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Italy : Florence - November 2007

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Enchanting, ethereal and eminently engaging, Florence is a multi-layered city. Scratch the surface and there’s plenty to keep the first-time visitor busy. Dig into the city itself and you’ll find a rich local heritage. With gallery queues at a minimum in November and pre-Christmas shopping galore, Tristan Rutherford offers his insider’s guide

Getting around

Florence Peretola

Bus: Vola In Bus departs from outside the airport to Stazione Santa Maria Novella every 30 minutes. Tickets cost €4,50.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport into the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main tourist information point is at 29r Borgo Santa Croce. There is also one in the piazza outside Santa Maria Novella Stazione and at 1r Via Cavour (www.firenzeturismo.it).

Piazza dei Ciompi

In the centre of town but far off the beaten track, the area around Piazza dei Ciompi offers an insight into modern Florentine life, from local dining to daily street markets.

Must eat – Stop by Darvish Café (76r Via Ghibellina, ) between 4pm and 7pm to take advantage of twofor-one Middle Eastern bites. Ruth’s (2A Via Farini, ), next door to the synagogue, has a cosy family atmosphere and an all-kosher menu.

Must drink – Sip an apertivo at Loggia del pesce (Piazza dei Ciompi), a cool hang-out located under the remains of the city’s 17th-century fish market.

Shop til you drop – Selling everything from second-hand shoes to genuine antique furniture, the Piazza dei Ciompi Market is packed with rich finds. For on-trend pieces and edgy brands, head to Societe Anonyme (3F Via Niccolini).

Piazza San Marco

A student-filled quarter brimming with energy, this area to the north of the city centre is filled with cafés and restaurants and teems with nightlife.

Sleep soundly – Snuggle up under a canopied bed at the Johanna I (14 Via Bonifacio Lupi, tel. , johanna. it, rooms from €95) bed & breakfast.

Culture vultures – Although many of Florence’s museums are dedicated to its Renaissance past, you can learn more about its Etruscan origins at the Museo Archeologico (38 Via della Colonna). The botanical gardens at the Giardino dei Semplici (3 Via Micheli) are perfect on a sun-dappled afternoon.

Must eat – Despite only serving lunch from Monday to Saturday and taking no reservations, Trattoria Mario (2r Via Rosina, tel. ) has been in business for over 50 years. Stop at Da Garibaldi (38r Piazza del Mercato Centrale, tel. ) for one of its divine pizzas or pasta with truffles.

Dance the night away – Dine and dance to South American samba at Maracana (4 Via Faenza).

Ognissanti

The blocks between Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza d’Ognissanti are a treasure-trove of hidden delights.

Culture vultures – Weird and wonderful, the Natural History Museum’s Museo La Specola (17 Via Romana) is crammed with everything from bizarre waxworks to graphic insect displays. For those with more classical tastes, the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Piazza dei Pitti) is located on the top floor of the elegant Palazzo Pitti.

Must eat – Taste traditional Tuscan fare on the terrace of Osteria Santo Spirito (16 Piazza Santo Spirito, ), or indulge in a Michelin-starred meal at Onice (78 Viale Michelangelo, tel. ).

Must drink – Grab a glass of wine and browse the bookshelves at the eclectic La Cité (20 Borgo San Frediano), a bookshop, café and exhibition centre rolled into one.

Dance the night away – Foodies should head straight to Le Stanze (50-52r Borgo Ognissanti), which sells eccentric items like paper placemats printed with Italian streetmaps.

Santo Spirito

Hugging the south side of the River Arno, classy Santo Spirito feels miles away from the clamour of the city’s main tourist attractions.

Must eat – Taste traditional Tuscan fare on the terrace of Osteria Santo Spirito (16 Piazza Santo Spirito, ), or indulge in a Michelin-starred meal at Onice (78 Viale Michelangelo, tel. ).

Must drink – Grab a glass of wine and browse the bookshelves at the eclectic La Cité (20 Borgo San Frediano), a bookshop, café and exhibition centre rolled into one.

Dance the night away – Listen to live music and daring DJs at Dolce Vita (Piazza del Carmine), a wine bar with a wild side.

Compiled by Tristan Rutherford