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Spain : Madrid - November 2007

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Spain’s centrally located capital is a melting pot for migrants from the regions while immigrants from all over the world are continually adding to the cultural mix. But ever more inventive, international influences happily haven’t squeezed out the city’s down-to-earth madrileño charm, as Sarah Morris reports

Getting around

Barajas Airport

Bus: There are regular buses from the airport to Avenida de America (which connects with Metro lines 4, 6, 7 and 9) until 11pm. The journey takes between 30 minutes and an hour (emtmadrid.es).
Train: Terminal 4 is covered by line 8 of the metro system. The journey to the city centre takes about 45 minutes and a single ticket costs €2.
Taxi: The journey to the centre takes around 20 minutes and costs around €28 (which includes the taxis’ airport charge of €5,25).
Tourist information: The main office is at 27 Plaza Mayor (tel. , www.turismomadrid.es) but there’s also an information stand at Terminal 1.

Centro & Huertas

Cobbles, squares and evocative buildings create a neighbourhood feel in the heart (and soul) of Madrid.

Sleep soundly – The palatial Meliá Reina Victoria (14 Plaza de Santa Ana, tel. , solmelia.com, rooms from €230) has been lavishly revamped. The charming Santander (1 Calle de Echegaray, tel. , hotelsantandermadrid.com, rooms from €80) is a reliable old-timer.

Culture vultures – The 17th-century Plaza Mayor is an obligatory stop, with its sensuous murals, cosy arcades and equestrian statue of Phillip III.

Must eat – The ivy-clad courtyard at Arrocería Gala (22 Calle Moratín, tel. ) is a soothing setting in which to enjoy its rice specialities. For memorable tapas, check out La Trucha (6 Calle Núñez de Arce, tel. ).

Must drink – La Venencia (7 Calle de Echegaray) – all shelves of dusty bottles, peeling custard walls and dim lighting – is a classic drinking den in these parts.

Dance the night away – For hip-swaying jazz and blues try Populart (22 Calle Huertas), which hosts world-class live acts.

Shop til you drop – Belloso (23 Calle Mayor) is the place to go for religious cherubs, Virgin Marys and the like.

Chueca

This vibrant area is popular with the gay community and has a superb choice of shops, restaurants and bars.

Sleep soundly – Enjoy 19th-century character coupled with modern style at Hostal San Lorenzo (8 Calle Clavel, tel. , hostal-lorenzo.com, rooms from €65).

Culture vultures – The Museo Municipal (78 Calle de Fuencarral) details Madrid’s history .

Must eat – Stylish La Piazzetta (8 Plaza Chueca, tel. ) serves fantastic pizza and pasta.

Must drink – An old-fashioned corner bar with carafe-loads of atmosphere, Angel Sierra tavern (11 Calle Gravina) is the local meeting and greeting place.

Dance the night away – Attracting a stylish gay and heterosexual crowd, El Clandestino (34 Calle del Barquillo) has a friendly atmosphere.

Shop til you drop – Indulge your tastebuds with a heavenly chocolate bar at Xocoa (3 Calle Gravina).

Paseo del Prado & El Retiro

Experience a slice of culture (or three) and serious green spaces in this must-see city barrio.

Sleep soundly – Enjoy old-world décor at Hostal Residencia Principado (7 Calle Zorrilla, tel. , rooms from €50), which is well placed for the museums.

Culture vultures – Where to start in this artistic triangle? It’s all here: the whopping Museo del Prado (Paseo del Prado), the Thyssen-Bornemisza (8 Paseo del Prado) collection and the contemporary Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (52 Calle Santa Isabel).

Must eat – Order a plate of delicious patatas arrugadas con mojo (wrinkled potatoes with spicy sauce) at La Tapería (22 Paseo del Prado, tel. ).

Must drink – Even if you are glazed over from an art overdose, visit the ThyssenBornemisza bar and café, which has a stylish outside terrace.

Dance the night away – One of the hottest clubs in town, Babylon (11 Calle de Recoletos) guarantees an ear-throbbing work-out.

Salamanca

The city’s swankiest area is full of smart restaurants and shops that attract a chi-chi crowd with cash to flash.

Sleep soundly – Splash out at the gorgeous Hotel Villa Magna (22 Paseo de la Castellana, tel. , madrid. hyatt.com, rooms from €265).

Culture vultures – The underrated Museo Arqueológico Nacional (13 Calle de Serrano) has a superb collection of artefacts, ranging from prehistoric times to the Moorish era.

Must eat – Head to Café Saigón (4 Calle María de Molina, tel. ) for dishes like lemongrass chicken.

Compiled by Sarah Morris