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Spain : Bilbao - November 2007

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Set in the Basque region of Bizkaia, Bilbao is steeped in tradition and culture. The friendly Bilbaínos’ pride in their past and hope for the future is exemplified by the new Guggenheim Modern Art Museum. Maria Welch takes an autumnal stroll through its leafy streets and explains why November’s the perfect time to visit

Getting around

Bilbao Airport, designed by Santiago Calatrava, is worth visiting for its architecture alone, and is situated 10km from the city centre.

Bus: The yellow BizkaiBus runs every 30 minutes from arrivals between 5.25am and 9.55pm. The trip into town takes 20 minutes and costs €1,10.
Taxi: Expect to pay about €18 for the journey to the city centre, which takes 15 minutes.
Tourist information: Tourist information: The main office is at 11 Plaza Ensanche (tel. , bilbao.net).

Casco Viejo

The social heart and soul of Bilbao. Take a wander through its warren-like streets and sample a slice of authentic Basque life.

Culture vultures – The Cathedral dedicated to Spain’s patron saint St James, Catedral de Santiago (1 Plaza Santiago), stands in the centre of Casco Viejo with its elegant spire rising above the maze of narrow streets. Its small but enchanting cloister is worth a visit, too.

Must eat – Many Balbaníos live in this area and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. Artagan (125 Avenida de Zumalacárregui, tel. ) serves up a good selection of grilled meats and fish and is very reasonably priced. Begoña (Virgen de Begoña, tel. ) is a traditional restaurant that does fantastic seafood but is slightly more expensive.

Must drink – You’re spoilt for choice here, but K2 (10 Somera) is particularly interesting as it hosts exhibitions from different artists every month.

Shop til you drop – The shoe store Calzados La Palma (3 Correo) may have been trading in the old quarter for a very long time, but its styles are anything but traditional. The store has famous designer brands plus a few exclusive styles you won’t find anywhere else.

Gran Vía

Gran Vía is the city’s tree-lined thoroughfare, full of elegant architecture and up-market stores.

Sleep soundly – Hotel López de Haro (2-4 Obispo Orueta, tel. , hotellopezdeharo.com, rooms from €185) is a five-star hotel that exudes luxury. It’s well worth splashing out on a double room here.

Culture vultures – Museo de Bellas Artes (2 Plaza del Museo) may not be as famous as its illustrious neighbour The Guggenheim, but it’s well worth a visit. An €11 ticket will give you entry to both museums. From Plaza del Museo, take a riverside walk to The Guggenheim (2 Abandoibarra Et). For film fans there’s also the International Short Film and Documentary Festival (37 Colón de Larreátegui) which runs from the 26 November until the end of the month.

Shop til you drop – Spain’s most famous department store, El Corte Inglés (7-9 Gran Vía), has a branch on Gran Vía. You can even book your next trip with the in-store travel agent.

San Mamés

At the far end of Gran Vía, the district of San Mamés is home to the city’s other cathedral, the Athletic Bilbao football stadium.

Culture vultures – In November, Athletic Bilbao play Deportivo La Coruna at Estadio de Fútbol de San Mamés (23 Alameda Mazarredo). If football’s not your thing, try Almonedas (468 Bilbao Exhibition Centre, B. Postale), an antiques auction held each November.

Dance the night away – Café Indie (34 Calle Doctor Areilza) is more chic than its name might suggest. There are comfortable sofas downstairs and a bar and dance floor on the upper level.

Compiled by Maria Welch