricey. Enjoy freestanding bathtubs in the suites and original art in each room.

Culture vultures – Head to Aux Gazelles (5 Rahlgasse, tel. ) for Moroccan food. There’s also a caviar and oyster bar here, as well as a hammam steam bath in the back. For Asian food, try the renowned Ramien (9 Gumpensdorferstraße, tel. ). It serves what’s been called the best pad Thai in Europe.

Dance the night away – Hear everything from baile funk to break beats at Café Leopold (1 Museumsplatz). Housed inside the Museums Quartier, it’s swiftly become the number one night spot in town.

Shop til you drop – For mainstream fashion, go straight to the seemingly endless Mariahilferstrasse, just off the main road you’ll find large department stores and boutiques stocking Austrian and international designs.

Alsergrund – 9th District

Beginning at the Votivkirche, across from Schottentor, the 9th district is a multifaceted area. There’s plenty of culture here, but it’s also home to many students and has a great nightlife.

Culture vultures – A trip to Vienna would be incomplete without a tribute to the father of psychoanalysis – make time to fit in a visit to the Sigmund Freud Museum (19 Berggasse).

Must eat – A favourite with students, the Stiegl Ambulanz (4 Alserstraße, tel. ) combines food and beer with a modern atmosphere.

Must drink – Stop at Café Stein (6-8 Währingerstrasse) for a late breakfast – it’s served here until 8pm.

Inner City – 1st District

Cathedrals, boutiques and cafés crowd the streets of Vienna’s famous 1st district, at the heart of the city.

Culture vultures – The acclaimed Albertina (1 Albertinaplatz), which sits behind the legendary Vienna State Opera (2 Opernring), exhibits some of the most sought-after collections in the world.

Must eat – Little known amongst visitors, Zum Schwarzen Kameel (5 Bognergasse tel. ) is a favourite amongst locals with cash to spare and excellent taste. The place has its own line of fine foods, a sandwich shop and a wonderful wine cellar.

Must drink – The café in the Palmenhaus (Burggarten) combines both botanical and gastronomic expertise. You can sip anything from local Veltliner to Australian Shiraz under gargantuan palm trees.

Dance the night away – The Moulin Rouge (11 Walfischgasse), a former cabaret like its Parisian namesake, is now a popular club with an exquisite interior.

Shop til you drop – The Kärnterstrasse, and Graben are lined with shops – everything from Swarovski to Louis Vuitton.

Landstraße – 3rd Distriect

This area of the city encompasses some of the city’s most peaceful areas, like the St. Marx Cemetery.

Culture vultures – The 18th-century castle at the Belvedere today houses the Austrian Gallery (27 Prinz-Eugen-Stasse).

Must eat – Steirereck (Stadtpark, tel. ) was twice named the best restaurant in Vienna.

Must drink – No trip to Vienna is complete without a swift foray into the jazz scene. Birdland (1 Am Stadtpark) plays host to both internationally renowned artists and local favourites.

Compiled by Maggie Childs