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France : Nice - November 2007

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With bargain hotel prices and plenty of space to amble along the seafront’s Promenade des Anglais, November is one of the best times to visit Nice, especially now that the new tramway is open. Kathryn Tomasetti shares her selection of the best cassoulet, clubs and chocolates in town

Getting around

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 7km west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.99 departs for Gare Routière, the central bus station just outside the old town, every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €4 and the journey takes about 30 minutes.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs around €30.
Tourist information: The main office is at 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel. , nicetourisme.biz).

Old Town

Linger lazily in the Italian-influenced old town among art galleries, churches and the restaurant-filled Cours Saleya.

Must eat – For huge, heavenly plates of pasta, visit La Voglia (2 Rue St François de Paule, tel. ). Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early to avoid the queue outside. November is the start of truffle season, the perfect time to sample Bruno Clément’s exquisite creations at Terres des Truffes (11 Rue St François de Paule, tel. ).

Must drink – If you time your visit around the release of the Beaujolais Nouveau, on 15 November then you must sample the chilled red for free at Cave Caprioglio (16 Rue de la Préfecture), the old town’s best vintner.

Dance the night away – Live DJs, a plush interior and killer cocktails make tiny La Trappa (2 Rue Jules Gilly) an excellent late-night hideaway.

Shop til you drop – Pick up a selection of Biot’s famous blown glassware at Terres de Biot (19 Rue Marché), or head to L’Atelier des Cigales (13 Rue du Collet) for hand-painted ceramics from just €10.

Musiciens

Calm and classy, this bourgeois neighbourhood north of the boulevard Victor Hugo has loads of charm.

Sleep soundly – Enjoy the Riviera’s winter sun in the Villa Victoria’s (33 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. , villa-victoria. com, rooms from €90) south-facing botanical gardens.

Culture vultures – Stop into the free Théâtre de la Photographie et de l’Image (27 Boulevard Dubouchage) for Charles Nègre’s 19th-century black and white snapshots of Nice from yesteryear.

Must eat – Don Camillo’s former chef Stefane Viano has recently opened his own super-chic Stefane Viano Restaurant (26 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. ). Crustacean junkies can crack a crab at Bistrot les Viviers (22 Rue Alphonse Karr, tel. ).

Dance the night away – Buzzing Odace (29 Rue Alphonse Karr) has big-name DJs and big weekend crowds.

Riquier

Still a working suburb, Riquier is a locals-only den of inexpensive restaurants, bars and one-off stores

Sleep soundly – Although it’s a bus ride from the city centre, many of Villa Saint-Exupéry’s (22 Avenue Gravier, tel. , vsaint.com, rooms from €58) rooms have sea views and it’s rated as one of the best bargains around.

Culture vultures – Prehistory buffs should check out the bones from local digs at the Musée Terra Amata (25 Boulevard Carnot). » Must eat Local favourite Pappagallo (18 Rue François Guisol, tel. ) has dustbin-lid size pizzas and a char-grilled selection of meats.

Must drink – Sip pressions of Paulaner beer in the friendly ThyJeffs (7 Rue Emmanuel Philibert), which overlooks the Place du Pins square.

Shop til you drop – Chocolatier Lac (18 Rue Barla) can wrap up delicate creations for the journey home.

Compiled by Kathryn Tomasetti